Ford Thunderbird

Speed is a warning u set it at a certain speed...if u go over the set speed a alarm will beep till u are lower tghan set speed

Yes!

1955

5W-30 is the preferred oil , according to the 1996 Ford Thunderbird Owner

Guide

All 61-65 Thunderbirds came with the 390 FE engine. No other engine available from the factory.

Transmission Range Selector Lever Removal 1. Place transmission range selector lever in DRIVE. Remove console finish panel (04567). Refer to Section 01-12 . 2. Remove ignition/shifter interlock cable (3F719) and disconnect cable from range interlock cam. 3. Disconnect transmission range indicator lamp/transmission control switch electrical connector. 4. Raise vehicle on hoist. 5. Remove range cable retaining nut from transmission bracket. Disconnect shift cable and bracket (7E395) from transmission control selector connecting rod adjustment stud (7B415). 6. Lower vehicle. Remove transmission range selector lever and housing retaining bolts and remove transmission range selector lever. Installation 1. Install transmission range selector lever to front floor pan (11135) with retaining bolts. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (54-70 lb-in). 2. Connect shift cable and bracket. Tighten retaining screw to 3-4 Nm (27-35 lb-in). Install retaining clip and connect transmission range indicator lamp wire. 3. Install console finish panel. 4. Place the transmission range selector lever in DRIVE and apply a 1.4 kg (3 lb) rearward force to the lever. 5. Raise vehicle on hoist. 6. Connect shift cable and bracket to manual control lever (7A256) and transmission bracket. Make sure manual control lever is in DRIVE and tighten nut at bracket to 13-25 Nm (10-18 lb-ft). 7. Lower vehicle and check range selector for proper operation. Â Removal 1. Open console glove compartment door (06024) to access screws toconsole finish panel (04567). 2. Remove two screws and lift rear ofconsole finish panel to unsnap snap-in retainers. 3. Lift rear ofconsole finish panel and slide rearward to release two front locating tabs. Removeconsole finish panel.

1-4-2-5-3-6

For future reference: The firing order of any Ford engine is usually stamped on the intake manifold, generally on the top in front of the carburetor/EFI.

Idle of 2000 rpms might be some kind of problem. Do you have any warning light on the dashboard? have the car been scaned?

1) Well, when the ignition module (Engine Control Module), detects a malfunction, due to some loss of signal, or sensor related problem, injectors, etc., there is a safe-function to have the engine working beyond optimal control; that is, minimum or default conditions for operation. In other words, engine idle-up = engine control failure.

2) When the A/C system button is ON, and the Compressor is working due to interior room temperature conditions, along with both fan coolers (radiatior and condenser), the ISCV (Idle system control valve or stepper motor) it is also commanded by the ECM to increase the rpm up to near 950. However that is not your case.

3) Other systems, like steering wheel operation, electrical consuming, like lights and so on, have the ECM to increase idle rpm.

4) Some important function that has the engine rpm decrease is the temperature control, done by the ECM. The temperature sensor, a unit gauge located in the thermostat housing, informs the ECM about the engine temperature. Once it warms up, after cold starting, ECM commands the Idle control Stepper Motor to decrease rpm to normal value, which is around 700 +/- 50, if no service is ON, and around 950 if A/C is on. If this sensor fails to inform such changes in temperature, then ECM might never commad the rpm decreasing.

5) the Idle control stepper Motor itself, which is responsible for proper idle rpm, may be the problem. The proper inspection of such part must be done. It works with 6-wired coils for the stepper motor, using around 6 volts. It is easy to be taken out and been inspected to assure free moving of the acting part as a valve. Check also the tightness of the 6-wired connection.

6) Finally, if everything goes just fine, there are two screws to check, having the stepper motor disconnected:

_ there is a screw covered by a rubber cap controlling a mechanical valve to let free air-by-pass for minimum idle rpm, as of no Stepper motor working, which is located top of the throttle body.

_ and a factory-adjusted screw that works as a stopping for the throttle mechanism when you release the pedal. It is located botton of the Throttle body; the more it is turned clock-wise, the more will be idle rpm with no acting of the stepper motor.

Hope this helps.

Starters can overheat because they are cranking for too long - It takes an enormous amount of amperage which = power and heat, to crank over some of the older motors- Or, the engine is stuck and the starter is trying to draw more amperage, which, creates heat, to turn it over. 10 seconds of cranking at a time is recommended with a few seconds for cooldown. If your engine won't start in that amount of time, you probably have an air/fuel delivery issue, or a weak battery that cannot turn the engine fast enough, or a bad ignition system.

I also have a problem with my 97 Tbird 4.6. Just an FYI, this car has 2 engine coolant temperature(ECT)sensors. One is on the passenger side and is for the sending unit to the dash gauge. The one on the driver's side is for the computer.

