Ford Explorer

A 1996 Ford Explorer should be OBD II / EEC V with a data link connector in the

lower part of the dash , below the steering wheel , between the inside hood

release and the parking brake release and behind a small removable plastic panel

( if there was an " EEC TEST " connection it would be beside the Power Distribution

Box on the drivers side of the engine compartment )

In the front passenger footwell by the kick panel

cause you might not of put tighten the tire when you replaced it . or your rim is bent, did you hit a curb?

You need to know which engine. On the 5.0 V-8 the DPFE is mounted just to the right (using the vehicle "right" and "left", i.e., sitting in the vehicle looking forward) of the EGR valve. The EGR valve is right in the middle of the back of the engine, you really have to climb up under the hood to see it, its almost to the firewall. The DPFE has a roundish black top, and a black body. You can actually rotate the black top, but it doesn't unscrew. It has a two-wire cable/plug going into it, and two small black hoses attach near the bottom rear.

SOHC is short for Single Over Head Camshaft.

Are the switches on for the childproof door locks ? Open each back door from outside and look about 3 inches below the latching mechanism on the door and see if the levers are switched up , if so move the lever down

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer :

It has the 4.0 liter Over Head Valve / pushrod design VIN " X " engine

It has cast iron cylinder heads and uses ( 1 ) timing chain

The best word that I have heard to describe that engine is " gruff " but I

like it . Although , depending on model year of Ford Explorer it is rated at

45 to 50 horsepower LESS

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The Ford 4.0 liter Single Over Head Cam , V6 engine has aluminum

cylinder heads and uses ( 3 ) timing CHAINS . A main chain at the front of

the engine to the " jackshaft " , a chain from the jackshaft to the front of the

drivers side cylinder head , and a chain at the REAR of the engine from the

jackshaft to the passenger side cylinder head . It is a smoother running

engine and as mentioned before it has a higher horsepower rating

Ford first started using that engine in certain models of the 1997 Explorer

and as far as I know they have worked the " bugs out "

A malfunction with the anti-lock brake system has been detected ( you still have

" normal " braking unless the " brake " light in your dash comes on )

It could be a fuse , a sensor , or some other problem

1) Remove the power supply board for the radio display (LED driver board). Clean any scorch marks with a nylon brush and then resolder everything. You'll need a low temp circuit board soldering gun, a solder wick and a magnifying glass with light. Also alot of skill or experience. Instructions are available for the recommended modifications at shareamemory.com/radio for about $20.

2) Put in a brand new board. Available from the Pioneer Parts Center (800-421-1404) as part of a Compuond Unit. Just follow the phone system prompts. You may have to work with the person that answers the phone. Pioneer and Ford pretend they don't know they have a problem radio. This is just a kit with three circuit boards in it. The long skinny one is what you're after. You'll need the Ford model number and the Pioneer model number from your radio. These are found on the bottom or back of the unit. They charge about $95 for it. You can also get this kit from Auto Radio & Electronics (aka speed-O-Tach) out of Concord CA., about $94. Ask for Cindy (ext. 562), she will know exactly what you need. Compound unit part #HWM0043, there are two other part numbers available (HWM5469 is one). They are all interchangable. I don't know which is the most recent update or if each is for a specific radio model number.

3) Have a pro fix it. One is Trevor at Pacific Audio in Washington. 360-791-5336 or on the web at explorerradio.com or pacificaudiotech. He was charging about $60 but I doubt this includes shipping for the radio. I believe he offers a warranty but you should check to be sure. He can also fix most other problems your radio may have and it will get a good cleaning.

4) Replace the board with a rebuilt and modified one. You can get this from the Save My Sanity swap program at FixYourRadio.com. $84 plus $20 deposit on your old board. All postage included even the return label. The $20 deposit is credited back to your paypal account when he gets your board back. If this doesn't fix your radio, you send him back the modified board and he refunds everything. He also has lots of other fixes available (volume on/off knob, stuck CD). You can also do this through Wayne at In House Service Company in NY (631-751-1803) aka ourworld.compuserve.com. They were charging $78 for the board.

