Ford Contour

On a 1999 Ford Contour :

In the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine

compartment

( fuse # 9 is a 15 amp fuse for the fuel pump )

* Also in the P D Box , relay R1 is the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is located in the drivers footwell , behind the kick panel ( there is an access hole in the panel )

If you have the V6 engine, it's actually on the driver's side, between the engine and the firewall, beneath the exhaust manifold; a real pain to get at! It's actually easier to access from beneath the car. If you try this, remember to use jack stands to support the car when you're under it!

I belive on Contours they just pop off. Use a screw driver to pry it from the rim. Some cars, use the lug nuts to help hold on the wheel cover. So, before you pry. Look to see if your lug nuts are exposed.(Don't confuse this with fake molded on lug nuts) Then, see if it looks like the wheel cover is between the lug nuts and rim. If not, pry them off. If the cover looks like its held on by the lug nuts you'll have to remove them. You'll have to jack up the car to do this. Just remember to "break" loose the lug nuts before you jack up the car.

We got ours from the ford dealership in our town.

Author: Don Craig Applicable to: All vehicles with V6 Added: 09/19/2002 Updated: 09/19/2002

You will need a 1/4" drive metric set with 7, 8, & 10mm sockets. 10mm must be deepwell to get to the nuts on the battery clamp. Some extensions and a driver handle are a nice plus. Waterpump belt part # is F5RZ-8620-A, aka JK3-274

Remove the engine/pump belt plastic cover and battery. Push the belt tensioner in till it hits the cam pulley and remove the drive belt. The tensioner will move inward by hand, I was surprised how easy it moved. Unclip the plastic clamp around the water hoses. Unclamp the hose attached to the steel tube that runs along the front of the engine, have a pan under the car ready to catch the coolant that will spill out when you pull the hose off. Leave the cap on the expansion tank, this will slow the loss of coolant.

If you have an ATX, remove the plug and cable from the top of the tranny and set it out of the way to keep it dry. This will also keep it safe from ratchet blows and give you more room. MTX owners have plenty of room. Minor differences from year to year are the placement of the PCV hoses, which may be in the way.

Unbolt the thermostat housing (2 bolts) and remove the housing and short section of hose that goes with it. You can study the thermostat if you desire. Make sure you put the O-ring back when you reassemble it. Fun part. You need to hold the big radiator and heater hose away and maneuver the 8mm socket on to the pump bolts. No need to unclamp them if you are handy. Note the position of the 3 long bolts that go through the pump front and into the engine block when removing the bolts. After all the bolts are removed the pump usually sets there because the gasket is still holding it. Take a punch (or screwdriver for us poor folks) and tap the front section a little to remove its grip. It will fly off, coolant and pieces of the impeller will go with it. I hunted down the pieces to make sure I had it all, some sections got stuck in the rear housing. If you can't find all of them, best you back flush the engine now.

All you need is the front section of the pump with the impeller and gasket. If you got the new pump that comes with the rear housing and hoses and want to replace all of it, this is the time for it. Some of the hoses are buried under the intake. Don't need replacing unless they are old and worn out.

Clean up the area and install the new front impeller section and new gasket.

If you have an ATX, clean and blow out the socket on the tranny, lube the gasket in the plug with silicone grease and install. Reverse the order and refill what you lost in the tank. It will take a couple of heat ups and cool downs to get all the coolant back in. Take a bottle of Dexcool with you, or drive around, let it cool, refill.

Inline 4 Cylinder

Remove the air intake assembly, disconnect the negative battery terminal, then take off the serpentine belt. Rotate the crankshaft pulley until the cylinders are on the compression stroke, top dead center (TDC). Remove the top timing belt cover and mark the camshaft sprocket thingies so that you can exactly re-align them on reassembly. Remove the middle timing belt cover.

Remove the crankshaft pulley so that you can remove the bottom timing belt cover.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

The Haynes manual says to pull the starter and use a large screwdriver to keep the gears from moving (on the automatic transmission), but doing so damaged the flywheel; a mechanic recommended using an impact driver to break it loose.

On the manual tranny, put it in 5th gear.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Remove the power steering pump, leaving the lines connected. Drain the coolant into a container. Disconnect the water pump hose that was hidden by the power steering pump. Lock the camshaft sprocket thingies so that they don't move and remove the timing belt. Unbolt the four bolts in the water pump, remove the two timing pulleys from the water pump (requires a funky star head bit, runs about $5) and install them on the new one. Reassemble.

every silverado through1994 had problems with the thermostat. i have replaced mine 3 times and finally i just got auto meter gauges. buy some cheap autometers and hook it up and i guarantee it will read normal. also oil pressure gauge problems often occur. while your in their you might as well replace that too with an autometer gauge.

Its left of center at the front of the engine and slightly obscured. The handle should be yellow in color. Hope this helps.

If you gap all the new plugs first and then replace the plugs and wires one at a time you won't have to worry about messing up the firing order. (This will happen if you pull all the plug wires at once and don't replace them in the same locations.)

GL is base model. No such thing as a Contour LS. Contour "LX" was supposed to be more luxurious than the base GL model. Contour SE is "sporty" trim model. Doing a quick read of a search on Answers.com would have saved you the time of asking the question and waiting for a response. Should be enough information there to assist.

electric braking works due to two laws, Lenz's law and Faraday's Law.

Faraday's law has to do with inducing an emf, when a disc on the axle is spun within a magnetic field, which is often created by an electromagnet we produce eddy currents.

These eddy currents are fairly random and produce "swirling" induced currents within the disc. The overall net effect of these eddy currents act in a way to appose the motion of the dick spinning in the magnetic field. This according to Lenz's law creates a force to counter act the disk spinning and slows the car.

Hence a breaking effect is achieved.

Trouble code P1451 means: Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit

Where is the PCV valve located on a 4 cyl ford contour and will this if replaced will let my service engine light go off?

Thermostat probably needs to be replaced.

( Yes ) according to the Gates website ( they make timing belts etcetera )

the 2.0 liter four cylinder engine in a 1998 Ford Contour IS NOT an

interference engine

Either a 6" x 8" or a 5" x 7" with a bracket that will fit the 6" x 8" opening (which is usually what you'll find in stereo stores and department stores).

The crash sensor could be located under the hood somewhere

To disarm the alarm on the 1998 Ford Contour, simply turn on the ignition using the vehicle's key. You can also disarm the alarm using the key fob.

You may have the wires for your horn crossed with the battery wire. This would cause the horn to go off any time the battery is connected.

just had this problem with my 97. if your car blows alot of white smoke or has coolant in the oil it would be the head gasket which is usually the culprit to the no heat thing from what I've been told. in my case i got LUCKY. pull the front passenger side up on a curb start the car with the heat on high, take off the reservoir cap and keep filling with engine coolant as needed. rev the engine a little every couple minutes and watch the air bubbles come into the reservoir from the lower hose. now my friend you have "burped" the coolant system. if you still don't have heat or a blown head gasket check the interior floor and see if it is wet. then it would be a heater core.

good luck

The 2.0 4-cylinder has a timing belt: the 2.5 V6 has a timing chain.

Its in the troudle fuel injection body if its factory there should be a white plug in it.The computer controls it. It has a little value in it that moves in and out for more air or less air. that gives curb idle speed.

That should be the vapor control canister assy.