Anyway, when I try to start my car, hot or cold, the fan comes on with the key but the motor will just not start until that fan stops. This takes anywhere from 2-3 minutes. The "Service Engine Soon" light is on, it idles high at about 1800rpm, it runs and sounds like its only running on 6 or 7 cylinders(it's not), and the code reader says the problem is all three O2 sensors & the ECT sensor. I doubted that all three O2's would go out at the same time so I've been thinking it's the ECT. After lots of internet research, I finally ran across the following chart and tested my ECT as follows:

Take the driver's side ECT out of the car & place in a pan of water on the stove. With a kitchen thermometer, monitor the resistance with an ohmeter as you heat the water. The R at room temperature is about 37K. Follow the chart to see if the resistance coincides with the temp increase across the span.

I am curious as to why you think your problem is the ECT? If you ever want to discuss problems/solutions with our cars, feel free to write me at talktoschmidty@yahoo.com

I ended up changing my ECT because I really thought it must be my problem, but it did not help. Anyway, perhaps this chart will help you. Follow this link for ECT chart and many other sensors. And go up and down the pages for more info on your Ford. And good luck to you. Tom

http://www.wrenchead.ca/HTML%20Presentation%20folder/sld123.htm

Air

You will need custom motor mounts, and existing transmission will not bolts up as FE motors have a different trans bolt pattern than a small block.

Best to do an engine and trans swap together which also will require a custom trans mount as well.

Also you better build that small block up. The T-bird is a heavy car and you will need power to get it going. The 390 was rated at 300-315 HP but around 400 ft/lb of torque which got that big car moving.

If I could choose I'd do a 351W with an AOD or built C4. I think a 351 with AOD out of a Ford F150/250 best. The 351 can get you what the 390 had but in a smaller, lighter package and you'll get better fuel economy to boot. With a decent set of aluminum heads, cam, and intake, running 10:1 compression you could run a 4 bbl carb and make around 375-400 HP

Intrepid

200 Horse Power. The 5.0 HO in the 1991 to 1993 Thunderbirds had the same engine as the 1994-95 Mustang GT. 1993 Thunderbird with the 5.0 HO, had the same cam as in the 1993 Mustang Cobra. Only that year has it. The cam reduced Total HorsePower, but gained in Tourqe. 5.0 HO Thunderbirds are one of the best and rarly seen MN12 plateform. They Make Great Sleepers....

Usually old plugs. Take the nearest one out and look at it. If it needs changing go ahead and get a set. If it looks fairly new then check the gap on it. For mine the gap is .052" - .056". If you plan on keeping the car a long time do yourself a favor and get the better plugs that last longer. Its a squeeze for the passenger side.

If that doesn't help you may try "Carburetor and Fuel Injector Cleaner" and get those injectors clean.

Bad news you need a new transmission. these were the first year type with o/d clutch pack instead of torque converter system. Simply put this is an internal problem complete rebuild.

I went through 2 of these both ford OEM replacements the final solution was a Jasper Rebuild problem solved.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

There is a tiny gear in the odometer itself which is plastic and only lasts about ten years or less.

I just talked with a man today about my jeep liberty and i asked him why did the fan come on and why it makes the noise of changing gears and he said that if the gears don't change it just keeps running that means a sensor is out or malfuntioned on it hope this helps but i wasn't in there for that. I was there for a wheel sensor out again.

The codes are: P0172 System too rich Bank 1 P0175 System too rich Bank 2 P1443 Small or no Purge Flow Condition

The first thing to do is to check the fuel pressure. If it is too high, it will cause the engine to run rich. You may have a bad fuel pressure regulator.

The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) could be causing the problem as well. There is a procedure for testing the TPS, but it is rather lengthy. If you go to the Public Library, you can get the MOTORS Manual for your vehicle in the reference section. That will have the test procedure.

Another possibility is a bad Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS). This is a common problem.

You, also, can not discount the possibility of a bad PCM as well. Just don't throw parts at the problem. You would be better off paying a pro.

Also check the mass air flow sensor. If it gets dirty a false reading to the PCM could richen the injectors. Did you check you air filter??

it could be a cooling fan relay or the water pump is bad but i would say first the relay or the thermastate is sticking and not opening. bry

one

I have a 97 mercury sable, basically the same car. I found my low side connector on the firewall passenger side at the top. there is a high side connector sticking straight up next to the radiator refill, it is directly back from this. The problem I have is the recharge kit connectors do not fit. I am looking into it further and will post if I come up with anything, but the guys at the local auto parts store confirmed I had the right valve, but can't connect the recharge hose. Hope this helps.

Most computors are located behind the passenger side kick panel. That's the panel to the right of your feet while sitting in the pass seat.

It could be a clogged PVC valve.