Ford Expedition

check the starter what year is it , if the key has a transponder chip and you are using a dup made at a wallamrt it won't work.

remove the steering colum cover there is a pin type button you need to push in on the bottom of the ignition switch. press that and turn the cylinder at the same time. if you dont have a key or it is broke a screwdriver will work been there before.

Remove the door and window handles then all of the screws you can find then with a special tool, remove the retiners around the sides and bottom of the door. When all is loose, pull out on the bottom and push in on the top then lift to disengage the door.

Go to the following website. It will show how to remove the door panel. http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000790.pdf

LOOSEN& REMOVE THE 2 BOLT FROM BEHIND THE CALIPER TOP & BOTTOM. I THINK ITS A 1/4 IN. SOCKET. THEM YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TAP THE CALIPER WITH A HAMMER TO GET IT LOOSE, WHEN LOOSE REMOVE IT FROM ROATAR..

The door sensor is an integral part of the door latch mechanism. The sensor cannot be replaced independent of the latch. A sensor appears on each of the four doors, as well as the tailgate. WD40 sprayed on the sensor sometimes frees it up (you must remove the interior door panels to access -- it's part of the latch and difficult to see because it's well hidden inside the door), but just as often, WD40 won't cure it. You can also remove the 15Amp fuse in position 14 in the box located beneath the driver's side of the dash. This will disable the interior lights as well as the running board lights (good), but it also disables the power windows (bad). This will, however, solve the problem of the lights remaining on after the doors are shut and running down your battery. The only true fix is the replace the affected latches. They sell for approx. $55 on the Web, and unless you're mechanically inclined, and very patient, you should have the dealer do it for you (expensive). Malfuntioning door sensors are a very common problem on Expeditions, Explorers and Windstars.

you first take the tire off. then you take caliper off and then the dust cover, then take the codder pin out. Unscrew the bolt and pull off rotor be carefull the front bearings are not held in by a seal so they will fall out when you take the rotor off. To take the rear seal off and get the bearing out go from the front side take something like the end of a wood hammer, stick it through the center and put on the back of the bearing. take another hammer and pound the bearing until the seal breaks loose. Take the bearing out clean all the grease out with an alchol based cleaner then take your new bearings be sure to pack them well and grease up the inside of the rotor and stick the rear bearing in tampered end down and use a block of wood and pound the new seal in and make sure it is level all the way around with the metal. then stick the front bearing in tampered end down and then put your washer on top of bearing. grease the spindle up good and put the rotor back on the spindle and make sure you break the bearing in by spinnig the rotor and tighen and loosen and tighen and loosen the nut about 4 time to break the bearings in. Make sure you put new cobber pin in and put dust cap on and caliper then put wheel back on and you are all set to go.

You can buy a recharge kit from your local auto parts store and it will come with directions but, if the system was empty there must be a leak so recharging it will be a waste of money. Have the system serviced by a qualified technician.

The most likely cause is a dilution of the fuel/ air mixture caused by a vacumn leak. check for a hissing sound near the top center of the engine.

