Ford Expedition

You either have a blown shock, saggy springs, or a shock mount is broken. This is something you probably should take into a shop as it will affect vehicle control on the road.

B&S 802592E refers to Champion RJ19-LM and B&S 492167E refers to Champion J19-LM. The spark plugs will functionally interchange but the 802592E (RJ19-LM) is a resistor plug and is a requirement in certain areas where a non resistor plug will cause radio signal interference.

4.6 L - V8 engine ( .054 inch ) 5.4 L - V8 engine - L and Z engine codes ( .054 inch ) 5.4 L - V8 engine - M engine code ( natural gas .044 inch ) The engine code is the 8th " character " of your VIN according to motorcraft . com

Neoplasms, often referred to as tumors, are abnormal growths of cells that have lost normal control mechanisms. These cells continue to divide and grow at an uncontrolled rate, potentially leading to the formation of a mass or lump of tissue. Neoplasms can be either benign or malignant, with malignant tumors having the potential to spread to other parts of the body.

Walled up means to be enclosed within walls. If I surround you with 4 walls standing at 90 degrees (straight up and down) made of very thick glass and twice your height, it is very unlikely you would escape - you are walled up.

A low idle could be due to a faulty idle air control valve or a vacuum leak, causing poor fuel-air mixture at low speeds. Losing power on hills and stalling in traffic could be due to a weak fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter, resulting in insufficient fuel delivery to the engine under load. I recommend checking these components for any issues.

All "check" lights come on briefly when starting your engine. This is to make sure the light is working if soemthing does malfunction on your vehicle. If the light comes on while driving you may have broken or loose belts.

When you are driving slowly with your foot off the brakes you will hear a scraping noise. The noise will go away when you apply the brakes. What you are hearing is the wear indicators making contact with the rotor surface after the pad lining have worn down to a certain level. Not all brakes uses wear indicators. VBD

You dont need to replace the motor just fix it. Remove the door panel by taking out a couple of screws around the inside door handle, the bottom rear of the door and pull the panel up and out. Unplug the window, door lock and courtesy light plugs. You will find three bolts that hold the motor in place. Remove them and the motor will fall out. Now unplug the motor and it is ready to fix. There are a few people on eBay selling the bushings that go bad, buy one of these kits. Each motor gear assembly has three bushings, they are sacrificial and will rot over time, it they where not there damage to the motor gears could occur they protect against it. The bushings can be tricking to get in, but if you get all three of them diagonally in and push hard they will slide in. When putting the motor back in make sure the outer gear goes onto the crescent shaped large gear in the door, if not you will just be putting the motor outside the gear. Put the connectors and door panel back on and you have spend one hour and $9 (That's what I paid for the bushings on eBay)

I just went through the ordeal with my 2000 Passport, maybe it will be the same with your's??? There are two almost hidden screws in the air-vents on the side of the lens. Once you remove those you can pull the top part of the housing from the car as it uses a friction pin. There is a screw in the bottom that looks like you'd have to remove the bumper to get, but I was able to pull the housing far enough away to replace the bulb without removing it. (not without some skinned knuckles and appropriate cursing!)

Changing a tail light on the Passport/Rodeo isn't really as difficult as I have seen some people make it out to be. I have a 2000 Passport, so I'm assuming that most other years for the Passport/Rodeo are similar. To change the bulb you have to remove the rear light fixture. You DO NOT have to remove anything on the interior of the vehicle. There are three screws to get the fixture off. The first two are on the side of the fixture in the small recesses that look like vents in the lights. They are diffuclt to see, but if you look closely, they're right there. Take them out. The third screw is located on the rear of the car, between the bumper and the fixture. It's hard to see without a flashlight. Loosen the screw until it turns very easily and gently pull back and up on the fixture. The assembly should slide right out. There is a pressure fit plastic piece that lines up the fixture. Be careful not to snap it like I did. After that, it's easy. Remove the snap fit electrical supply to the fixture and you're home free. Change the bulb and you're done. Getting that bottom third screw back in can be tricky. I found it easiest to put the screw back in and cover it with a thin piece of tape to hold it in place. Once the fixture is lined up you can secure the sides and screw the bottom in by puncturing the tape with the screwdriver. Took me an hour to figure it out the first time, took five minutes the next.

i believe it is in front of the radiator

The 1997 Chevy 1500 throttle position sensor is located on the firewall in the engine compartment. The throttle position sensor will be in the center of the firewall.

E12 external torx

I experienced this problem when I first brought my used '98 Expy home. I searched Ford Forums and found that the latches seem to get stuck in either of the doors (i.e. drivers. passenger and hatch) I sprayed W40 on the inside opening of the door latches and in the actual latch itself and slammed my door several times and to my delight, the lights went out (interior and running board as well. David (04/21/06

You need to remove the top half of the door card and then you can prise the inside black cover off the wing mirror, exposing the power lead (on an electric mirror) and also the 3 retaining screws. Then you just need to unplug the lead which is just inside the door card and the screws and the wing mirror is off. Whalaa

low pressure line leading toward the firewall,,,but read up on this everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

They are screwed into the exaust system at various points. Some people say that there are 4 oxygen sensors, but technically, that is not correct. Only the front 2 are considered oxygen sensors. They are screwed into the exaust pipe, one on each bank, after the exaust manifold, but before the catalytic converter. Sometimes they are screwed directly into the exaust manfold itself. The other 2 are actually called catalyst moniters. They are oxygen sensors, but they serve a different purpose. They moniter the activities of the catalytic converters, thus the name, catalyst moniters. They are screwed into the exaust one on each bank,after, or downstream, of the catalytic converters. A 7/8ths inch wrench is the size needed to turn the O2 sensors. They just unscrew out normally. The connectors on the front O2's will be a challenge. They are way up behind the engine in a really stupid place to get access and unplug/plug in.

You can view the 2004 Ford Expedition owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

The fuses and relays section starts on page 249

The manual has the diagram and list

Usually when the turn signal indicator in the car blinks fast is because one of the bulbs is blown. Check to make sure all your indicators are working when you turn on your left blinker. There are at least 3, front.. mirror... and rear.

Push headlight retaining housing retaining clips (rectangular metal tabs located above radiator wall and to outside and rear or headlight)rearward, then upward to release headlight assembly. Pull headight assembly forward from body. Unscrew bulb retaining ring. Remove bulb from headlight housing. Remove bulb from socket wiring by pulling straight out. Insert new bulb into socket wiring (use paper towel to avoid touching bulb). Reinstall by reversing removal instructions.

you also may have to loosen the air filter assembly and remove the air intake flange (rubber part) to gain full access to the screw holding the coolant tank.

If the CD is stuck in the load opening, take something small enough but with a blunt end and push at the CD to go back in several times and eventually it will come back out. I have found certain burned CD's with sticker labels can not be put in there because of the thickness. You can try like a butter knife, tweezeers or finger nail file but becareful not to push on the bottom part because you can scratch the CD. At least that's how it works in mine.