Ford Taurus

The life span and overall maintenance of the air conditioning clutch can have a lot of impact on the life and efficiency of the vehicle's entire air conditioning system. It is important to understand how to inspect and change your vehicle's air conditioning clutch.. So i suggest you ask some advice from professionals or go to the nearest center that offers 24/7 Air con emergency services.

The TCC Solenoid is located on the valve body. In order to reach the unit you have to remove the Battery and Battery housing, Air Filter housing & Assembly, And the wiring harness brackets. You then have to support the rear of the engine and remove the Crossmember located behind the drivers side front wheel. There are 5 bolts and 1 mounting bolt. The TCC is secured by 2 bolts directly to the valve body. It is hard but this can be changed with the transaxle still in the vehicle.

If you get a clunky knocking noise from the pipes of your water system it is air-lock, like an air bubble in the pipes. The only way to get rid of it is to let the water run or if you have bleed-points bleed it (put an old towel down first) It is common for this to happen if you have turned the water off or drained the system for maintainance.

When mine would go, the engine would all of sudden stop running. Like if you were trying to compression start a standard engine. Only it happen to me when I was doing 80 kph. The it would start again. For some people, once it occurred the engine will never start. Ford did eventually put out a recall on them but that was a long time ago. The I went to have things repaired had told me that there is no real indication when they will fail. In fact, they had installed a new sensor into a truck and the next day the sensor failed. So until it fails just keep driving it.

The cooling system on this vehicle does not use a radiator cap on the radiator but on a remote tank. It may have a different (larger) cap on it than what you are used to seeing on the radiator.

Your car might kick when you shift from park to drive if your transmission fluid is low or very dirty. You might also have worn gears in the transmission.

go to autozone or VIP and ask to see the starter for your car in there are instructions with a diagram that may help you. sorry that is the best i can do wolverine

On the bottom side of the engine( front of the car) just below the exhause manifold. It is easiest to remove the mounting plate from the body of the engine, as balancing the coils on the module as you remove and insert screws if a real pain in the but. If anyone has any suggestions on waterproofing this area, I would greatly appreciate it, as I have gone through three of these modules in three years due to water getting into it and shorting the module out. This last time it was a coolant leak around a seal on the top of the water pump, spraying right into the module that caused it. Argh!

Hey Aaron==It is a pretty big job but if you feel up to tackeling it get you a shop manual on your car. It will have pictures and everything. Good luck Joe

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

You have to fix the problem causing it first. Find out what is missing. On some newer cars, it is easier to check for spark, than it is for gas. On other newer cars, it is hard to find out either, or, because of their lack of having high tension wires. What year/type car do you have? E-mail above.

Fuel pump gone bad? Relay stuck? Ignition module fried? Only two things will keep an engine from starting. Lack of fuel or lack of spark. The first step is to determine if spark is present by detaching a plug wire and carefully inserting a screwdriver or the like into the end and placing close enough to the engine block (metal) without touching it (1 inch or less) for a spark to jump. Have someone crank the vehicle and look for spark. If no spark then you have found the culprit. Bad coil or ignition module. CAUTION! You can get quite a jolt if you handle the wire while the car is being cranked. If you have spark then you need to determine if you have a working fuel pump. One method is to have someone turn the key from the off position to the run position (the position where the engine runs {just before the crank position}) a few times while you listen as closely to the fuel tank as you can get. You will hear the buzzing of the fuel pump if it is functioning. The other method is to locate the fuel line pressure hookup (it will be on the fuel rail. a valve not unlike a tire valve only larger) and depress the valve stem. It WILL SHOOT FUEL AT YOU. SO BE CAREFUL. Once you have done this cycle the key a few times and then depress the valve again. If it spits at you again the pump is circulating fuel, if not then the pump is not functioning. Y-THINK-Y Well i would check the spark at the plug first. You have to eliminate spark and fuel problems. If you turn the key you should hear you fuel pump engage. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's working. Once you know that the fuel is getting to the motor there are 3 things that I would check. 1. Crankshaft sensor (located on the transmission housing) 2. Camshaft indicator (located on the side of the block) 3. Ignition coil. (where all the plugs come from) The first two provide information to the PCM and if it doesn't get it the van will not start. It would help if I knew what year and model'engine size ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I certainly agree that these other sensors can be the cause but unfortunately to determine the source of problem beyond the simple spark or fuel tests it is best to have a diagnostic computer because there is so many little telemetric devices that will effect the computer that one could spend many, many hours and dollars replacing them one-by-one. This is when a pro should come into the picture. POST: It is my experience that an engine will not 'crank' at all if the crank sensor is bad. Y-THINK-Y

Any car after going through deep water will have problems starting.

cars aren't meant to be used as boats without proper protection, which could be costly.

cars need oxygen and gas to run (obviously), they take in air just like a motor bike.

you most likely flooded the entire engine with muddy water.

