Ford Contour

The fuel filter for a Ford Contour 4 cyl (Zetec 16 V) is located on the passenger side, in front of the rear tire. It's small and is attached by a metal band.

See "Related Questions" below for more details on replacing the fuel filter - the procedures are the same.

I have the same problem right now on my 2000 Ford Contour. Haven't figured out the answer yet.

I happen to have one of each and can say pretty confidently there is not a whole lot of mechanical compatibility between the Sable/Taurus and the Contour/Mystique.

On the other hand, they do share drivers and spots in the driveway pretty well - better than how compatible my kids are...

i have a 1998 ford contour and as far as i know there is no fuse for the moon roof. check the wiring and see if you have power going to it. it could not have power going to it or maybe the ground wire isn't connected right. it is also possible that the motor for it is just broke and needs to be replaced. but i would stat by check for power going to it. its cheaper!

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online

temp gauge is stuck on hot

There are two places where it can be located at one first get your owners manual out and check in the book I think it is between pages 138 and 143 for your fuse box diagrams the first fuse box is located under the left side of the dash on the drivers side look under the dash with a flash light and there will be a box with a black box attached to it dinging while the door is open look toward the left front of the box and there will be a black button grab one side of the box with one hand and push the button in and the box will open it will be square shaped with two wiring harness plugged in place and a couple of fuses read the wiring diagram for that fuse box to see if its located there if not check all of your fuses while your there and when your done push the fuse box back up and pop the hood raise up and put the stand in place look to your bottom right of the engine compartment by the battery and there's your other fuse box read the wiring diagram and see if its there and if it is check it if its blown replace it with the same amperage usually there's spares in the cover check the rest and your done. Remember to put the cover back in place and close the hood and your finished.

The contour had MacPherson struts in the front.

I don't have an answer but i am having the same problem, 4cly temp. gage keeps going to the red, funny thing is the fill tank does not get to the point of steaming and boiling over, but the fan kicks in when temp rises and works fine? i already tried replacing the thermostat today and kept it full of antifreeze, the head gasket was totally redone last year. next I'm going to try to flush the system, and check all hoses closley, before i sink any more money into it. i try to fix the cheap things first, then move forward, hope all works out for you.

Check the charcoal canister in the fromt. It is a black can looking thing that stores fumes when the engine isn't running and is supposed to burn them when it starts/

your local library may have a free shop manual to peek at.. good luck Dave

My AF1 overheated due to standing one winter with only water in the coolant. The little pin holding the pumpwheel rusted so it could not drive the water. It was very tricky to find the problem while the pump funcioned well without water due to a little resistance between the nylonwheel and the axel. So check the pin and see that everything works. Fill up with glycole-coolant and remove any air in the system. Ofcourse check for leaks and see to that the rubber gaskets in the top are where they are supposed to be.

"Flushing" a radiator is recommended when the coolant has passed its recommended service life or has been mixed with other fluids. Most manufacturers have outlined in the owners manual when it should done as maintenance.

How to replace power steering hose in 1999 ford excort

Removing the rear seat is only one step in fuel pump removal.This lets you access the connections only.To actually remove the pump,the tank has to be removed.This procedure can be a pain if you have big hands.

First off a little heads up for ya. There are not one but 4 oxygen sensors on the ford contour. Also the price is a bit high. However if you climb under the car you will find two of them located on the exhaust pipe right at the under the engine. Those are pretty self explanatory. Follow the electrical line one end is a clamp. Unclamp and remove the other from the pipe with a wrench. I can't remember what size. It will take a little bit of time due to tightness of the area. The other two are located over by the exhaust manifold. All are removed the same way. The tricky part is which one is the bad one. Unless you just want to replace them all.

Not programmed? Constant HOT feed not supplied? Defective radio? Option not available on that radio?

very easy its best to have the socket for an o2 sensor it has a slit down the side to allow for the wire to come out the side available at any auto parts store then you will find it in the front of the engine right behind the radiator it will have 4 wires coming out of it all you do is follow the wires to the wiring harness the detach the clip. then you use the socket to lossen it then unscrew the rest of the way out at this point wheather you bought one with the clip on it that attaches to the factory harness or if it has bare ends on the wires you may need to splice the wires to the original clip then screw it in place and your done 30 minutes tops

If you are talking about the 2.5 V6, then it's not as easy. According to several sources I've looked at while venturing to do this myself, there is debate among the experts, including Ford, Mercury, Autozone, Pep-Boys, Bosh website, Autoparts website and the toothless mechanic standing next to me in the Autozone checkout lane.

I think there are 4. I have found, and replaced 3 of the 4, and the fourth one, or AKA Bank-1 Upstream HO2, is between the firewall and the engine. The guys at the Mercury parts desk say that it's not really an O2, rather a catalytic sensor (Whiskey Tango Foxtrot).

Advice - Get Autozone to run a free diagnostic and tell you exactly which one it is, and replace only that one. I allowed my daughter to manage this thus I got the "Daddy, they're all bad" answer. Of course, being a good pop, I set my brain aside, believed what she said, spent $150 more than I had to, and found a different problem. You might be thinking about now, why would I listen to this person who got suckered by a teen-ager. Well, I'm just sharing something that will maybe help. I don't recommend the Hayne's manual either - it's pretty confusing. The Autozone freebie, so far, is better.

Semper Gumby

Oh - me again, the DA. The funky wrench the previous guy mentioned is a waste on the V6. Just use a (7/8) wrench. However, I may later learn that the funky wrench is the only way to get to the mystery O2. If so, I'll eat crow.