Yes it is. I know this by experience. Timing jumped and bent the valves

On a 1999 Ford Expedition , 5.4

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

The 5.4 has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

Mass Airflow Sensor Operation The Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor directly measures the mass of air being drawn into the engine. The sensor output is used to calculate injector pulse width. The (MAF) sensor is what is referred to as a "hot-wire sensor". The sensor uses a thin platinum wire filament, wound on a ceramic bobbin and coated with glass, that is heated to 200*C (417*F) above the ambient air temperature and subjected to the intake airflow stream. A "cold-wire" is used inside the (MAF) sensor to determine the ambient air temperature. Battery voltage from the EEC power relay, and a reference signal and a ground signal from the PCM are supplies to the (MAF) sensor. The sensor returns a signal proportionate to the current flow required to keep the "hot-wire" at the required temperature. The increased airflow across the "hot-wire" acts as a cooling fan, lowering the resistance and requiring more current to maintain the temperature of the wire. The increased current is measured by the voltage in the circuit, as current increases, voltage increases. As the airflow increases the signal return voltage of a normally operating (MAF) sensor will increase. Testing 1. Using a multimeter, check for voltage by back probing the (MAF) sensor connector. 2. With the key ON, and the engine OFF, verify that there is at least 10.5 volts between the VPWR and GND terminals of the (MAF) sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary. 3. With the key ON, and the engine ON, verify that there is at least 4.5 volts between the SIG and GND terminals of the (MAF) sensor connector. If voltage is not within specification, check power and ground circuits and repair as necessary. 4. With the key ON, and the engine ON, check voltage between GND and SIG RTN terminals. Voltage should be approximately 0.34-1.96 volts. If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty. Removal & Installation (4.6L & 5.4L) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Release the air cleaner clamp and separate the air cleaner halves. 3. Remove the grommet from the air cleaner housing and slide the grommet down the hardness. 4. Remove the (MAF) sensor plate and (MAF) sensor from the air cleaner. 5. Detach the (MAF) sensor from the harness. 6. Remove the retaining nuts and remove the (MAF) sensor. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal.

You can view the 1997 Ford Expedition owners manual ( which includes the

fuse diagrams ) online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the fuses and relays section starts on page 135 )

The owners manual is of little or no help. I have an 04 Eddie Bauer with heated power mirrors, and turn signals & puddle lights on the bottom of the mirror housing. Some Ford engineer needs a swift kick in the rear for making this procedure harder than it should be. I removed mine, and only after breaking the lens did I figure out how to do it the right way.

The mirror assembly has a spring indide the housing on a rotating hinge. The hinge allows the mirror to rotate towards the window of the vehicle. You have to gently lift the rotating mirror assembly and gently rotate it out - so it points slightly away from the vehicle. This will expose the small hex bit screw that holds the turn signal lens on to the bottom of the housing. After the screw is removed, you need to use the power controls to move the mirror so it is pointing in - towards the vehicle as far as the power will let it. (remember - you are not moving the entire housing at this point, just the mirror itself.) Using a small flashlight, look behind the mirror on the outside lower corner inside of the mirror housing you will see a little metal clip that holds the outside tip of the signal light lens to the bottom of the mirror housing. Using a small flat screwdriver, gently push in on that clip so it releases the lens. Rotate the lens down, and out to get to the bulbs. Install in reverse order.

NOTE: A couple of hints: 1) The replacement puddle lamp bulb is a #920. Owners Manual says "see dealer" in the bulb list. 2) Make sure the hex screw in the first step is on the housing's bottom, not the one on the window side. That screw will not unscrew all the way, as there is an integral washer on the head that doesn't clear the housing, so the lens must pivot on the loosened screw, so just unscrew it as far as it will go and proceed. I turned it a bit hard and snapped the screw anchor portion of the lens--thank goodness for hard-set resin glue.

Wheeeew. what a pain!

9mm Allen, hard to find. take 3/8 Allen and grind it down

On a Ford Expedition ( the # 1 engine cylinder / spark plug is on the passenger side )

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

If your talking about turning the alarm off while it's beeping and churping,, try putting the key in the driver side door lock and turn..... it happened to me and I didn't realize it was my car's alarm going off till i opened the door..... the car is still new to me, just bought it a few months ago. 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS

5 w 20 ( according to the Owner Guide )

R134

pop up the rear trim on the left side then pop the top left trim off with your hands. Top left piece is the one that has the tweet in it. Once its off, unscrew the knob that holds the retracktable back cover. Lastly, pop the main trim piece off with hands making sure to pop out the last plastic grommet under the knob that you unscrewed. That easy...

Check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the

front of your engine compartment . ( it will show the type of spark plugs to use

and the spark plug gap )

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system

The engine cylinder / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front

1