Honda Accord EX

Some say, "Take it to a repair shop. They have to be pressed on." This is completely incorrect. There are two alternative methods for accessing the front rotors (or the outer hub - as in the case of broken wheel stud replacement).

The design in question is the "hub over rotor" or "trapped rotor" used on the front wheels of these older Hondas. The outer bearing/hub has to be pulled apart from the inner bearing in order to remove the rotor.

First, remove the axle nut. Use a breaker bar and a 36mm socket. Leave the car on the ground to loosen the nut initially, then jack the car to remove the nut.

Two ways to do to the hub or the hub+rotor:

1)USING A SLIDE HAMMER

Four bolts connect the outer hub to the rotor. To remove only the outer hub (that is, leaving the rotor on) - as in the case of replacing broken wheel studs...

-remove the four bolts that connect the hub to the rotor

-attach a slide hammer (loaners available at most auto part stores) to two of the wheel studs (lug bolts)

-give the hammer a few good strokes (I've gotten it off in one stroke)

-to replace the hub, use the hammer to seat it back in place

Of course, if you need to remove the rotor in addition to the hub, disconnect and move the brake caliper assembly out of the way. Support the loose caliper assembly with a wire hanger so as not to damage the brake hose. Once the hub is off, the rotor is free to remove.

2)USING TWO LONG 10MM X 1.25 BOLTS

There are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor; remove two of these (the ones closest to the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions) and re-insert two 10mm x 1.25 three inch long or longer well-greased bolts; when these two new bolts (they should be available at Ace Hardware) contact the backing plate (which will be supported against these bolts by the inner hub), alternate tightening them until the outer hub (attached to the rotor) separates and can be pulled away from the car. Remove all 4 bolts (the two new long ones and the remaining two original ones) and the rotor will separate from the hub.

timing chain ( on the 2.8 liter 4 cylinder diesel and the 3.7 liter V6 gas )

Check the Coolant system, there is a coolant temp sensor that will cause the engine to do this if it is not actually in contact with the coolant. You will need to vacuum drain the coolant, refill then bleed all the air out of the system. On my legend this happened until realized the radiator cap was bad, it had lost it's seal so the coolant system lost pressure. I didn't realize because the coolant reservoir was full, but there was no pressure to pull the coolant through the system. It could possibly be the idle speed motor needing to be cleaned as well. Once I cleaned mine I haven't had any problems ever since.

State quarters struck slightly off-center and out of collar generally sell for $10 or less. However, major off-centers (like 50% off) will sell for over $100 You can do some searching on ebay.com in the quarters or errors sections to see what recent sales have brought.

Inside the transmission.

It has no governor. The speed is computer controlled.

I think it's an 18"

The flasher relay is located above the fuse box/fuse panel on the left side of the driver's foot-well. To access it, you will need to lower the black plastic panel above the brake and accelerator pedals. You no not need to remove any screws, the panel is held-on by 3 clips at the front (side closest to driver's seat). The relay itself can be found on the top-right corner. It is typically a black box. To be sure, turn on your 4-way flasher (assuming that this works) and follow the clicking sound. From my understanding, the flasher relay is a dual-relay, acting as the relay for both the 4-way hazards and the turn-signals.

Valve adjustment needed is a possibility.

It is under the ash tray in the center console. Just remove the tray and you will see it..............

remove timing cover, on the left cam sprocket(closer to inside of vehicle) you will see the letter (I)for intake and a notch above it on the valve cover align those marks.Next on the right cam sprocket you will see the letter (E) for exhaust and a notch above it on the valve cover align those marks.Last you have a notch on your crank sprocket, align that notch with the arrow just above it.Align all marks then turn belt to revolutions and see if marks are stilled aligned if not try again until you get it right.If so put everything back together and "happy driving!"

SAE 5w30 any major brand of your choice.

typically 5w30

If a gas light stays on a 2000 Honda Accord the fuel sensor is malfunctioning. Replacement of the sensor is advised as the car will run of safe mode if the ECU believes it is low on gas.

Trouble code P1794 means: A/T (TCM) Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction

I would look for a tire that is out of round or a bent wheel. I would place each one on a balancer and watch the horizon of the tire for a out of round condition. Do the same for a possible bent rim. You see, you can balance a bent rim and a out of round tire...This should have been caught at that time. If your shop seems unresponsive to this, go to a different shop.

I've been wondering that myself. I'm having a problem with my door locks. I have the same problem with my 1999 Saturn SL2 model. It has electric locks with a remote keyless entry. I went to lock my doors as I was inside the car, driving, and all 4 locks seized up and began clicking. A day later, I can not use my remote entry thing nor can I unlock or lock my car from the inside. The alarm system prevents me from locking the door, but even if I did, the locks would still click and they'd all wind up unlocked before the day is over with. Even if I manually lock the doors from the inside, the locks start clicking and by the time I get where I'm going, they are all 4 unlocked and clicking away.

If you've gotten answer, please respond to Sacrificialclam@aim.com with "SaturnSL2" in the subject. I can't afford for Saturn to look at it. They'll charge me $95 for a service call only to tell me the problem is going to be expensive to fix. The guy at Saturn told me that you couldn't turn off the alarm system. I'm betting you can.

Its not a for sure thing but not worth putting off the required belt change. I have seen a belt break and there be no damage but I have also seen severe damage done. Always change the belt and tensioner at the required interval ( around 60,000 ) or whenever work is done to the front of the engine.

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: White/Yellow

Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Red

Radio Ground Wire: Black

Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black

Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A

Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Yellow/White

Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A

Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2?

Front Speakers Location: Doors

Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Green

Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Black

Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Red/Green

Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Black

Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2?

Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck

Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Yellow

Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Gray/White

Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red/Yellow

Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White

It most likely means that the unit is working as it should.

Some explanation is in order...

First the air conditioner in your home is designed to cool the air. When air cools, any moisture that is in the air gets squeezed out. This is called condensation.

Most air conditioners have a condensate pan buildt into the unit, and a line coming out of the pan through which the condensate can and will flow under normal conditions.

Most units also have a secondary drain line. if water is comming out of this line then the firs is possibly obstructed.

Hope this helps

Terry

Good explanation but if I'm understanding the definition of overflow tube it means you have problems. In my house, one of our A/C units is in the attic and has 2 drains. It has 1)a primary that drains to the house sewer system and 2)a catch pan under the unit that drains to a pipe and empties outside under the eaves. This is the overflow. If you see water dripping from a pipe outside, it means your primary is clogged and it should be fixed SOON. If the overflow also clogs, you'll have water damage to walls, ceiling, floors etc. We live in Texas and our air conditioner will remove gallons water from the air in a normal day. Imagine if it has nowhere to go.

Riley

it means for something to be repeated over and over again

Burnt valve, blown head gasket, hole in piston, severely worn compression rings.

under the drivers seat

Depends on what vehicle the tire is mounted on. The correct inflation psi is listed in the owners manual and on the drivers door post. The pressure listed on the tire sidewall is not the correct inflation pressure. It is the maximum pressure the tire can handle.