Dodge Ram

You Need A Special Tool, Which You Can Buy At AutoZone Or Something. You Open The Tail Gate, Then You Use The Special Tool To Unscrew the Screws And The Taillight Comes out.

A 2001 Ram does not have EGR.

Engine overheats When a car or truck overheats idling, in town, on the highway, while towing, etc. it is important to find out the reason to prevent engine damage. First, with the engine cold, make sure the radiator is full of coolant; if it is low, fill it and keep the radiator cap off while the engine idles to insure all air is bled out of the system ( air trapped in the system can cause overheating also). Check the coolant level daily; if the coolant goes down without visible leaks, it may be a head gasket starting to leak which will also cause the heater to blow cold air due to the lack of available coolant. If the coolant stays full, but the car continues to overheat, the next step is to replace the thermostat in the engine and flush the cooling system if that has not been done over the last few years.Buy a thermostat at a parts store and a PRESTONE flush kit which has excellent directions on the package.After completing these steps and the vehicle still overheats, have your cooling fan sensor/switch ( if equipped)checked out to insure it is coming on. Water pumps are seldom the cause as they are mechanical and will continue to work until their bearings give out. Finally, the radiator itself is often the problem as it tends to build up corrosion internally which prevents it from transfering engine heat to the coolant. Remove it and have it 're-cored'. One of these steps will solve the problem.

Changing the heater core requires complete removal of the dash panel and plenum box. To do this you have to remove the steering wheel, steering column, evacuate and recharge the refrigerant system and drain the radiator. I would only consider changing the heater core if it is physically leaking into the passenger compartment. If the problem is heat transfer to the HVAC system only, the problem is more likely with the blend doors. Check heatertreater.net for pictures and diagnostic information.

there are plenty of "How-To's" for home made CAI's (Cold Air Intake) at Neon enthusiast forums (NeonTuners.com and Neons.org are IMO the best examples)

140hp the ka24de has 155hp stock

"remember if you change gear ratio in transfer, you will have to match gear ratios in front and rear differentials" The above answer is incorrect. I Front & rear Axle (differential) must be the same as each other, but the gearing in the transfer case can be any gear ratio you would like. All transfer cases are 1:1 ratio when in "high" range. While in low, the gearing is usually between the 2:1 (NP203, NP205, Dana 20) to 2.7:1 (Dana 18, NP231, Dana 300, NP241, NP208) range, while custom transfercases (Atlas/Stak) come in 3:1 all the way up to 5:1 range. The initial question doesn't make sense/is contradictory to me. If you are talking about lowering your RPMs while driving on the street or at Highway speeds, your transfer case is not the answer (it should be 1:1). You either will need to change the transmission to one with an Overdrive (.8/.75:1), or change the gearing in your differentials. When changing the gearing in your differentials, the higher the number the lower the gearing (more power, but higher RPMs at freeway speed), the lower the number the higher the gearing (less power, but lower RPMs at freeway speed). Now if your talking about a better gear ratio while offroading, that is the other end of the spectrum. You would want lower gears (higher numbers) in your differentials or swap out your NP203 for a lowered geared transfercase.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

I think you will find it does not have one. But you can easily find out by going to an auto parts store and asking for one. If they sell you one then buy a Purolator as it comes with complete instructions.

The main filter is on the side of the engine. There is also a screen/filter on the pickup tube in the fuel tank.

A 2002 Ram transfer case uses ATF+4 transmission fluid.

color codes for dodge ram 4 door speakers?

All of the dodge 4.7 litre engines are made by Mercedes

First find the topmost large radiator hose that connects to the top of the block, where this hose connects you will see two bolts across from each other, remove them with a socket and long extension, once they are out and you move this piece the hose is clamped to you will see the thermostat, always replace the gasket too.

I have a 2011 Dodge Ram With Camper Shell.

The 3rd brake light will wok but it never goes completely out.

The 3rd light remains on very dim.

Check voltage with brake pedal NOT pressed and you have around 9 or 10 Volts remaining on thus connection point.

Any idea why and how to wire the 3rd brake light on this vehicle./

== WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF) BEFORE SERVICING THE FUEL PUMP MODULE, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED. # Drain and remove fuel tank. # The plastic fuel pump module locknut is threaded onto fuel tank. Remove locknut. The fuel pump module will spring up when locknut is removed. # Remove module from fuel tank. == CAUTION: Whenever the fuel pump module is serviced, the rubber gasket must be replaced. # Using a new gasket, position fuel pump module into opening in fuel tank. # Position locknut over top of fuel pump module. Install locknut finger tight. # Rotate module until positioned as when removed. This step must be performed to prevent float from contacting side of fuel tank. Be sure fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator is pointed to drivers side of vehicle. # Install locknut. # Tighten locknut to 24 - 44 N·m (18 - 32 ft. lbs.) torque. # Install fuel tank.

There is, I think, a TSB on this condition that says the temp control door inside the dash air box warps over time and causes it. Common problem. The culprit is a design flaw in the temp controller, admitted by a GM engineer I spoke with. The sensor gets "confused" with the temperature in the car and decides the driver needs heat. The system diverts a flap that routes warm air and AC to the driver, while the passenger side gets only AC. If you can stand it, the system usually adjusts correctly after several minutes. There are several reset sequences floating around the net, such as pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery, leaving doors open, etc.. None of these worked for me. I have found that avoiding the "auto" setting by turning on the system by first hitting the outside air button, then the ac, then adjusting the fan brings the system up correctly, especially on a hot day (thank goodness). Make sure the driver temp is turned to 60

IAT's are located primarily connected through the air box, where you aor filter is, by the throttle body, by the intake manifold and is a 2 wire connector.

Hello, Jamison here, The first thing, The temp sender or sensor, Have NOTHING to do with the temperature of the motor or the heater.This part only tells you the current condition of the MOTOR. If your heater is not heating up, It is likely either low on water (in the radiator) or The heater core is stopped up,,,,,,,If the engine takes A long time to heat up it is likely either low on water (in the radiator) or your thermostat is stuck open. ---------------------------------------------------- ^^^ The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor DOES have to do with the Motor. The PCM uses this reading to raise idle rpms, change air/fuel mixtures, or turn the fan on/off if the engine is to hot among other functions. However what the questions describes is most likely a bad thermostat. If a thermostat goes bad it has a fail safe to stay OPEN and thus lead to your extended warm up periods and low engine temperatures. This is an easy DIY operation

No, the oils are held separate by a pair of seals.

No, the oils are held separate by a pair of seals.

To be certain I would need to see, but it could either be in a fail safe mode, where it will not shift due to some internal problem. It could have also locked up, on a standard it could be out of fluid in the clutch resivior.

Or... The question as stated leaves too many variables to be answered with any accuracy. What year of vehicle? What model of 'Dodge'? Which Transmission? Heck, is it automatic or manual? If it's a late '90's/early 2000's Durango/Dakota, the transmission bands may need to be adjusted. If it's a 1974 Dart, maybe just a fluid/filter replacement. If it's a 2011 Challenger, well, you're lucky because it's under warranty. Please be a little more specific. We work on this site to help people save money by giving tips to help them do it themselves, but we can't give accurate answers without some basic information about what we're trying to fix.

I don't think that anyone actually knows as I have read over 100 "expert" responces and they never actually tell you the fuse number. They start talking about checking everything but the fuse.

No ford and Chevy stud patteren is different.

a 1992 Dakota does not have a Central Timer Module.

The 2011 RAM 1500 is 17 ft. 5 in. (209 in.) long.