GMC Sierra

Press the "On" button. Get to the desired speed. press the "set button" and rtake foot off of gas pedal and keep it near the break, incase you need to stop, don't forget you are driving a car still! To go faster hit "ACL" or "DCL to slow down. The break pedal will drop the auto dive and bring it back to manual. You must be going 30+mph to engage and use Cruse Control. Cruse Control DOES NOT TAKE OVER STEERING FOR YOU. I know an unnamed person who didn't know that and got in an accident...

The 2007 GMC Sierra (all trim levels except classic) has the newer style and more rare "pinch tab" wiper arms. See sources and related links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages - note that not all wipers will fit on pinch tab arms so be sure to reference the make, model and year of your vehicle for the brand wipers you choose to purchase. Pinch-tab compatible wipers are a little bit trickier to find. Locate and press the tabs where the wiper blade meets the wiper arm then tip or rotate the wiper down out of the tab attachment, then rotate slightly so you can remove the little hook at the end out of the hole. The video below shows this in the reverse order but you'll get it.

The one that says "HORN" on it.

See the Related Link for "1996 and Up Water Pump Replacement Procedure" to the right for the complete walkthrough with pictures.

They drive pretty good in the snow if you have the 4wd model. We had a record amount of snow last year ( 3 storms each dumping over 22''). Never had a problem.

in the gas tank.

You should have a "Rochester" carburetor on your 305 engine.

The "idle" mixture screws are hidden behind 2 caps (plugs) on the lower "front"

and left and right of the carburetor base. They are hidden (plugged) by the factory

and unless you are modifying the carb should not be tampered with.

But you can carefully grind or drill off the plugs with the carburetor off the engine.

(that is NOT RECOMENDED).

The screws require a special flexible carburetor mixture screw , screw driver to turn them. Usualy $10 to $15 dollars at parts store.

Spray with W-D 40 first, then count the number off turns and partial turns as you turn them in till they seat. DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN HARD. gently do this because you can damage the "point" on the other end of the screw and ruin the mixture ability of the screw / needle.

You probably have another problem somewhere else that leads you to believe adjusting those screws will cure a poor running condition.

Search, "Rochester four barrel,/ tuning, tips, tricks, idle mixture / Chevy 305 carb,

etc etc.

You can also get the part number of the carb itself located on the drivers side of the carb youll need to clean the small area and probably use a flashlight.

Dont use sand paper, soft wire brush at the most, and carb cleaner is best.

The number looks something like this,

ex: 17085227

3385 HLZ

this is off a "rochester" on a 1985 vehicle with a 454 engine.

Take the number, go to a knowledgable parts store like NAPA, not the big chain places (they sually don't have the technical expertise to do what im telling you) and have them check the carbs part number located on the drivers side of the carb housing verses the rebuild kit number verses the engine size the number applies to.

To make sure the right carb is on there. This is a relliable way to do it.

I bet yours is the wrong carburetor if its been replaced.

Also check thoroughly all vacum hoses connections tune up stuff etc.

it takes 7 quarts. 15w40 preferably.

is compressor clutch turning when ac is on.

you have to drop the fuel tank out from the bottom but make shure that fuel tank is etheir realy low or empty. there should only be a few bolts holding the cap to the gas tank and you just pull the fuel pump out, be careful not to damage the tank

in the radiator reservoir

You need to rent / purchase an OBD II code reader to check & reset the check engine light.

There are four oxygen sensors for this vehicle - two for each bank of cylinders. They are located on the exhaust pipes just ahead of and after the catalytic converters - sometimes referred to as "upstream" and "downstream" of the catalytic converters. Bank 1 refers to the bank of cylinders where cylinder number is located, which is the left or driver's sidde. Sensor 1 is located ahead of (closer to the engine) the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 is located after the converter. The same goes for bank 2.

Use a 1/2" socket wrench. From underneath the truck, put the 1/2" drive into the front of the tensioner pulley and rotate the tensioner in a downward direction to loosen the tension.

If you want to remove the serpentine belt, slide the belt off one of the pulleys with your other hand. Be careful not to get your finger caught in between the belt and the pulley if the tensioner moves back up. If you have a second person to help, have them slide the belt off the alternator pulley from the top side.

sounds like it could be the thermostat ================= The problem is probably in your cooling system. First, check your radiator and see if you have enough coolant. If that's not the problem, check for blockages. How old are your hoses? They may need to be replaced.

That will be a 700R4 transmission.

how do you replace the ignition switch on a 97 gmc sierra 4.3 ltr. c1500 v6?

I read this on Wikipiedia and did not believe it until I did it. My ignition stuck, key would not turn, had to have it towed home. Before I stated to tear it apart, I check to see if anyone had a run down on taking the tumbler out. I read a few and then spotted this one that said, "put you key in the ignition and whack it hard with a small two by four". I though, what the hell, it's going to take 3 hours to pull all this stuff out and to put it back, why not? Went out to the truck with all my tools and a small two by four. Stuck the key in the ignition, smacked it hard three or four times. It turn like a dream. I want to add that I had sprayed WD 40 into the lock about 6 hours before. It seems that it helps the key pins drop back into place.

The blower motor speed switch is burned out or the fuse is blown.

sound like you have "grabbing" brakes to me. i would check them for contamination and if they are then you will need new brakes and to replace all rubber components, and if your brakes are not contaminted i would start checking wheel bearings, warped rotor or drum, and the balance of your tires. i would check your rotor or drum first, that is most likely the cause

Buy yourself a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual at any auto parts store.

The same way you would change them on any other vehicle

No. If you have an AUX button then an aftermarket sat radio can be installed if not...then it isn't possible. If you have a BOSE radio then you will have to have GMC 'flash' your radio.

Between 1985 and 1993 it had 190 horsepower. 1994 had 210 then it went back down to 195 in the following years.

Located on the tail of the transmission usually on the drivers side is where the vehicle speed sensor is located. Look for a round plug fitted in a hole on the casting that has an electrical socket and is held in place by a single 10mm bolt and small bracket. Unplug the wires at the connector by gently prying the latches away from the plug and gently pull plug out of the connector. Be careful not to damage the two seals on the outside of the plug and secure the wire out of the way. Remove the 10mm bolt. Carefully pull or pry the speed sensor out of the casting. Replace the broken sensor, install the bracket bolt, and plug in the wires.

Usually between 4.5 and 5 US quarts.