Ford Escort LX

i believe the rear speakers are 5x9 and the front are 51/2 round

27mm

your caliper is too small. you got the wrong part from the store. I had the same problem

By having the problem that triggered the light in the first place fixed. Do not attempt to fix this yourself. This is not a DIY job. Working on the SRS system can be very dangerous, so leave it to a professional.

It is located inside the engine block itself and is sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU then switches the fan on.

other than sluggish stearing driving with the belt off of your motor won't hurt anything as the water pump is run off the timing belt(different belt hidden behind that black plastic)

185-65-14

The brake switch at the pedal is stuck and should be replaced. Also check to see if hard rubber round pad on the brake petal is missing which makes contact on brake switch. The back of the pad has a pull through tab that secures it through the hole in the arm. This tab brakes off and the pads falls off and keeps the switch open and lights will stay on. It happened on my wife's car.

Try pressing the button on top of the steering column. It should be marked with a red triangle.

Depends on the shop, Labor guide says 5 hours which is very close. I just done one for $200. One of the easier trans to change.

Take the covers off (10 or 11 mm bolts). look for a mark on the cog and on the engine block sometimes thers a hole that you can put a bolt in but not allways. turn with spanner till they line up. drop left side of the engine but put a jack under it b4 you unbolt anything. once dropped jack car up and mark every cog with tip ex then mark the engine so they all line up like the top cog. There should be a TENSION COG in the middle (DRAW A GUIDE SO YOU KNOW HOW THE BELT GOES ROUND THE COGS). loosen the TENSION COG so the belt is loose take belt off if theres any bits bolted to the engine take em off out the way. put new belt on then re tension the belt. you want it a nice snug fit not too loose not to tight that it comes off. put everything back in reverse order jack engine back up bolt it too the car and you're done. if there isn't a tension cog just undo the bottom cog ( 19 or 22 mm i think) take belt off put new 1 on from bottom upwards. leave the top cog till last. put the belt on from the back of car towards you get a spanner on the cog and a blunt flat screwdriver between the belt and the cog and turn push at the same time til it goes on. make sure all the cogs line up with marks b4 you start the engine. YOU'RE DONE ALL IN ALL ABOUT 2-3 HOUR JOB if you've never done it 4!!! gud luck I have the same car so ask me if you get stuck!!

There is a hit unit inside the engine compartment (look for a covered black box at the left side of the car).

inside - you'll find a black electronic device (looks like a big fuse). take it out and it should stop the fan from working.

There is a thermal unit in it - it must have been stuck.

Replace this unit (very cheap)

hope this helps.

Dror

The fan is operated by the computer when the temperature of the cooling system reaches a specific temperature or when the air conditioner is turned on. It does this through sensors. When the temperature sensor or the air conditoner sensor sends an impulse to the computer it in turn operates the fan through the CCRM. (Constant Control Relay Module). It is under the right strut tower below the air filter housing. If the fan isn't coming on and the engine is overheating the fault is either the temperature sensor or the realys.

If you don't know, you probably shouldn't be on the road. Go take some driving lessons and get your license, then come back to the arrows and you should find your answer.

On the original radio installed on my 1997 Ford Escort, to the right of the LED time are two tiny buttons: H and M. To change either Hour or Minute, press on the button while simultaneously pressing either the "-" or "+" button that is located below the Bass and Treble buttons. My factory radio (96 Wagon, 1.9L) had a 'Clock' button. All you do is hold it, and press seek left and right to control hours, and minutes. I dont know if this will help, not sure what style radio you have.

If you're POSITIVE the clutch slave cylinder isn't leaking, there's only two other places it could come from. The clutch master cylinder or the hydraulic line in between the master and the slave cylinder. Maybe I'm confused. Isn't the clutch Master cylinder the one that the owner would check, and the slave cylinder inside the transmission?

Usually on the rear upper radiator

It should open from the inside. Then the switch is usually in the latch for the door. HTH

1. Jack up the front of the vehicle and put it up on stands. Don't trust a jack.

2 Take the front wheels off.

3. Pull the clip that holds the brake line to the strut. Don't take it off.

4. Remove the bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle.

5. Remove the top 3 nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower.

6 Remove the strut.

Pull it out of the fuse block with a pair of needle nose pliers if you don't have a fuse puller. It is a little square piece of plastic with 2 metal tabs sticking out of it. Hold it up and look at it. There is a little piece of metal wire inbedded in the central plastic area of the fuse. It it is blown, the metal wire is broken in the middle of it. It is in 2 pieces rather than one. You can always take a DVOM and test the two leads of the fuse on the Ohm scale.