Emissions and Exhaust Systems

Exhaust

legally-none

practically-all except the PVC valve.

i would hook timing up to constant vacuum. ste base timing about 10 degrees and gofrom there.

I'm sorry, but NEVER hook the vacuum advance to direct vacuum. Always use a ported source, (above the throttle blades) If you have the vacuum hooked to a direct source you build an instant bog into the car from a stop. I fix maybe 2/3 cars a week in my Emission Shop with this problem. Been doing it for 23 years. They'll usually run with high HC at the Smog check, too.

because of low battery voltage

White smoke usually means that anti freeze has entered the combustion chamber most likely through a hole in the head gasket and cannot be burned but is vaporized. too much and the engine will not run, which is good since running it in that condition would do more damage than just a blown head gasket.

It means that you need a valve job. The black liquid is oil from your engine. Your engine is not making a tight enough seal for combustion therefore it sucks in oil and uses it in the combustion cycle. Be sure and check your oil level as im sure that your truck is burnin the hell out of some oil lol

blue smoke comes out the tail pipe when your engine is burning oil caused by a worn engine.

Black exhaust smoke indicates a fuel-rich condition; not all of the fuel is being burnt.

The first thing to check is the air filter. If the engine can not pull enough air through a dirty filter, all of the fuel will not burn. This will also cause stuttering, and stalling. if the filter has not been replaced in 10,000 miles, it will be pretty dirty, especially if you take your Jeep off-road.

Other possible causes:

# Dirty fuel injectors, # Worn spark plugs, # carbon build-up from long-term excessive dignity. Let me explain the last one: I you drive in a very sedate manner for several thousands of miles, carbon can build up on the cylinder walls and on the valves. A sudden, full-throttle acceleration will burn the carbon build-up, causing black smoke and stuttering. The cure is to get on an appropriate road, and do three to five full-throttle runs to about 60 MPH. This burns the carbon out, and restores performance. A CAUTION: Do not try this with a dirty air filter. It will only make the problem worse.

Good Luck!

Most likely the valve seals. They allow oil to seep into the cylinder(s) when idling. After you accelerate the oil is burned and the smoke stops being visible. Chrysler 3.0 engines are famous for this, watch some Chrysler mini-vans at the stoplights.

Having a CRACKED head will make WHITE smoke IF U didn't have the head MAGNA-FLUXED. White smoke is steam. if it doesnt quit after awhile Id say that there is a leak in the head gasket between one of the coolent passages and a cylinder. this will let water into the cylinder which is turned into steam during combustion then exausted out the tail pipe. just to clear up something: Magnafluxing will not prevent cracks, it is a process used to detect them. This should be done by a machine shop. the new gasket is obviously faulty, or the head is cracked. I would guess that its the gasket. The head may not have been torqued properly. Follow a Chiltons or similar repair manual very closely when installing a head. If this is immediately after getting it fixed, you have to give it some time to work all that coolant out of the exhaust system. If it still is blowing steam after a few miles, then probably you have another blown headgasket or a cracked head that should have been addressed on the first head gasket replacement. Some shops have been known to not verify that the head isn't warped or cracked, and if it is, the new head gasket will blow immediately. If you had it at a shop the first time, take it back to them and have them fix it right this time - remember, though, not all mechanics are created equal and if they don't make things right you should take this to a better shop. A good shop will be embarassed by such a rookie mistake and take care of you. It is also possible that the head is warped (repair by machining) or that the intake gasket is or was also leaking or warped. Warpage typically only occurs if serious overheating occurred or sometimes if the wrong torque sequence was used during installation.

From as low as 100:1 at idle to near 15:1 under load.

From as low as 100:1 at idle to near 15:1 under load.

puge solinoid is usually the problem.

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Nitrogen oxides

Your oil is probably leaking.

If the car is old, then it's likely to be scrap!

You would have a strong gas smell. If it's an older car, it may run badly because the charcoal can be sucked into the carberator. The only thing it really does is filter the air from the carb and tank.

At some point coolant was getting into a cylinder. The sweet smell is antifreeze. The hole, probably in a head gasket was small enough that particles in the cooling system plugged it or as the motor heated up the head expanded enough to seal the hole. Doubtful this will last. At some point it should start smoking again. I have had good luck with copper based sealant when the coolant is going out the exhaust. If the radiator is being pressurized by exhaust then this will not help.

It does depend on the engine, but I'd shoot a little higher and say headers will give a good 15-30 hp

3 or 4 hp depending on the engine

2 most obvious signs of exhaust leak are noise and smell of exhaust fumes

It is the relative proportion or ratio of the Energy Input to a system to its output.

The intake valve is always bigger than the exhaust valve because there is more volume going in to the cylinder than coming out.

what is a warm up catalyst below threshold parts look like? and It is for a car mit Elcipes.

Relates to a fuel trim issue

That's a misfire-ah....