This is specific to the 1995 v6 model (and any other model years that may be identical to it as far as O2 sensors are concerned). The front bank sensor is relatively easy to do with a normal wrench. The rear is another matter as you can only access it from above. At the very least, you will have to remove the rear bank spark plug wires (better ID them with masking tape?) and the ignition coil (not hard). There is a metal track that provides support to a loom of wiring which traverses the engine from side to side, attached to the rear of the engine and close to the fire-wall. Only two small nuts hold that on, but you will have to use some force to remove the mounting tangs of this track off of the studs it is attached to. I was offered the loan of a modifed wrench for the sensor so I used it (the proper socket may have been a better option if you're willing to make the investment, but I don't hope to ever be able to make the comparison). As for the wrench, get a cheap 7/8 combination wrench and cut it down to no more than what you need to fit your hand, keeping in mind you are going to need the box-end of it. Grind over the cut off end to eliminate any sharp edges. Locate the sensor by hand (your eyes won't help here) and follow the wire up to the connector. Disconnect the sensor and hang on to the wire, placing the box end of your wrench over the wire. Follow it down onto the sensor and get the wrench over the sensor nut in such a way that you are going to be able to loosen it. If memory serves, you'll be pushing down to loosen. Once you have cracked it loose and maybe went through a couple more wrench-arcs, it should turn out by hand. Expect to spend about an hour replacing the back one. You might be tempted to do only the front if an engine fault code indicates the problem is the front one, but these are considered normal maintenance items, and you will be doing the rear at some point if you keep the car. .

Follow the positive battery cable to find the relay. It is mounted on the fender.

The relay is in the fuse box big the yellow one . the other big yellow one is the ac clutch .

On the Contour (from what I've seen), the two most common reasons the drum won't come off (assuming the basics are covered--parking brake released, retaining clips, if equipped, are off) are the drum is hanging on a lip worn into it from use or the drum has seized to the center hub flange (very common and a pain). To remedy the first issue, pop the rubber dust plug out of the backing plate--it can be found on the back of the backing plate just forward of the strut--to access the automatic adjuster. Insert a small flat screwdriver and feel for the adjuster's fingers. Once you contact the fingers, lever the screwdriver (moving the handle toward the strut--the blade toward the front of the car) until the adjuster is fully retracted. Typically, this is the cause/solution to your issue if it feels like the drum will pull off somewhat and "spring" back, but not always.

The second cause seems to be one the Contours are quite prone to. A little ring of rust forms on the center hub flange and locks the drum in place. Spray some penetrating oil where the drum and hub flange contact and give the drum a few good whacks with a 3 or 5 pound mallet. Hit the drum on the outer face toward the edge, hitting opposing quadrants as to teeter the drum off. With a fairly strong shot, you should see the drum begin to move. A couple hits will get it loose and the it can either come off by hand or with a little help of a puller. Don't use much force with the puller, its just to keep the drum centered while attempting to remove. There is a chance of damaging the drum or other components using this method so inspect any parts you intend on reusing before reinstalling them and know in advance you may have to buy replacements.

In any case, be sure to use some anti-seize on the mating surfaces to ensure easier removal next time.

Well depending on how hard you turn the corner can move the fuel from the fuel pump can also result in burning up your fuel pump one replace your fuel filter if that doesn't work replace the gas cap in the fill up door doing so this two steps should resolve your problems and help keep your fuel under pressure if you still have the problem acquiring with your car then have the fuel pump and the filter that sometimes does not come with the pump replaced by an ASE Certified mechanic now after all of this is done you shouldn't have any more problems. Search wisely on who you want to do the work and get quotes on how much there going to charge you for the repair and make sure there ASE Certified so if you have a problem again from what ever work they have done like the pump going out or it quits running take it back to them and only them because there work is under warranty. Remember shop wisely don't rush into it or your going to get burned with a very large bill.

If you haven't gotten the answer to this question by now, see this link...

contour.org

For the V6 of this model year, it's relatively easy. Best to ensure the engine cannot be started by removing the battery ground cable first. While draining the coolant via the rad petcock (don't ask me how these things get their names), remove the plastic cover over the front cylinder bank. The water pump should then be visble on the driver side of the block below the front head. It is driven by the front camshaft pulley and a belt that uses a small tensioner. You can release the belt tension by hand. The air filter housing cover and inlet that is attached to the air horn (on top of the engine) and anything connected to this assembly, must be removed. There are also a few small hoses, wiring connectors and other paraphenalia that will have to be disconnected. Make careful observations during dis-assembly and re-assembly.

Sorry that my memory is a bit fuzzy on this part, but I recall that some of the pump mounting bolts are what are sometimes referred to as through-bolts (since they pass through something you usually don't want to disturb; in this case the pump housing attached to the block). I was careful not to disturb this housing too much; there may have been one or two bolts holding it in place that did not need to be disturbed. If that's the case, leave them alone and you should not need any other gaskets other than the one for the pump assembly. Always check your new parts for clues to dis-assembly and to confirm you have the right part for the job. Make sure all of the old gasket material has been scraped/sanded of of the block before installing your new or rebuilt pump.

NOTE for other posters: Did you notice that the original poster didn't think to specify the engine he had? Try to provide as much useful info as possible when soliciting help.

I posted "for the v6 of this model.." I forgot about having to remove the battery. This note is posted rather than edited because I don't believe in having to register on a web-site to offer assistance.

This is easy to do!

1st unscrew the door cover. (there are several little round plugs the cover the screws int the handle and bottom half of the door. you will need a small knife or screw driver to unplug them.) there is one also hidden in the handle.)

2nd unhook the the power supply to window/door switch

3rd there is a white clip that has two bolts that actually connect to the the window.

you may need to roll the window down to the half way position to access it. once you take those two bolts out there will be two black clips that you need to push out. the window will then come free. be careful because you will break it if you do not have help holding.

Take the plast cover off the steering column between the steering wheel and the dash. It should be located right on top or on the side.