Ford Bronco XLT

It is on the left front wheel well. It is a black box approximately 4"x4", and has 3 bolts to bolt it down. The bolts have to be taken out from inside the wheel well.

Generally I would check it every 30k, and change it every 60k. They're not that expensive, and it wouldn't hurt to replace it a little early.

When we fill a cylinder with compressed gas, we do so based on a strict set of guidelines. The cylinder must be the correct type for that gas. It must have a "recent" hydrostatic test date, or in cannot be filled per procedures and codes. It must be filled at a "legit" filling station (with proper equipment) by someone who is trained and knowledgeable in the transfer of compressed gas. The amount of gas that can be put in a cylinder is usually measured in cubic feet at a given pressure. That pressure will not exceed the rated pressure of the cyclinder. (Ambient temperature, or some specified temperature, is assumed.) Calculations can be made as to how much gas is in a cylinder, and they involve the type of gas, the temperature of the gas, the pressure of the gas, and the volume into which it is compressed. Cylinders come in a wide range of sizes (volumes) as well as a range of rated pressures, and the vessels are stamped with those ratings, as well as the date of the hydrostatic test that determined the fitness of the cylinder. The cylinder being filled will heat up if it is being filled by a compressor instead of from a storage tank (like at a SCUBA tank filling station). There are some other variables that must be taken into consideration when filling a tank with compressed gas. Fatalities occur now and then that are associated with the failure of a tank. As there is no definite answer for the question owing to the lack of specifics. Only a general reply can be made.

The 2012 Toyota Prius-C has front wheel drive.

The 2006 Toyota Matrix has front wheel drive.

The 2010 Cadillac SRX has front wheel drive.

The 2007 Honda Pilot has front wheel drive.

It smellz like fecies and urine

sounds like a motor or transmission mount is your likely problem

If you are talking about the condition of the lights when you turn on the key and not after startup, this is normal. The instrument panel on most cars is absolutely cluttered with warning indicator lights and buzzers. These lights are color-coordinated so that different colors indicate the severity of the potential problem. As you start the car, all of the lights should come on, and as the computer verifies each component is working properly, the light is turned off. You should only be concerned with lights that remain on for several minutes after the car has been started. Check engine or service engine soon lights can be tricky to repair, so a little help on your part could really save the mechanic some diagnostic time, and save you some money! Treat check engine lights-service engine soon lights, and all dash lights like traffic signals. A Red Warning light indicates an immediate danger. Pull over, turn off the car immediately and assess the problem. Symptoms that usually cause red warning lights are engine over-heating, low oil pressure, transmission over-heating, low battery voltage, and brake failure. Red lights can also indicate a safety issue, so proceed with caution as you maneuver to stop the vehicle. Unfortunately, when the red light is illuminated the problem is at its peek. It can be a matter of seconds before permanent engine damage occurs. Some common things to look for when a red light comes on are: low anti-freeze, engine oil, and transmission fluid levels low brake fluid missing belts faulty alternator that is not charging the battery or a bad battery A Yellow Warning light, (Usually a Service engine soon light) indicates "Proceed with caution." The onboard computer system has indicated a potential problem and is alerting the driver. This computer system resets and re-tests all sensors and indicators each time the car is started. The computer system is capable of correcting some minor abnormalities, but if the light continues to come on after multiple car starts, it is probably sensing something that would imply a visit to the diagnostic mechanic is in order. Some common things that may cause a yellow light (Service engine soon light) to come on, but will probably require an experienced technician to diagnose are: anti-lock brake systems safety restraint systems, such as air bags emissions components computer-related problems, such as faulty sensors If you are driving your car and a yellow light comes on, ask yourself these questions: 1. Did you notice problems when starting the car? (slower to start than normal..etc.) 2. Have you noticed a decrease in fuel mileage recently? 3. What is the over-all running condition of the car? Is the engine misfiring or not performing like normal? Are there any new noises from under the hood? Turn off the radio and listen closely as you drive the car. 4. Do you notice any odors, such as a rotten egg smell, or see visible smoke from the tail-pipe or from under the hood? Make sure to note the exact location and wording of the light that has been coming on, because Murphy's Law dictates that the light will suddenly not come on when you take it in to the repair shop. In some cars, "engine" is the more serious red light, whereas others use "check engine light," which is a yellow caution light. If the mechanic thinks you are seeing a yellow "check engine light," and your car is indicating a red "engine" danger light, this could be a costly mistake for both of you. Why? You could be having a serious over heating problem and the mechanic is assuming you are having a less serious caution light illuminating. The mechanic then might give you the "green light" (no pun intended) to proceed with your out of town road trip with the kids. Yikes! Start the car, and point to the light to ensure good communication of the problem. Intermittent dash warning lights can be a pain and hard to diagnose! Diagnosing the problem in some cases will require the light to be on while the mechanic performs the diagnostic test. If the light is not on when you bring the car to the shop, you might be wasting your time and the mechanic's. SIDE NOTE: Keep a "running condition and dash light" log in your car to help the mechanic pin point the root of the problem. I have a customer who keeps such an accurate log of her cars' complaints that sometimes I can diagnose the problem correctly with the help of her log and by taking her along on my initial test drive. I can do my diagnosis usually without opening the hood to her car. This saves me time and she saves money on a diagnostic charge. This customer can also hold me to my warranty time period, because she had this particular complaint written in her log book.

