Honda Accord EX

Answer

U joints can last one heck of a long time unless you abuse them. Spinning your tires on dry pavement will certainly help to destroy them or spinning your tires on ice then hitting dry pavement will almost certainly end their life cycle. If you want your U joints to last as long or longer than the manufacturer says on the box that they come in, treat them with kindness, don't spin your tires unless you have no choice and you should get a couple of years out of them.

I love lamp.

Easy. I have an 87 Accord, so it's probably similar. First you find the speedometer cable that runs across the top of your engine and into the side of the transmission. On the other end it enters the fire wall right where the instrument cluster is. You will unclip the end that is attached to the transmission and pull the cable out. In my case, the broken end was at the other end by the instrument cluster. You have to just start taking out screws to get take out the instrument cluster. Once you get that out, the cable simply clips in there as well. Viola, replace the cable. Easy. I have an 87 Accord, so it's probably similar. First you find the speedometer cable that runs across the top of your engine and into the side of the transmission. On the other end it enters the fire wall right where the instrument cluster is. You will unclip the end that is attached to the transmission and pull the cable out. In my case, the broken end was at the other end by the instrument cluster. You have to just start taking out screws to get take out the instrument cluster. Once you get that out, the cable simply clips in there as well. Viola, replace the cable.

It is on because there is a problem with the air bag (SRS) system. It will be reset when the problem is repaired. Working on the SRS can be very hazardous and for that reason this is not a DIY repair. Take the vehicle to a professional for repair.

TCM A/T controller circuit - this is what my OBD scanner says

My wife just bought an Accord EX-L yesterday and I was told that it has a timing chain. Also, the site zercustoms.com states, "A silent-chain drives dual overhead cams and four valves per cylinder." The link is here: http://www.zercustoms.com/news/2008-Honda-Accord-Powertrain.html

Like other Honda V-6 powerplants, the Accord V-6 cylinder heads are a single-overhead-camshaft design, with the cams driven by the crankshaft via an automatically tensioned toothed belt.

About 10.00 to 15.00 dollars

usually just an oil change light. when you get your oil changed push your key into the little slot right by that light. it should go back to green. it usually goes on around every 3,000 miles, as a reminder for you to change your oil. goodluck!

if you try to replace gas cap already, 99% would be your two way valve by the gas tank.

p1456 means you have a leak in your evaporative system which collects the evaporative gases from you fuel and reroutes them back into the intake. you will notice increased fuel usage and possible overheating problems. there is a possibility that it might only be the fuel cap, but it is also possible that it is a much greater problem, as in a hole in the wrong place...

This kind of misinformation is why you can't trust the internet for correct answers.

You would be hard pressed to make a reasonable case for a P1456 causing any kind of overheating. Somewhere your fuel tank is unable to hold the fumes inside without releasing them into the atmosphere, thus causing pollution. That should in no way cause increased fuel use or overheating. A test is available for that concern using nitrogen gas being pressurized in the fuel tank/vapor recovery system to pinpoint the leak so you are not just throwing money at it guessing.

Yes it does

Yes.

Does the opening look like your ignition key would fit into it? If so, it is likely to allow you to shift the car out of park without inserting the key into the ignition. You would simply insert your key into the slot, and the shifter should unlock. Try it.

In matters of Children being removed from the home, SRS stands for Social and Rehabilitational Services. It is a Federally run organization in each state that takes care of TANF, Food Stamps, Medicaid, and Child Protective Services. They do several things that involve the well being of children.

There is a brake sensor assembly that has gone bad. Down by the top of the brake pedal is where it is located. if it is bad it will not let you shift out of park and your brake lights will not light up when you depress the brake pedal as well. The part can be purchased at a Honda dealer for $60 plus dollars or you can buy on at NAPA for $38.50 It was really easy to install all you need is a small wrench to losen a nut and then thread the new one on. Taking the electrial wiring clip lose was the hardest part because it is in such a small space under the steering wheel by the brakes.

alldata.com

Click the link.

Pull em off and put in new ones.

I have a 1998 sienna w/160,000 miles. Original owner. I get about 20 around town and 25 or better on highway driving.

It is the ratio of cumulative heat drop to isentropic heat drop in a multistage steam turbine.

Yes!

Some say, "Take it to a repair shop. They have to be pressed on." This is completely incorrect. There are two alternative methods for accessing the front rotors (or the outer hub - as in the case of broken wheel stud replacement).

The design in question is the "hub over rotor" or "trapped rotor" used on the front wheels of these older Hondas. The outer bearing/hub has to be pulled apart from the inner bearing in order to remove the rotor.

First, remove the axle nut. Use a breaker bar and a 36mm socket. Leave the car on the ground to loosen the nut initially, then jack the car to remove the nut.

Two ways to do to the hub or the hub+rotor:

1)USING A SLIDE HAMMER

Four bolts connect the outer hub to the rotor. To remove only the outer hub (that is, leaving the rotor on) - as in the case of replacing broken wheel studs...

-remove the four bolts that connect the hub to the rotor

-attach a slide hammer (loaners available at most auto part stores) to two of the wheel studs (lug bolts)

-give the hammer a few good strokes (I've gotten it off in one stroke)

-to replace the hub, use the hammer to seat it back in place

Of course, if you need to remove the rotor in addition to the hub, disconnect and move the brake caliper assembly out of the way. Support the loose caliper assembly with a wire hanger so as not to damage the brake hose. Once the hub is off, the rotor is free to remove.

2)USING TWO LONG 10MM X 1.25 BOLTS

There are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor; remove two of these (the ones closest to the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions) and re-insert two 10mm x 1.25 three inch long or longer well-greased bolts; when these two new bolts (they should be available at Ace Hardware) contact the backing plate (which will be supported against these bolts by the inner hub), alternate tightening them until the outer hub (attached to the rotor) separates and can be pulled away from the car. Remove all 4 bolts (the two new long ones and the remaining two original ones) and the rotor will separate from the hub.

timing chain ( on the 2.8 liter 4 cylinder diesel and the 3.7 liter V6 gas )

Check the Coolant system, there is a coolant temp sensor that will cause the engine to do this if it is not actually in contact with the coolant. You will need to vacuum drain the coolant, refill then bleed all the air out of the system. On my legend this happened until realized the radiator cap was bad, it had lost it's seal so the coolant system lost pressure. I didn't realize because the coolant reservoir was full, but there was no pressure to pull the coolant through the system. It could possibly be the idle speed motor needing to be cleaned as well. Once I cleaned mine I haven't had any problems ever since.