186 60 14. I'm running 165/80r15 Kumhos on my 97 Escort wagon. I found the 15" rims at the local wrecking yard. The tires clear the front strut towers by 1/2". This setup gears up my car 10 percent thus improving gas mileage. The OEM tires are 23" high and these are 25 5/8". you could go with P185/65r15's as well and that would gear you up 5 percent and those are 24" tall.

In order to remove the key ignition switch on Ford's, the ignition must be in the run position and the holding pin depressed. Without the key, a locksmith is your best bet. Keys can be generated by code, try-out keys, the ignition can be drilled and removed, or in worse case, can be forced to the run position. Trying any of these without knowing exactly what you are doing will likely result in damage to column.

Sorry it's probably not the answer you were looking for.

Best Regards

Most Fords require a key to remove the ignition lock cylinder to replace it. HOWEVER the 1995 ingnition assembly can be removed regardless of having a key or not. You have to remove the stering wheel, multifunction switch (can be unscrewed and pulled over steering hub and moved aside without cutting wire ties or disconecting). then remove 4 steering column bolts allow steering column to drop. On top of steering column there is a collar with two rivet looking fasteners holding the lock assembly to the column, these are actually screws. Use a dremel tool with a cutting disk to slot the tops of the screws to allow a standard screwdriver to be used. Out comes the entire assembly and can be replace for about $130 for a new assembly. You can also replace the lock cylinder for about $25, but you have to remove the two roll pins holding it in place, this requires drilling them out and it is a royal pain. I think they are hardened steel, or stainless either way they eat drill bits and time. With a new set up your door keys will be different from the ignition, but without an ignition key to begin with, I would assume you need to replace the door locks also, you can buy a set so at least all of the doors will use the same key.

Remove - battery cable

Raise and support vehicle

Remove wiring at top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

It's the 100 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box by the battery.

If none of the dash lights are working, then it won't be the cluster. You are going to have a problem with one of the fuses, a switch, or wiring. Does it have running/tail lights? If it is just one bulb, then,

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Hydraulic clutches use a slave cylinder mounted at / on the transmission to operate the clutch lever. It has a bleeder valve much like a brake wheel cylinder or brake caliper. It typically shares the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Use penetrant to minimize the risk of shearing the bleeder valve. Once the valve is working, use the same sequnce to bleed as for brakes. Depress the clutch, open the valve, close the valve, release the clutch, repeat till clear fluid (no old fluid which is YELLOw) and no air, flows. REFILL THE RESERVOIR as needed.

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Loosen the clamp bolts on the cable. If it is shifting down to a lower gear when the throttle is at max it is all right. If it is shifting down too early, lengthen the cable adjustment. If it is shifting down too late or not at all shorten the cable adjustment.

Well No Expert Here But If Your Getting Lots Of Gas In Oil If 1 Plugs Not Firing It Allows The Unburned Gas right Into Oil ItSelf.. Check That All 4 Sparkplugs Are Firing That First Thing To Check

I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but have to assume that "shifting through gears" means you have a manual transmission. If that is the case, then I suspect that the "battery light" coming on occurs WHILE the engine has dropped back to IDLE. The charge indicator light is designed to alert the driver that more electricity is being drawn from the battery than the charging system is able to put into the battery. The electrical output of the alternator is proportional [at lower rpm] to the speed that the alternator is turning. The condition you describe suggests a couple of possible causes: 1. That the IDLE SPEED of your engine is set TOO LOW [USUALLY, and PROBABLY, the most likely cause] or 2. For some reason the output from the alternator is weak [very unlikely]. I suggest that you have your vehicle's charging system checked out by a QUALIFIED mechanic or autmotive electrical technician. The correction may require no more than an ADJUSTMENT of the IDLE SPEED. j3h.

The transmission will slip when the clutch pack material has worn away significantly, or if the load on the transmission is greater than it was designed for.

the sensor is on the the thermostat housing, youll see one on top(fan sensor)the other is underneath the housing.the housing will have to be removed to change it

If there is current going through the wire to the blower switch, try bypassing the switch with a jumper wire. If the blower motor works, then replace the switch. If the blower motor does not come on, then you probably need to replace the blower motor.

i do

Temp sensor on tube just under coil pack It is the one with the weatherpak connector replace that and I'll bet you it will work. i got the same problem but i repalced that sensor and it still doenst kick on and the motor still over heats i have replace the anti-freeze if the guy who answerd the ? before me knows anything else that would work thanks jeff-ke7ace My 93escort lx has 3 different relays that control the fan motor. one of them fried and the fan would no longer work. Try locating them and see if they look burnt.A shop told me where to find the relays. On the '93 there is also a fan switch temp sensor. If this is not working the fan will not come on when the temp rises. Does the fan come on when you turn on the A/C? Turning on the A/C should bypass the temp sensors and force the fan on if the fan motor itself is good. Unplug the fan motor and see if you have twelve volts at the connector when the temp is up or the A/C is running. Also if memory serves the relays are on the passenger side firewall near the top.

13,I think- I drive an escort