Ford Taurus

I had a 94 & 96 taurus and you had to take the ash tray out to get to it.

I believe the battery light is on because the RPM does not hit the 1400 rpm mark. The smoking is from the exhaust system being clogged or the air flow through the system. My bet is the exhaust. With the engine running, you should not be able to hold your hand blocking the exhaust system. If so, look at the exhaust.

Hard to say what a fair price is.Some guys might do it for $100 while others, like me would not do the job, because it will not solve your problem for very long.If those bearing are gone, chances are that the motor will need a complete overhaul. Rather than paying to overhaul an engine, I would buy a long block from advance auto or autozone OR get one from a wrecking yard who will give a guarantee that it runs.Replacing the bearings is just going to be a waste of your money regardless of what someone charges.

Try the "Related Link" below to the Autozone / Chiltons repair guide for the 2000-2005 Taurus fuel filter instructions.

Be sure to review the precautions & advice in the repair guide.

Typically it can be found attached to the frame on the passenger's side, underneath the seating area near the door or edge of the vehicle. It may have metal shield surrounding it. (NOTE: Always remember to relieve the fuel pressure before attempting any work on the fuel lines!)

Its under the passenger side rear door....

The fuel filter is underneath the body undercarriage, just follow the fuel line to the gas tank and you will see it under near the rear of the car near the tire strut.

You will need to jack up the RR corner of the vehicle to reach it. The fuel filter is fastened with a big clamp to the right side frame rail, close to the fuel tank, just ahead of the RR wheel. Use a small flat screwdriver to remove the two plastic clips from the lines attached to the filter. Be careful, the lines are under pressure, and there will be fuel that will spray out as you unplug the lines from the filter. Use a flat screwdriver to loosen the clamo from the body of the filter and then you can remove and replace the filter. Install the new plastic line clips that are in the box with the filter into the lines and then plug the lines onto the filter until you hear them click in place.

on the passenger side in front of the rear wheel you will see underneath just need flathead screwdriver pop the clips take the clamp loose and there you go.

on the passenger side in front of the rear wheel you will see underneath just need flathead screwdriver pop the clips take the clamp loose and there you go.

No there is only one, and it is on the underside of the car fastened to the right frame rail, back near the fuel tank.

Stop!!!

Dont use a screwdriver to remove the clips when removing the gas filter , as most people break them . These clips are easy to find for the older Taurus but the 2004 and newer are tough to find ,forget the dealer for these..

To remove the clip push down on the center of the top of the clip (not hard with nail ,pen or punch) this spreads the jaws of the clip. You can then slide the hose easily off while doing this at the same time. NO Damage . Who says you need a special tool. If you break a clip try NAPA NCK11 for the small one ,but there are about 3 or 4 types depending on the Model year. To put the hose back on the new filter, just press it on until you hear the clicking sound. Dont remove the clip from the hose end, it has a taper and is meant to be installed this way.

There are four small holes in radio face. I have removed radio by pushing in two small Allen keys in one side at a time and pull out that side by pushing sideways on Allen keys. Once that side is out slightly pull out the keys and install on other side and repeat pulling out radio. I found if someone else held radio it was fairly easy. Once radio is out just unplug the connections on back side.

If you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine the camshaft sensor is on the left hand side of the rearmost camshaft. It is black plastic about 2-1/2" in siameter and about 1/2" thick where are all sensors located?

Sounds like the engine is overheating.Air in cooling system or leak in system.

My brother's Daewoo Lanos 2000 (using the stantard E-TECH engine) which I have been working on since about 15,000 miles has since day one had the same ticking in the engine. When I went back to the dealership I was assured that there was no problem with the car and that all of the Daewoo that use the e-tech engine (which is now also used in the Chevy Aveo and the Kia Spectra) have the same characteristic ticking. When I expressed my disbelief the dealer took me around and let me listen to most of the daewoo left on the lot. It is true that they all shared the ticking. It seems poor engineering that creates an engine that ticks. After all the ticking MUST be caused by parts that are tourching, and after a while surely it will wear away. It is worrysome but as of yet I have been unable to find a cure for this praticular problem. If there are comments about this answer please email me: michael_w_dawson@yahoo.com

spray soapy water on belt while engine is running if noise stops change your serpentine belt if it still chirps you have a bad idler pulley or tensioner to make sure remove belt and spin each pulley by hand try to find the one that doesnt turn freely or noise

It's right on the chrome fuel rail that feeds gas to the injectors.

I would suggest the first culprit to investigate is the temperature blend door *actuator motor*.

Common point of failure, and easy enough to replace.

But, be sure to review the "Related Questions" below for more ideas and specifics...

how to disable power door locks on 2003 ford taurus,i don`t have the manual

1-4-2-5-3-6 for the 3.0 & 3.8 V6. The distributor rotates clockwise on the 3.0 & counterclockwise on the 3.8

Are you sure it has one? I do not think it does. Go here to make sure. Scrool down to cabin filters. http://www.fram.com/products/airFilters.php

Its between the lower and upper intake manifolds. It is part of the lower intake manifold and is covered by the upper intake tubing. It's like the surfer riding the ocean with the waves curled over head. In the 3.0 dohc's case the ocean would be the lower intake, where the oil separator rides while the upper intake manifold tubing curls over the top of if. If your lucky you can see just the leading surface with a flash light. The PCV valve is here. Start at the air intake end, look under the intake for a special Ford hose assembly; its 3 piece. At the air intake theres a elbow attached to the bottom, its diameter starts at about 1-1/2" and transends to about 5/8" at the plastic or metal formed tube (year dependant). That tube goes down and under the upper manifold where it attaches to a short 2" hose, which in turn connects to the pcv valve. The valve on my 02 is a black plastic piece. It inserts into the oil separator with a quarter turn to the right. It has a square flange about 3/4" back from the valves tube opening. I used a piece of 3/4" sq alumimum tubing (it has and Inner sq of about 5/8") to remove and insert my valve. It you can find a 5/8" 8 point 1/2" socket it will also work. I am told that the rubber elbow I mentioned above is the weak link in this system. It seems that after many hot/cold cycles under the hood that its material weakens and allows the systems vaccuum to collaspe the elbow. I could find this assembly at the dealer only and for a cost of about $32. The motorcraft pcv was $6 or $7. I am told however that the dealer is asking nearly $200 to install the valve. I havent asked them, so I hope this is an urban myth. Good luck.

It could cost up to $1000. Probably around $800 for the 1995.

I would expect a whole lot closer to $100 or less. It is an easy replacement - and no reason why you couldn't use a part from a auto salvage/junkyard.

Update: I just checked and an ignition switch is only $17 at Autozone.

Wherever you buy the part from should be able to help you find it - there's only 2 screws and a couple of wiring connectors.

The upstream 02 sensor is usually located shortly after the exhaust manifold, before the converter. That is the one that controls how the car runs. The downstream sensor, after the converter tells the computer if the converter is doing it's job or not. It does not affect performance, but you might have to live with a check engine light being on. There are probably 2 of each on a V6.

When you have a big vacuunm leak your car is not going you be able to suck the gas it needs into the intake because, the air it needs to do that, is coming from somewhere other than the throttle bore. So to stay running, the choke will have to be partially closed to help suck more gas down the intake. I know this because I asked the question yesterday and found out for myself today by trial and error!

an engine where, in the event that the timing is off or if the timing belt breaks, the pistons can collide with the valves and actually do damage.

Check the fuel rail and the top of the gas tank you mite try driving with the gas cap off pressure can do it to