Honda Accord DX

Check for "coolant" loss/leaking near the pump....also you may hear Squealing" type noises coming from the pump. If the pump is "accessable" try moving the pulley back and forth to see if it is "loose" [meaning the bearing in the pump is worn out]

I had this problem just the other day. After asking around I finally figured out that I had to change the oil pressure sensor. This sensor is located above the oil filter. I used a socket wretch to unscrew the old one and replace with a brand new sensor. This solved my problem. Hope this helps.

beast way to describe it, put your front end on jack stands, crawl under on the driver side, look up and to the right. it is located behind the right wheel inside the engin compartment. You'll need to work from underneath mostly. but may fin you need to jockey it into position from the top.

You have to remove the panel around the cluster which has 2 screws at the top facing upward. Once removed pull from top down and gently pull towards you to release the 2 clips holding it in from the bottom. That will expose the instrument cluster which has 4 screws securing it. Remove those screws and pull towards you gently and release the connectors then remove cluster. You'll have to remove the bulbs and the white cover to expose the speedo and its screws. Be gentle when removing the white cover(clips and screws). P.S. get the speedo from a scrap yard and save yourself some money. Good luck, RICK

No. It has a timing belt, and has an interference engine also. If the belt snaps, it may do a number on your engine. You can find this info at www.napaonline.com, by inputting your vehicle information, and then searching through engine parts, and then camshaft and timing components, for any listed vehicles. The direct link for your car is http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(qwq0gk45gmcmi14532xw4b45))/Results.aspx?Ne=25000&N=599001+102004+50032+2032004+25010 . --Tom.

You first disconnect the battery, then drain the cooling system, discount belt from engine and water belt pulley, then remove the water pump bolts and remove the water pump, then you install the new water pump and put everything back.

I think it's an 18"

Almost the same all the way around.

The flat surface was pretty even but not exactly straight.

Have a 1989 Honda accord with carburetor, My problem is will not run, Put gas in carburetor and it will run, Changed the fuel pump still no go, From my Research sound like fuel pump relay, What I need to know is the fuel pump main relay and the fuel cutoff relay the same thing? Thanks in advance for any help.

Sound like your fuel pump relay is not working. Did you check your fuses?

Fuel pump relay and fuel pump cut off are NOT the same thing.

If you replaced the fuel pump is more like your fuel pump RELAY is bad.

QUESTION. did you replaced the 2 filters on you gas line??

maybe you have a plugged filter.

hope this help you some.

You remove the transmission from the vehicle. The throw out bearing is the bearing around the shaft that goes through the flywheel when the transmission is installed. The bearing clips in easily and is held in place because it goes around the shaft, and the clutch release arm can only move in and out, so the bearing will never be displaced during typical use. Removing the transmission is a big job, and you might as well replace the clutch while you're in there, unless it's already new.

Easy, look under front end of the pilot and then look to the right side front of the transmission. It is a drain plug that colored blue. It is easy to see and when you find it. Use a normal richet , I think a 3/8 to take it off. The richet itself will fit in the slot. I fill it from the dip stick near the battery.

Probably an issue with the parking brake switch.

To fix the bent valves you'll have to do a bit of work to just get at them. You MUST buy a manual for your car which has the torque specifications and head bolt sequences. First you'll need to remove the head of the motor-- this is the part which holds the valves. It needs to come all of the way off and this takes a bit of time. It involves disconnecting a lot of items and sometimes removal of the whole engine. Again, get a manual. After the head is removed, you'll need to take it to a shop and get them to replace or fix and reseat the bent valves. This can be pricey. However, with a twenty-year-old car, it may not be worth it. I would say $200-$300 just to have the head work done. You can try to do this work yourself, but not even professional mechanics do it, they just send it to the shop. Everything has to be perfect for it to function right and seal properly with the cylinders again.

Ok, so after you've had the head worked on, you've gotta to reinstall the head, which involves buying a new head-gasket set (which can also be pricey but expect around $100 or more) and it has to be put on PERFECTLY. No messing around. Don't apply any gasket sealer or anything, just the gasket, but your manual will tell you exactly how to do it. Just remember, you need to torque it down to exact specifications and in the right sequence-- which means you need at least 1 if not 2 torque wrenches. You may need one for foot pounds and one for degrees. Look into this more if you don't know what this means.

After you have the head reinstalled, put everything back together, set your timing perfectly, and start her up.

If all this sounds expensive and time consuming, it is. You presumably need the new timing belt that broke, and should also replace the water pump if it is part of the timing assembly. I'd also recommend getting new timing tensioners and a camshaft seal, valve cover gasket, and front crankshaft seal. The reason for these extra parts is that since it's an older car, it's likely one of these will fail eventually too. IF they do, your timing will snap again and you'll bend the valves again and be back at square one. So, since they aren't very expensive, you should do it since you are sinking all this labor and money into it already.

However, I would walk away if I were you. Generally, if you have to ask how to replace valves, then you can't do the labor yourself (this coming from a guy who just took on the job himself!). And so many other things are bound to break down on a twenty year old car, that you may scrap it in 6 months anyway.

rear wheel drive

Cause it's a hooptie..

Yes, all Hyundai vehicles must have the timing belt replaced before 60k, otherwise in the event of a timing belt failure warranty of damaged components is voided and it can be very expensive! Also depending on

your mechanical apptitude, you may want to take the vehicle to a shop

for this service, it is very intensive.

have you checked the fuse?

first you have to disconnect the est wire under passenger side by the heater core its atan wire with black a stripe . it has a quick disconnect. this will inable the electronic spark control.timing is 0 before top dead center when your done reconnect the est wire.

The easiest way to locate the coolant tank is to follow the small black tube that is connected to the radiator cap and follow it to a plastic container. The year of your Honda will determine if it is on the left or right side of the radiator.

go to dealer / to manual overide there is a screw in the top part take it out there is another screw turn it clockwise until you can move the belt. FYI The dealership will not do it for liability reasons. They won't disable seat belts, they recommend calling the D.O.T.

Factory recomendation is 60k miles for "severe service" or 105k miles for "normal service". Industry standard has been 90k miles. A good time based interval would 6 years unless mileage interval happens first.

Through the trunk you'll find 3 screws on each speaker that are holding on the speaker covers. Unscrew those, then from inside your car the speaker covers will lift right off. Also while your in the trunk your going to want to unplug your existing speakers. After you've done those two things, from the inside of your car, lift off the speaker covers, unscrew your existing speakers and lift them out. The 95 Accord comes from the factory with 6 1/2 in. speakers so this means that the speaker bracket or adaptor holding in the speaker is only that big. 6x9s dont fit in the factory bracket, you'll have to take that one off and buy an adaptor that will fit a larger size.

Hey Josh==It sounds like you have a bearing going out of a water pump or alternator. The best way is to get a stethescope for about$20. it makes short work of finding noises. Or you can get a 3 foot length of hose and listen at one end while moving the other around to different spots to find the noise. If you can take a belt off of the alternator and still have the water pump turn, that may do it. Goodluck Joe

It's also possible that the noise you are hearing is just the valve-train. Does the noise go away or get quieter once the engine is warmed up? Does the speed of the ticking increase with engine RPM?

If it a big concern, a qualified mechanic will be able to tell you if it's the valves or not just by listening.