I am replacing the heater core and followed the skimpy instructions in a paperback manual that were very lacking. There were many steps that were not covered and this might help you if you are doing this job. I had the refrigerant in the air conditioning evacuated, disconnected the refrigerant lines and the air conditioning throttle valve at the firewall, then removed the water hoses to the heater (I am also doing a head removal that made access to the firewall tons easier. That's the easy part! You will need to disconnect the battery, remove the two 10 amp fuses in the fuse box that feed the air bag as well as disconnecting the orange wiring connector at the base of the steering column under the dash. It helped to take the three screws off that hold the square, silver box to the left of the steering column to better access the orange connector. Remove the glove box by gently pulling while twisting the hinge pins at the bottom inside of the box. Remove the center screw near the latch that fastens to the dash. Remove the center console, radio and its housing bracket that connects to the floor, and heater control lever assembly. Now remove two screws under the instrument bezel. Remove the small access covers on the top of the bezel that conceal the other two screws, remove screws and pull out bezel (The instrument cluster remains for now). Remove wiring connectors from bezel that feed the light switches and wipers. Remove screws that hold the instrument cluster, and pull out partially to allow removal of speedometer cable and wire connections after which you will then be able to easily remove the instrument cluster. Remove screws that hold the dash trim strip where the dash meets the windshield. There are screws that hold the ends and one in the center that is concealed by a small access cover. You need something like a small flat hook-like tool to pry the small square plastic screw concealing cover up and back. Now the dash hold down bolts will be exposed to allow their removal. The center fastener is a nut that holds the dash down on a fixed stud. The Dash will eventually need to be pulled up over the stud to clear the stud before the dash will pull away from the firewall. There are some other minor fasteners that hold various parts of the dash to brackets under the dash. Keep wiggling the dash to see where it is hanging up and remove what you need to. Once the dash is loose you simply pull it out. You will have good access to the heating/cooling assembly. Remove the control cables and wiring to the unit. Then remove the six or so nuts that attach the unit to the firewall. Remove the center floor ducting by removing three or four small screws that hold it to the main unit. You will notice a tubular steel strut just behind the dash that runs the width of the interior that supported the dash. It has some sharp tabs welded to it, so be careful. The right side can be loosened by simply removing two bolts to facilitate removal of heater components. I tried to separate, pull, and wiggle the three component parts of the heater unit (right to left: Blower, air conditioning condenser housing, and the main control box that houses the heater core) to remove them. All came loose except for the black box that houses the air conditioner condenser. It would not need to be removed except to provide a path to remove the main box that houses the heater core. It feels very loose but something at the firewall is holding it from behind. I'll try again tomorrow.

Fuel pump regulator is usually located on top of engine assembly near fuel injector rail assembly looks like a chrome or black dinner bell, usually has fuel lines connection on it. look for fuel lines coming up fire wall and heading towards fuel injectors.

The question was I have a 1997 Ford 4 wheel drive why is it up in the air on a lift when the truck is in two wheel drive the rear end acts like a limited slip where one wheel turns one way in the other wheel turns the other way but when you lock it in 4 wheel drive the switch on the inside and put it in 4 wheel drive for some mysterious reason the back becomes posi Trac we're both wheels turn in the same direction why is that

what causes rear wheel rotors to heat up

its about a 1x1 inch block located on fenderwell under hood drivers side it has 4 prong plug i believe

First you have to drop the tank, so that your hand will fit. Then use the "special tool" (it's plastic). You can find these at most auto parts stores.

protection valve maintains air in the tractor brake system in the event of the trailer air lines becoming compromised.for example, if a trailer line is leaking, broken or disconnected

The 2010 Chevrolet Malibu has front wheel drive.

The 2004 Chevrolet Silverado-2500HD has rear wheel drive.

The 2001 Volvo C70 has front wheel drive.

The 2013 Chevrolet Malibu has front wheel drive.

If its the bronco XLT you'll have to take the tail gate paneling off the inside. The motor, gears, etc. for the rear window are located in there. I had the same problem with mine sometime back.

driver side above the oil filter

look in the trunk above one of the wheel wells

push the 4X4 button located on the center console If you have a manual transfer case, you have to lock the front hubs, Turn the dials on the front hubs from "FREE" to "LOCK". The manual transfer case is "shift-on-the-fly". This means you can shift between 2HI and 4HI and back while moving. You must be stopped to shift from 4HI to 4LO or from 4LO to 4 HI. With automatic hubs the above answer will work. To disengage the auto hubs take it out of 4 wheel drive and drive in reverse for around 10 feet.