There might not be a cable. Some have an electronic pickup for the speedo, so what you will be looking for is a device with a couple of wires coming from, around the same place the speedo would normally hook up- the left side of the adapter housing for the transfer case.

The first thing that I would check is the wiring and the temp sensor @ the engine. Sorry but I do not know where the sensor is located on the engine. Usually they are not too hard to locate. i would replace temperature sender usual located near front of engine near thermostat housing

Hey where are the screws ... Right ! The entire lense assembly must first be removed and then it's just twist-n-turn and pop in a new bulb. To remove the assembly first remove the upholstery panel that runs from tailight to tailight inside the trunk. To do this remove the two plastic mushroom looking things on the panel. They have a place for a torx screwdriver but you can probably use a similar size hex wrench or even pliers since they did not seem to be too tight. The trunk light is on this panel so you you may want to disconnect the trunk light (or temporarily tape over the bare contacts) so you don't get a sparking surprise if you contact it with a wrench. Now you can see the nuts that hold in the tailight assembly ... remove all the nuts and carefully pull the taillight assembly away from the car body. If it is stuck, (and it probably will be), gently tap on the studs that the nuts were on with a rubber mallet (or use a regular hammer and a small block of wood to protect the studs). Don't hit the black plastic locator pins if you can help it. Keep tapping on the studs one-by-one and the assembly should release. Now that its out you will see a twist-n-turn connector with some wires hanging out of it. So just twist, turn, pull it out , replace the burned out bulb and reverse the entire procedure, There now wasn't that easy!

The 2000 Ford Explorer front hub nut has a torque specification of 140 pounds of pressure. The hub should not be over tighten. Over tightening can ruin the seal.

You might want to check the fuse box in the engine compartment. My headlamps would turn off at random, sometimes while driving. I used to open the hood and shut it and they would come back on. Then I figured out that there was something loose at the fuse box in the engine compartment and jiggling the wires solved the problem for good.

it is at the back of the motor there is a slot in the transmission top side it reads off the flex plate that the covertor bolts to On an automatic trans equipped truck it is under the trans dipstick behind the right cylinder head.

The low oil symbol on a 2000 Ford Taurus typically looks like an oil can with a drip coming from the spout. It may also have a "LOW OIL" indicator next to it.

look for the serpentine belt. this is a belt that has a long trail around many pulleys (power steering pump, alternator, water pump, AC compressor and a tensioner) and is about 1 inch wide give or take a 1/4 inch. your water pump has a hose coming out of it going to the radiator and another smaller one about the thickness of your thumb going to the firewall. The firewall is the sheet metal behind your dashboard. That small hose goes to the heater core so you'll have heat in the cabin area. if you still can't find the water pump back-trace the hoses from your radiator until you come to it. One caveat is that some ford/mercury models have the pump practically built into the engine while others stick out like a sore thumb and are bolted to the side of the engine. You really can't miss as it is the only thing with large rubber hoses attached to it. The only other pump device that runs off of the serpentine belt is the power steering pump. That one is easy to find b/c the rubber hose that goes from the power steering fill-up container should have power steering fluid printed on it. Follow that rubber hose which should be small, and you'll find the steering pump. The only thing left with hoses attached to it is the water pump.

i have a vibration in my gmc envoy when it idles and have been told that can be caused by a vacuum leak. i am currently trying to find out how to find the leak. advanced auto parts will loan you a pressure tester to try to detect the leak. i have not gotten the tester yet. would like to know where to look for it for this sort of leak before i get the tester and i am still in the process of getting that information.

Removal

Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.

Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect the breather pipe.

Remove the air cleaner.

Fully loosen the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve to exhaust manifold tube nut from the bottom of the EGR valve.

Disconnect the vacuum line from the top of the EGR valve.

Remove the EGR valve.

Remove and discard the EGR valve gasket.

Installation

NOTE: Use a new EGR valve gasket when installing the EGR valve.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Most times your tires are out of balance. Driving it in that conditions adds more problems so get that corrected tomorrow.

Shakes that develop at or above specific speeds are usually caused by tire balance. Misalignment can also contribute to the problem

OR IT GOT A LOWER TIRE TREAD ON BOTH SIDE LIK IF U SLAM ON UR BRAKES & THE TIRES SLIDE IT WILL IT LIKE MY PICKUP IS

Yes there is a crankshaft sensor