Ford Windstar

Probably something is loose or worn... sorry to not be more specific, but you'll need to track it down to see WHAT is making that noise.

I guess that you are talking about a hydraulic lifter for an auto engine. There is no repair for these. They can be converted to "solid" lifters or used as paper weights.

On a 1998 Ford Windstar :

GL / 3.0 liter V6 engine ( 20.0 U.S. gallon )

GL / 3.8 ( 20 or optional 25 )

LX /Premium Package ( 25 )

God

Transmission fluid is low, dirty filter, leaking seals, sticking accumulator, etc.

if you have a leak in your transmition the best thing to do is NOT TO DRIVE THE CAR transmition damage may occur meaning $$$$$$$$. if you MUST move the car try adding more fluid. and since its leaking you may need to stop and add more very frequently. on the other hand try to see from where the leak is coming from it could be thru one of the transmition fluid cooling lines that may be loose or corroded that can easily be fix.

Ford Windstar was created in 1994.

Could be something as simple as some fresh double-backed tape to hold the glass, to a broke plastic glass holder.

Check out the "Related Questions" below for more details...

On a 1998 Ford Windstar , the 3.8 ( and 3.0 ) have the Electronic

Distributorless Ignition System ( EDIS ) so there is no distributor

* they use ( 1 ) coil pack that has ( 6 towers ) where the spark plug wires connect

From Mike Watkins at ClubGP.com:

I've snapped so many studs on my car I can do them practically in my sleep.

Here's what you'll need to do:

If you have access to basic shop tools, and compressed air, this will go unbelieveably easy. If not, it's going to be a little tough, and I would even go so far as to recommend taking it to a repair shop to have them do it. The small amount you would pay someone will protect your sanity if you don't have a good selection of tools.

With that being said, let's move on to what you'll need to get the job done...

First off, I'm going to assume you're replacing a stud on a front wheel, so this is the procedure I'm going to give you. If it's a rear one, the concept is the same, but they're somewhat easier.

Tools you'll need: 15mm deep socket Ratchet and/or breaker bar Air impact gun with 19mm socket Jack Jackstands Air or electric angle grinder Good size hammer 1/4" punch (drift)

-Get the car elevated and remove the wheel, and also the caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. -Rotate the hub so the broken stud is at approximately the 2:00 o' clock position -Take your punch and hammer and smack the remainder of the broken stud out of the hub. -Take your angle grinder and grind a small portion of the knuckle to allow for clearance of the replacement stud, and also grind grind a flat spot on the side of the base of the new stud. This will reduce the amount of material that needs to be ground off the knuckle. -Once the stud can pop thru into the hub, take a M12x1.5 lugnut with an open end and install it on the stud upside down with the taper facing you. Start it snug so the stud starts into the hub squarely. Take your impact and while watching the backside of the stud, tighten it up till it's drawn in completely. Your impact will probably just stop at this point. Reverse the impact, and remove the nut. -Reassemble your rotor, and caliper and reinstall your wheel. Torque all lugnuts to 100 ft/lbs and re-torque them again after 50 miles.

Even to a novice, this shouldn't take much longer than a half hour.

I've got it down to under 10 minutes.

Another approach - less work but requires right tools: Remove wheel, brake caliper and disc. Knock the old stud loose with a hammer. On the inside of the hub there are 3 bolt heads that hold the bearing assembly in place. Using a deep socket and a cheater bar for leverage, loosen these about 1/2". This allows enough clearance to remove and replace the bad stud. Tighten up the 3 back bolts, pull the stud into place using a stack of washers and a wheel stud nut, and you're in business with no grinding required.

A starter will seldom "go bad", but when it does, you will definitely hear a "grinding" or "dragging" noise as it rotates (usually is slow to rotate). That condition is called "starter dragging", caused by worn bushings. When the bushings wear, the starter will drag against the armature inside the starter hull, causing the slow rotation and "dragging" or "grinding" sound. A single click when you try to start the vehicle is usually indicative of a faulty starter relay/solenoid. Or possibly just a loose cable. A rapid clicking sound is usually caused by a low battery. Could also be caused by a loose cale.

Question 1: "How can you refill 1995 Ford Windstar 3.8 transmission fluid?" -->Answer: Get a cheap funnel, and a flexible tube that fits inside the dipstick tube, but is large enough that your funnel can be inserted into the other end of the tube (Walmart sells both btw.) You refill the transmission through the dipstick tube. If it is EMPTY, look up the capacity specifications, and put in just that amount. If it is not empty, go slowly, check often. Transmission fluid level generally should be checked while hot (no, I do not know why.) DO NOT OVER FILL. Question 2: "Why, when I start my car, put it in Drive and press the gas pedal, can I hear the engine running but there is no forward engagement, and the overdrive (OD) light is flashing? --Answer 2: The OD light flashes whenever there is a problem code sent from the transmission system. Otherwise, I do not know the answer to #2; I am looking for same answer, and that is how I FOUND this question! Hopefully by fleshing it out a bit, I can help both the original asker and myself.

Your dealer should do it because the grill and radiator must be removed to get to the turn signals.

There is a little white box, with a small plastic gear that opens and closes the blend door. The box also has temp control sensors that connect to the dash controls. The small plastic gear is stripped out, and will not close the door or moderate temp. Behind the large plastic piece under the ashtray.

(Blend door actuator, XF2H-19E616-FA-R247-B19791- MAN

Part #604203/$50.59 Advance Auto.)

dan.manning@yahoo.com

once per wheel rotation of tire. measure the diameter and X 3.14 equals distance traveled in one rotation.

60 mph x5280 ft per mile=316800 ft. divide that by distance travelled per rotation and you have it. measured in RPM.

The oil pump is bolted to the bottom of the engine block INSIDE the oil pan

on a 1995 Ford Windstar V6 engine

You would have an easier time changing out the whole control arm, you can get them on eBay for about 30 bucks a side.... i had to do that on my car... otherwise you have to get a ball joint puller... you can change the whole control arm in about 15 minutes and you only need a few different wrenches

Clean, then spray the area around the ball joint stud in the knuckle with penetrating oil a few days before starting the job. This will make removal of the stud from the knuckle much easier.

Tools required: (2) 14mm wrenches and a ball joint press, available for rental (usually free, with a deposit) at many auto parts stores

1. Remove the 14mm nut and bolt holding the joint in the knuckle.2. Pry the control arm down to pull the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. Note that this may require quite a bit of effort.3. Using a ball joint press, press the joint out through the bottom of the control arm.4. Press the new joint into the control arm, securing it with the circlip usually provided with the ball joint.5. Push ball joint stud back into the bottom of the knuckle.6. Secure the ball joint stud using the new 14mm nut and bolt usually provided with the ball joint.

Torque converter going out. Try adding some GM Limited Slip Additive to your transmission, about $9 for a small bottle at the Chevy shop.

very carefully

One could go to the PetDoors site or the site of HiTecPet to purchase a sliding glass pet door. While uncommon, these items can be found for purchase online.

This isn't too hard, but does take a while. Turn the car off & disconnect the battery. Set some blocks on the wheels. Turn the ignition on, and move the shift lever all the way to the right (low gear). Then, remove the screws from all the dash trim and (carefully!!!) pull it away - there might be some snap locks also, you don't wanna break those! After that, the panel comes out just by removing some screws. You disconnect the speedometer cable and the small string going to the gear indicator (again, be careful!!)

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The Owner Guide can be viewed online

215.70.15 is the stock size in 15".

225.60.16 is the stock size in 16".

I have got 225.70.15 to fit.

Has anyone got 225.75 to fit??

O2 sensor