Ford Probe

The 1992 Ford Probe came in three different models, the GT, the GL, and the LX. All three have a?æstock curb weight of 2730 pounds.?æ

Have you replaced the seal? Sounds like a silly question, but if the seal is replaced correctly, it shouldn't leak, unless the mechanical componets that move the sun roof up and down are worn out or out of line, or dirt or grime is keeping the sun roof from closing completely. Make any sense?

First you need to make sure that all the air is bleed out of the slave cyinder. Then to adjust the point at which the clutch will engage, tighten or loosen the pushrod nut. It will be near the clutch pedal on a little rod between the firewall and pedal (the pushrod).

If you are talking about the inertia switch, it is in the hatch on the driver's side under the floor mat behind the wheel well.

3.9

when mine did that it was because the harmonic balancer (hb) pulley had gone bad and kept pushing the alternator belt off and breaking it. but fixed the hb pulley and started back up and as soon as i used the a/c the hb pulley blew, pushed the alt belt off and back to square one. now fixed a/c system lucky got a good deal, new hb pulley. new belts and all was fine for 15 months. now it just dies every once in a while, looking for answer on that one . no more belt problems though! 6/2009

A screw is really an inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder.

well one thing you can do is get a scan tool, they are not cheap but you hook it up to your diagnostics port and turn it on, your key has to be set to on not to acc. but not started either. run a sytem code check using your scan tool. it will display the codes causing your check engine light to come on. search the codes online if the scan tool doesnt tell you what the codes represent. then trouble shoot to find your problems. once done delete your ECUs codes and your light will turn off.

I have an 89 Ford Probe. I recently had to replace the alternator. The manual says to drop the exhuast, but I could not do that because of rust etc. I ended up removing both stabilizer bar ends, then rotationg the stabilizer bar out of the way to just barely sneak the alternator through. You will probably have to replace the stabilizer bar ends, they rust quickly and will probably break when you attempt to remove them, but they are cheap. Good luck! NO! there is a easier way take off the driver side front wheel and take the pin out of the stearing arm and move it to the side. Then You will have to take off the plastic wheel well. The alternator will look like it will not fit but it will just move it around until you get it out but be carefull make sure you tighten the nut to the stearing arm back on very tight and put the pin back in it. That is how I did it. No droping the exaust or motor mounts. Took me about half hour to do it. Good Luck

Inside of distriutor cap under the rotor (pick up stator). Very seldom fail. About 90 us dollars at local parts house.

Pull back the trunk carpet/mat on theleft side near the tailight and you will find a reset switch to the fuel pump. This may be your problem. It can get shorted out by moisture leaking in from around the large rear window seal. Bypass this switch and see if your car will start.

I don't know if your 1993 is the same as the 1996 Ford Probe , but on the 1996 it's under the carpet in the drivers rear of the cargo area , covered by a rubber cap , you push the raised portion of the rubber down to reset the switch ( P.S. close to the taillight )

Bolt Pattern 5x114.3

Mine went out 2 months ago. 95 Ford Probe 2.0L 4cyl. Buy a brand new clutch master cylinder. Used ones are not reliable unless they're rebuilts/refurbs. Take lose the lines/hoses connecting to your master cylinder making sure you plug them (i used a nail for the rubber hose and securely let the metal ones hang). The brake fluid from the hoses will eat off your paint if you're not careful. You may want to unbolt your charcoal canister and move it out of the way for more space. Unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall. (if memory serves me correctly, one of the bolts is fastened from the firewall, the other from inside the drivers compartment. This one is very hard to get to, the bolt is located directly above/around the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. It may take you awhile to locate it) Once you get that lose, remove the clutch master cylinder.

What you need to do next is bench bleed the new clutch master cylinder. Refer here http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/929.htm The Probe system is extremely similar owing to its Mazda roots. You do not have to recycle the brake fluid (I didn't have any tubes to run it back into the reservoir), just make sure you have lots of brake fluid from your auto parts place ;). Take and install the new CMC after you've bled it. DO NOT put it in there without it being bled. After you get it bolted down from both sides of the firewall, reconnect your hoses.

Heres the part where you need a friend (this part is also detailed very well in the article I pasted). Have your mate sit in the driver seat and slowly press in the clutch pedal (don't press it all the way down to the floor). Loosen the wheel cylinder nut at the rear passenger tire. Now have them press. When they reach a stop, quickly tighten the wheel cylinder again, then have them release the pedal. Repeat this until each time when they press down nothing but a steady stream of brake fluid shoots out of the wheel cylinder spout. Repeat for all four tires. And then go back and double check them all in the same manner. That's really all there is to it. It's a project you can do in a day. I believe the wheel cylinder nuts are an 8mm. I think the lines to the CMC are 8s or 10s. The bolts on the CMC mount is 14s I think.

I really suggest a Haynes manual, and scour the net for bench bleeding. You won't require any odd tools, other than something to bench bleed the CMC with, I used the handle of a wooden kitchen spoon used for mixing. Other than that-

Best wishes on your endeavour

In the fuse box by the battery. It'll be one of the big ones. The fuse box should tell you once you open it.

ok i just went though the same thing if it is a 2.2l.. Your water pump runs off ur timing belt so u have to take off the top timing belt cover first...umm when i did mine i took off my AC compresser cause it was a lil easier... but anyway after that u have to lossen the timing belt tensioner pully on the back side of the belt.. then take the belt off the cam pully... after that u have probly about 6 to 8 12mm bolts that run into the side of the block (there are 2 right under the water pump pully that are hard to see).. then after that it sould come off... it looks like it is all one piece but it splits so that's a good thing.. i hope this helps u though i tried to explain it the best i could...

The first model year of the Ford Probe ( in North America ) was ( 1989 )

To remove it from the car, if you have a 2.0L engine, one must actually remove the front exhaust pipe.

With a 2.2L engine one must remove the right halfshaft between the wheel and the transmission. This is a very involved procedure and the one in all the service manuals. If you want to save yourself some labor, remove the driver's side wheel, the bolt and sleeve on the sway bar that connects it to the lower A arm, and the castle nut holding the steering arm ball joint to the hub. Remove the lower splash guard. Pop the ball joint upward, separating the tie rod end from the hub, and swing the steering arm away. Unbolt and free the alternator from above. Lower it onto the half-shaft from above. From below, turn the alternator around and wiggle it through the opening in the wheel well. You will need to pull down on the sway bar at one point to get enough clearance. It WILL come out this way. Reverse the procedure to replace the alternator. Make sure you put the cotter pin back on the castle nut, and the castle nut is tight when you're done.

With a 3.0L engine one must remove the windshield washer reservoir, the power steering pump hoses and various support brackets.

Several hours are required for any of these procedures.

they used more than one type transmission but it should work if both are auto or both are manual

a two inch one

Vehicle needs to go onto diagnostics. Fault must be rectified before the code can be reset. Once the code is re set, the light will extinguish.

According to the manual, .039-.043 inches.

Connect a jumper wire between the tbs terminal and ground terminal in square dtc box on left front fender apron ,the box is marked diags let the lite on the dash blink all the codes then push brake pedal ten times this is with the key on engine off. That will clear the codes except the hard ones that you must fix to clear. Try unhooking the battery for a few minutes.

You do need to drop the tank, you don't have to remove the exhaust like the manuals say, you just need to remove the driver side rear wheel and can force it out the side, re-installing it is very difficult, you have to tweak the whole thing and then end up kicking it into place while holding a sway bar.