Ford Bronco II XL

Oil slow getting to the head

take out the dash drop the steering column there you are. or i read of a guy cut a10 -10 on the firewall and bondo it back.

It could be several things-worst case is your transmission is shot. Have you checked the tranny fluid level? The transmission may just need to be serviced(new filter and fluid, easy fix. Could be the torque converter, tranny bands, or rear end. Have you had any problems with it before? Mine would hesitate when put in R, then kind of clunk into reverse and finally no reverse at all

In a chiltons auto repair manual. You can get at your local library

1. Riveted inside of glove box lid.

2. On 1966 and 1967 on driver side kick pan.

3. on paper tag inside of driver side door jam.

4. Stamped on top of the frame, can be seen on passenger side looking down into the engine compartment.

take off the gas tank and then find a small chain, put the chain inside the gas tank add some gas and shake it for about 2 minutes, drain the gas and repeat if gas was orange or until u get it clean.

1966 to compete with jeeps

no it's not liquid asphalt can be numerous types of asphalt. Asphalts a measured by softening point and viscocities therefore liquid asphalt can turn into a solid . Cut back are cut with a solvent or fuels such as diesel or naptha, cut backs are used in paving.

I suspect you have a ground wire that was not hooked up or is not tight. Remember, The battery is separate from the engine connected by cables, the engine and trans sit on rubber mounts and the engine is connected with rubber hoses. The frame is separate for this reason. This is why grounds and cables are so important. All it takes is one bad connection. I suggest you add a additional ground wire/strap between engine and frame.

Chiltons auto manuals have good diagrams, your oxygen sensor is on your exhaust in front of the catalytic converter.

if it hasthe radio w/the 4 small holes you can get the tools from autozone or bend coat hangers and that will remove the tension on theclips . if it doesn't you will need to disassemble the dash

Yes they have to be wired correctly. All the injectors do not run at the same time. They only work when needed to supply fuel to a cylinder on the compression stroke.

You have to Jack up the car, and reach above the rear end , remove the 2 clips holding the fuel lines and give them a slight twist and pull. This will remove the hoses. Then you will have to remove the hoses and straps and wiring in the trunk, in order to remove the tank.

Look at the bottom of the tranny. If it has a ribbed bottom and 14 bolts it is a Mazda(Toyo Kogyo) 4 or 5 speed. If it has a stamped metal bottom and 12 bolts it is either a Mitsubishi FM-145 or FM-146. If there are no bolts it is Mazda M5od. if it is an automatic it is a A4ld.

I have to suggest the light switch is bad. A simple voltmeter or test light may help you test voltages. I have to suggest the light switch is bad. A simple voltmeter or test light may help you test voltages.

POSSIBLY A LOOSE GROUND WIRE AT LEAST THAT IS WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR ON MINE,GOOD LUCK! The most likely cause on the late 80's Bronco & Ranger for headlight problems is the failure of the Dimmer switch connection. I had to completely replace the connector & switch on my '88 Bronco II to resolve the problem.

yes they will interchange . you should have mo major problems switching them.

According to the manual that I have for my 86 Bronco II, it says this: Removal- Rotate the lock cylinder key to the Lock position. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. For tilt column only, remove the upper extension shroud by squeezing it at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and popping it free of the retaining plate at the 3 o'clock position. Remove the 2 trim shroud halves by removing the 2 attaching screws. Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector. Drill out the break-off head bolts connecting the switch to the lock cylinder housing by using a 1/8 in. (3mm) drill bit. Remove the 2 bolts, using an Ex-3 Easy-out tool or equivalent. Disengage the ignition switch from the actuator pin. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To install- Rotate the ignition key to the RUN position, approximatly 90 degrees clockwise from LOCK. Install the replacement switch by aligning the holes on the switch casting base with the holes in the lock cylinder housing. Note that the replacement switch is provided in the RUN position. Minor movement of the lock cylinder to align the actuator pin with the U-shaped slot in the switch carrier may be required. Install the new break-off head bolts and tighten untilheads shear off (approx. 35-50 in. lbs.). Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery terminal. Check the ignition switch for proper operation in all modes. Install the sterring column trim shrouds.

To disassemble an H&R 865 Plainsman, first ensure the firearm is unloaded and remove any ammunition. Next, remove the grip screw and then gently pull off the grip. After that, unscrew and remove the side plate screws to access the internal components. Carefully lift off the side plate and further disassemble as needed, taking care to note the placement of each part for reassembly. Always consult the manufacturer's manual for specific guidance and safety precautions.

According to my Chilton's Auto Repair Manual :

For a 1988 Ford Festiva ( 1.3 liter / 81 cubic inch four cylinder engine )

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 )

3/16"

Disconnect fuel supply line from tank to fuel reservoir. Put hose end in container and cycle ignition switch. This will tell you the condition of the low pressure pump in tank.

Reconnect hose. Disconnect fuel line supply from high pressure pump on frame at fuel filter, and place end in container. Cycle ignition switch on and off. High pressure pump runs for approx 2-3 seconds with each cycle. You should be able to hear it run and cycle off.

Probably coolant in the oil from a blown head gasket which might also cause excessive steam from the tailpipe and hard starting. The coolant also could get into the oil through a crack in the engine block.

Low of oil or low oil pressure. If the engine is not low of oil then the oil sending unit may be bad or the oil filter may be clogged. The oil pump may also be weak.