Ford Windstar

In a car.

Yes - traction control is part-n-parcel with the ABS system.

I went all last winter with a bad sensor that left me with not only no ABS, but also no traction control..

Right after the last snow I fixed it up good ($45 and 30 minute repair).

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I just did my second set on my 2001 yesterday.

First, at least in my book: take the cowl off!

I've done this both ways and trust me, with the cowl off, the job gets a whole heckavalot easier!

I did a detailed write-up on getting the cowl off - See "Related Questions" below.

For years I said "do them one-at-a-time", with bold and italics.

But yesterday, I found when replacing the wires, it was easier to remove the back bank of 3 wires and transfer all the wire supports / looms with everything laid out on the workbench. Did the same thing then when doing the fronts.

If you're going to do that: label the wires! Don't mess up the firing order...

Otherwise, read through the "Related Questions" below for other ideas and suggestions.

One last thing: I went with the Autolite XP105 - xp indicating the "iridium" plugs, reputed to have a longer service life. $6.50 at Autozone along with their Duralast wire-set for $23.

Okay, one more last thing... Check out the pcv valve while you're back there - not just the plug, but also the condition of the hoses.

You replace the wheel bearing hub assembly - it has studs, bearings and wheel speed sensor around $100 part

Is that the one directly under the word "Brake"?

Yes... it is the brake warning lamp, calling attention to a detected problem with the brakes.

First thing to check is the brake fluid levels.

Second is that the emergency brake pedal is fully released.

Third - could be excessive brake pedal travel - having to push it too far. This might be the brakes are in need of repair / replace.

Anything else, have the brake system inspected.

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I have successfully changed my serpentine belt on my '96 Windstar. After fighting the tensioner nut my neighbor grabbed a pry bar and put it in the notch on the other side of the nut and belt it very easily moved the pulley down and relieved the tension and slipped the belt off. Leaving the bar in place and letting it pull backwards he rested the pry bar against the car while we put on a new belt. Pulling forward again and slipping the belt back over the alternator for the final touch. Forget the wrenches this was so simple I should sell the answer.

First, buy the correct belt, then look on the fan shroud which should give the route that the new belt should take. I'm my 95, it didn't, but the only thing I was doing was replacing the alternator, so I still knew how the belt went. Then release the belt tensioner nut, which is 18mm and hard to reach. Release this nut a few turns, then the tensioner will slide toward the side of the car, and the belt should fit on. To re-tension the belt I am considering buying a tensioner tool, which is a long handled lever for $35.00. If you need a diagram, email me.

New Edit

First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.

Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.

Note: A standard belt tensioner tool will not get the job done. Ford may have a special tensioner tool for the Ford Windstar, but I haven't found one. I used a non-angled 15mm 6pt box end wrench (longest one I could find) and used a section of galvanized pipe to slip over the wrench for leverage and was able to release the tension to change the belt.

Just replaced alternator on my 2002 Windstar. Found easiest way to loosen belt tension was by jacking up(and installing stands) front of van and having skinny son slide under. Could loosen tensioner for removal and re-installation with a **13mm**combination wrench and some grunting. Also, prior to loosening belt, I taped belt to all pulleys wherever I could reach them. That way the belt stayed in place.

My brother has a 1998 ford Windstar 6 cyl 3.8 engine. The drive belt tensioner broke. so He got a new replacement. He tried to put the serpentine belt ALL BY HIMSELF with no avail. just before he gave up. he call me. here is what we did: He installed the new drive belt tensioner using a 18 mm wrench without fully tighten the bolt. We routed the belt correctly (following the belt routing map under the hood). only leaving off the alternator pulley. now the only thing left was to put the alternator pulley. this was accomplished by us working simultaneously. while I grabbed the belt close to the tensioner and pulled it with all my strength toward the alternator to relief the tension ; my brother using both hands put the belt around the alternator pulley taking advantage of the loose belt. Once the belt was in place; He tightened the 18mm bolt fully. Mission accomplished.

New Edit

For my '98 Windstar 3.8 liter, the first issue is that the picture in the service manual pointed out the idler pulley as the Belt Tensioner; the BT is actually nearer the firewall. I loosened the bolt (18mm) that secures the BT to the engine and the BT pulley bolt(15mm) but was still unable to move the BT in any way.

I then put an ~8" loop of 1" webbing around the BT's arm, slid a crowbar thru it and using the top of the strut housing as a fulcrum, lifted the crowbar. The BT shifted and I was able to reach down with one hand and remove the belt from off the idler pulley.

# The sound is being transmitted through the fuel line, and may be originating somewhere else - like the fuel pump

# The interior part of the filter may have separated and is flopping around inside. Replace it.

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This sounds like you have a bad connection some where. Make sure the cable and wires on your starter and battery are good. Actually take them off to check them out.

Hi, sorry to jump in here, am new :) I had the same problem and after all the checks and money spending, changed the starter and now she starts like a dream. Hope it helps.

I have had this problem in my 94 wrangler and you will find that the colder it gets the longer it will take for the check engine light to come on. I have fought with this for a year spending money with garages and so I decided to replace the computer (about 300.00) and now it is like brand new. Starts right up and runs better too. I did change the computer myself and it took all of 15 minutes. It's located on the firewall under the hood on the driver side.