There are several other qualified repair services around the country and maybe a few other sources for the new board, but these were the ones I boiled it down to. They all seemed to have plenty of experience dealing with the radio display problem.

The specifics on my unit; Ford model #F87F-18C868-CD, Pioneer model #FH-2216ZF manufactured 2/98. I bought the compound unit from Cindy in option 2. Compound unit $93.80, shipping $10 UPS ground, CA sales tax $6.80, total cost $110.60. Arrived two days after I ordered it just like Cindy said. After I assembled the tools (stereo removal tool from Wal Mart, needle nose pliers, Jewelers phillip screw driver, #2 screw driver and small straight blade screw driver) and had the part in my had, it took less the 20 minutes. I now have a functioning display. You should assume it continues to work until I post again.

there is no need to remove the center nut- spray the rotor down with wd40 and bang the hell out of it with a hammer. dont worry about damaging it- you are likely replacing it anyway,

the fuel rail is held on by four bolts and i believe they are 9/16 on mine. the rail should just come up with a little force and the fuel injectors come out of the rail. at least that how my 88 is.

If you mean the big (probably 30mm or it could be a 36mm - (1999 has 32mm nuts)) nut in the middle of the hub, undo the dimple that keeps it from moving (don' worry about mangling the nut, you should not reuse it anyway), then remove it with an impact gun. You could leave the brakes assembled and have someone hold the brakes, while you use a very long breaker bar with a socket to remove it. It unscrews in a counter-clockwise direction (lefty-loosey). There are no left handed threads on this vehicle.

If stubborn and an impact air gun is not available, apply heat to the nut, then back to the breaker bar.

Note to all: If you have Automatic Temp Control (electronic temp setting), there is no resistor: just the blower control module (which you'll see just to lower right of blower fan, 2 screws hold it in, pop off the fan and you'll see it). The stores will sell you a resistor or condensor, or even a switch, but it has none of the above!!!!

(I spent a week looking everywhere for what the stores were saying was there somewhere behind fan!)

The 2003 Ford Explorer's turning circle is 36.7 ft..

If you have never changed it then Lincoln sets it as a default code. Its usually either in the manual, or alot of the time its a plastic card that's in the manual case, the leather or canvas thing they put the manual in. If you just bought it used or something and don't have anything the dealer can reset it for you, its easy.

Most of your newer vehicles are using a 5W30 weight oil. There should be a sticker either in the glove box, drivers door or on the hood or radiator support that will verify this. If the vehicle has high mileage I personally would suggest a 10W30 oil.

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According to the 2003 Ford Escape owners manual ( 5W-20 ) is the recommended engine oil weight for the 2.0 liter four cylinder and the 3.0 liter V6 engine ( Helpfull )

The Bryan disc is a flexible disc or ring of titanium and Teflon that is used to replace the intervertebral disc in patients with degenerative disc disease.

p0405 EGR position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage range (shorted low) *Clean or replace the EGR *Replace the DPFE *Clean the throttle body *Clean the MAF - use electrical contact cleaner and be gentle

5 quarts if you change the filter.

Need to know year, make and model.

Trouble code P0401 means:Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected

On a 2000 Ford Explorer the fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is

located in the front passenger footwell , by the kick panel

- if you don't smell gas or see any gas leaking , press the button down that has popped up on the top of the switch

- turn your ignition key to the RUN position for a few seconds and then turn your ignition key to the OFF position

- make another check for the smell of gas or any gas leaking , if none , go ahead and start the engine

The Explorer has the 5R55W transmission and has a unique system for the drain plug/fill meter. The drain plug unscrews with a hex nut (size?) in the traditional counterclockwise direction.

To fill the transmission, some early models have a fill plug on the back of the case near the extension housing, later models do not. There is no dipstick to check fill levels, what you do is re-install the drain plug, which is hollow. Use an Allen wrench to remove the "core" of the drain plug and then fill the transmission until oil comes back out of this hole, then re-install the core and you're done. DO NOT fill the transmission with fluid p to the level of the fill plug (this was the reason the fill hole on the case was eliminated) it will overfill and burn up the unit.

All 4R44 5R55 series transmissions use MERCON V fluid.