Ford Ranger XL

because you need to have the cylinders synchronized so that a specific one is on the power stroke while specific other ones are on their compression stroke (which requires that other's power stroke). I'm sure you could have it set up with many different firing orders, but I'm assuming that it would throw off the crank shaft's balance quite a bit compared to this commonly used sequence.

There is a retaining ring at the front of the receptacle stem, which locks the light into place. This has to be rotated counter-clockwise to loosen the fixture first. Once the ring is loose, the assembly will fall out easily.

There is a retaining hook built into the light and a latch on top of the receptacle you must loosen to free it. When you pull up on the this latch far enough, you will be able to pull the light out and replace it.

Place everything back in the right order and you're done!

On a 2003 Ford Ranger :

The 2.3 litre Dual Over Head Cam four cylinder engine , and the V6 engine(s)

use a timing chain ( or chains )

If you mean the timing chain cover is leaking oil , that should be repaired

( P.S. I'm not a mechanic / technician )

According to the 1999 Ford Ranger Owner Guide ( 5W-30 )

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.5 litre four cylinder engine and the 3.0 litre V6 engine take ( 4.3 litres / 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

The 4.0 litre V6 engine takes ( 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

What type of car? Asian sport car-Switch is on B pillar (that's where the door opens from) Most American sedans-Switch is on A pillar(that is where the door hinges are), Some others have the switch on the inside of the door attached to the latch claw, An example of this is late model ford. EITHER WAY YOUR PROBLEM IS IN THE SWITCH. Good luck, Jamison.

i love all ma mates out there ya'll got that :)

1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the REAR

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of vehicle

its mounted on the fender well under the hood on the same side as the battery, the positive battery cable will be connected to it

The bolts that hold the caliper in place on a 1997 Catera are 3/4 inch. The bolts that hold the caliper together are 7/16 inch. Probably the same hardware.

If you have a hydraulic clutch you may just need to add fluid.

4.9L cylinder order, from front to rear is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. The distributor rotates clockwise.

Pop the hood, and look at the engine. In the middle of the engine, there will be a row of black plugs connected to wires. Pull them out (there are tabs on the side you have to press in), and the spark plugs will be under them, inside the engine. You'll need either a magnetic or rubber coated socket to get them out since their in there so deep.

The radiator drain is located under the radiator (you may have to raise your vehicle to spot it beyond the shield). (1)Remove radiator cap and attach a 3/8" diameter hose to the drain fitting to direct the coolant into a container and then open the drain fitting with a pair of pliers. (2)Flush radiator with fresh water from a garden hose until water runs clear through the plug. (3)Refill with 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze. Piece of cake, huh!! The hardest part is locating the drain fitting which appears to be well hidden, but I think it is on the driver's side of the radiator. Good luck. By the way, intructions are from Haynes Repair Manual Ford Ranger 1993 - 2005.

I just did this job on a 2005 Sebring. Not sure if the 2001 is the same or not, but if it is, you need to remove the control arm and have a shop remove the old ones and press in the news ones. Those things are pressed in there EXTREMELY tight. I tried to use a ball joint press on it while it was still in the car and it bent/ruined my ball joint press. Unfortunatley, removing the control arm is not easy either. The back part of the conrol are you have to drop the brace that connect the 2 subframes together, which there are brake lines attached etc... That job is a royal pain. If you can, just pay your local Chrysler dealer to fix it.

If you're talking about a single cylinder (#8?) with this question, keep in mind that spark is not the only reason a cylinder would misfire. For example, a bad/clogged fuel injector, poor compression, or a bad ignition coil (if you have one coil for each plug) could also cause this code. Possibly burnt valve on that cylinder. Run a compression test.

Hey Kody==It should be printed on the fan shroud or in your owners manual. GoodluckJoe

This isn't too hard, but does take a while. Turn the car off & disconnect the battery. Set some blocks on the wheels. Turn the ignition on, and move the shift lever all the way to the right (low gear). Then, remove the screws from all the dash trim and (carefully!!!) pull it away - there might be some snap locks also, you don't wanna break those! After that, the panel comes out just by removing some screws. You disconnect the speedometer cable and the small string going to the gear indicator (again, be careful!!)

It depends on the gas you put

195/70R14

5x4.5"

Most likely the shifting fork is worn within the transmission. You did not say what car but most late models have no adjustment. This problem usually shows up in the highest gear. Sorry.

The 2.5 liter 4 cylinder , that has Fords twin plug ignition system , takes ( 8 )

spark plugs

Open the drivers door and on the end of the door is an information sticker

that shows the original size tires on the vehicle from the factory

OEM says: P215/65R16 96S