Your front bearings are sealed and are replaced only when they become noisy. A badly worn bearing will roar at speeds above 40mph and will change pitch somewhat as you change from lane to lane due to the side load that is placed on it. Tire noise (due to tires that need rotation) is sometimes mistaken for a worn bearing.

No need for interpretation - just what it said: the signal coming from the left rear wheel sensor is not there / missing.

It's most likely a failed wheel sensor... 20 minute replacement.

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"Sputtering" sound eh...

That's strikes me as the engine cylinders are starting to fire, meaning the starter is actually doing its job - turning the engine over.

I'd focus trouble-shooting towards fuel flow, spark plug / wire condition, etc.

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There isn't a modulator valve on the 1998 Windstar. Its all electonics these days. What you need to look for, is the Range Sensor that is bolted down on top of the Transmission, just under the Air Breather assembly. You can see the black sensor when you open the hood just in front of the drivers side. I had just replaced this due to the transmission slipping out of gear while doing 50-60 MPH. Normally doing this speed, the RPM would be at 2000 RPM. When the tranmission slips, the RPM shoots up to 3000 RPM and the Van goes out of high gear and looses power. The Range Sensor for a 3.8 Litre is Part Number F5DZ-7F293-BA. It's the flat black sensor with an electrical wire harness connection. It takes approx.1/2 hour to replace. Very easy installation and very cheap $50.00 Cdn to replace.

If the engine runs smooth after the start up, check the choke system and egr valve first. If these are ok, run a computer code check to see if any codes show up.

I just did this yesterday 7/10/06, I have fairly good mechanical skills and it took about 30 minutes to do this. You will need a 36mm Impact Deep Well Socket, a breaker bar with a descent extension of some sort, and 15mm Socket with a good 6" and 3" ratchet extension. Jack the one side of the car (SIde in which changing bearing), remove wheel, Take the two bolts out of the brake caliper and hang the caliper by a wire from the strut. Using the 36mm socket and big breaker bar, place it on the axle nut (Center most part of the wheel big nut), be careful not to scrape car fenders when loosening the nut. This is going to take a big amount of force to break the nut free so dont feel like you might break the nut you wont! The factory torques the nut to 287 ft lbs of torque so that means it will take you lets say 185lbs and a 2 foot breaker bar everything you got to break it loose! Once its loose back it off flush with the end of the half shaft. Take the 3 bolts out of the wheel bearing hub, they are on the other side located around the steering knuckle, the top one is difficult since the strut and half shaft are in the way, but this is where you use the socket extension and become ingenous. Once bolts are out use a hammer and carefully hit the axle nut to push the half shaft back into the CV Joint. DO NOT PULL ON THE HALF SHAFT, YOU WILL THEN BE SET BACK 100 BUCKS FOR A NEW ONE!!!!! Now hit the Wheel Hub flange until hub dislocates from the steering knuckle. Be sure to support Half SHaft and make sure it does not extend too far or damage to half shaft will occur. Also disconnect wheel hub sensor fromt he bracket. Place new hub in the same way you found it connect the wheel sensor back to original plug and tighten the 3 bolts on the hub. Tighten the Axle Nut back to 287 lb ft of torque and verify everything is snug. Put rotor and calipers back on and place back on wheel. Drive it down the road and verify there is no noise and that the "ABS" "Traction COntrol OFf" and "Service Vehicle Soon" lights are not present! I hope this helps and I assume no responsibilities for anything that may cause harm to the vehicle. This is what I did and this is how you do it for a lot cheaper than the dealer will charge you for something that is easier than changing the spark plugs! Take it easy!

Go to a book store and buy either a CHILTON or a HAYNES manual/repair book for your car's year, make, and model. AUTO ZONE HAS THEM.

These give you step by step illustrated instructions on 100's of repair procedures, ON YOUR CAR. It shows you in the proper order, with pictures, how to take it apart, and how to put it back together, properly.

Most of these books are about $15.00 USD, and are worth every penny.

The only problem here is they do not make an at home repair guide for any Toyota Tercel after 1994. Here is the kicker, every thing about the Tercel changed in 95 so finding info on the Tercel from later years is almost imposible unless you buy a shop owners manual for all Toyota compack models for like $250.

You have a problem with your transmission. If it is only occasionally on - it could be just overheating. A dealer can retrieve the code to find out what the problem is.

How do i fix the TPS pedal position sensor in a grand prix pontiac 2004.

For vans without the driver's side sliding door, begin by removing the middle row seating. Then starting behind the driver's seat and working towards the rear of the vehicle remove the side wall panels. Watch out for the "christmas trees" or plastic push in retainers behind the panels and hidden screws (screws that the upholstry has covered over) usually along the bottom of the panels just above the floor. Then it is just a matter of removing the 8-10, 10mm nuts that hold the window to the body. Window and frame are permanently bonded together and come off as one unit. While access is provided, now is a good time to clean and inspect rear a/c unit (if installed). To re-install reverse the above procedure.