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Honda Accord LX
The Accord LX was launched in 1978 as a 3-door coupe and was later re-designed as a 4-door hatchback and 4-door sedan. The latest model is available as a 4-door sedan powered by a 2.4 liter engine.
4,658 Questions
Where is the relay switch located on a 1990 Honda Civic DX?
Ours is a 1990 Honda Concerto. Right hand drive (Australia) The relay is located in the centre console behind the radio, so easily accessible.
check and see if ur e-fan is working The fact that it is heating up when you stop indicates that there is not enough air flow through the radiator to provide proper cooling. The likely culprits are related to the electric radiator fan. 1. Temperature sensor/switch. 2. Electrical connectors. 3. Fan motor.
Several Reasons
1. It's old -- Have an auto parts store check it for you. They usually don't charge for such things.
2. It's loose - Same as above
3. The squeak could be coming from the water pump rather than the fan belt- If it's neither #1 or #2 try to find a friendly auto mechanic who will listen to the squeak and suggest a cause and repair.
Why does the ABS light come on and stay on in my 1994 Honda accord?
Because it needs (the correct) brake type fluid in the ABS reservoir. They tend to look full when they are not; but don't over fill it.
At least... So check that first; then reset the computer codes (Remove radio fuse, under the hood; but remember, you will need your radio, anti-theft code, to enter in your radio.)
It could be mechanical or it could be electrical. Sometimes if you park on a steep incline or park hard up on a curb, the shift will be difficult to come out of park but it should with a little extra pull on the lever. Also, check the fuses. many vehicles today must have the brake pedal applied to release the shift lever from park. If the fuse is blown that protects that circuit, the shift lever will not move.
Can you replace an automatic transmission on a 2000 Honda Accord ex v6 to a manual transmission?
Yes, that is possible. But you would need a donor car in order to have all the parts necessary. Otherwise the cost of doing this would be astronomical. My advice is to sell the Honda with an automatic transmission and buy a Honda with a manual transmission.
Does a 2010 Honda Accord 2.4L DOHC have a timing belt or timing chain?
It has a timing chain that requires no maintenance and should last the life of the engine. The V6 has a belt that must be replaced every 105,000 miles.
2.4L has timing chain, but check water pump and belts after 105,000mi or older.
How do you replace the spark plugs on a 1998 Silverado 1500?
what you wanna do is take tape and mark your wires as you pull them off the spark plug only and one at a time (the tape is there just in case you knock another one off) along the drivers side of the engine from front to rear is as follows 1,3,5,7 with wires marked pull #1 wire off plug and with proper size (spark plug socket) and 3/8 drive ratchet begin to go left with the socket and plug. take old out put the new back in and put the wire back ont to the new plug repeat for all cylinders. the passenger side is 2,4,6,8 from front to rear just do the same procedure on that side with all wires taped its pretty easy good luck
How do you replace the idle air cotrol valve on a 1990 Honda accord lx?
It's rediculously simple. Disconnect the coolant hoses running into the bottom, make sure they stay pointing up so you don't make a huge mess (There'll be some mess made). Unplug the control wiring from it, then just unbolt it.
How to change rotors on a 1993 Honda Accord?
remove caliper, remove 4 bolts located on the back of rotor hub assm. removing axle nut can allow the axle to "wigle" around enough to get all 4 bolts. gently tap from behind and rotor/hub assm will fall out . then you can access the 4 rotor to hub bolts
To remove a front rotor: slightly loosen the lug nuts of one tire, safely jack up that side of the car only, put a jackstand in place, remove the lug nuts and the tire. Remove the two long bolts that retain the brake caliper, lift the caliper out of its bracket and secure the caliper out of the way so there is no strain on its rubber brake tubing. Remove the two bolts that hold on the caliper's bracket, and remove the bracket, leaving the brake pads in the bracket. Now remove the large center hub nut from the spindle. If you don't have the proper metric socket, a 1 & 7/16 sae will work. The opposite tire must be fully on the ground and blocked to prevent the hub you are working on from turning while you are trying to remove the hub nut. Also, the emergency brake must be on and the rear tires must be blocked to prevent car from moving. The hub nuts both have normal threads (turn cc to loosen). The hub nut is a bearing adjustment nut and so should not be torqued tight; however it may very well be corroded very tight. If it is, use a corrosion-loosening spray. If you don't have heavy duty air tools, try using a heavy 1" bladed chisel on the middle of all the flat parts of the nut (NOT on the edges that the socket must push against!) to loosen the stuck nut and urge it to turn cc. After enough pounding with hammer and chisel, and frequent spraying, hopefully the socket will be able to remove the hub nut. [It is a good idea to buy new hub nuts for re-installation, because the hub nut must be retained in its proper bearing-holding position by using a punch to deform the thin outer lip of the hub nut into the notch of the spindle threads, NOT by tightening the hub nut. This thin outer lip can easily tear away with repeated punching, rendering it incapable of preventing the hub nut from coming loose, a dangerous safety condition.]
There are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor; remove two of these (the ones closest to the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions) and re-insert two 10mm x 1.25 three inch long or longer well-greased bolts; when these two new bolts (they should be available at Ace Hardware) contact the backing plate (which will be supported against these bolts by the inner hub), alternate tightening them until the outer hub (attached to the rotor) separates and can be pulled away from the car. Remove all 4 bolts (the two new long ones and the remaining two original ones) and the rotor will separate from the hub.
Additional info: Lots and lots of people needlessly struggle with the axle nut. Here's how to beat it once and for all: go to AutoZone or wherever, and buy the 34 mm socket, and buy an inexpensive 1/2" drive breaker-bar, 20 inches long or longer, at Harbor Freight or ebay. Both of these tools can be had for less than $50, which won't get you a half an hour of time in the dealer's shop, and you get to keep and use the tools for the rest of your life! The socket won't get used much, but the breaker bar certainly will.
Step One: Do not lift the car, do not remove the wheel. Remove only the hubcap.
LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE AXLE NUT FIRST! THEN lift the car, remove the wheel, etc.
What does the flashing green 'S' mean on the dash of a 1991 Honda Accord LX?
I had a similar problem, well mine (S light) flashed occasionally but the "check engine" light was on permanently a lot of geniuses gave their opinion but it was very simple. Replace the oxygen sensor and that will take care of it. Now, that light comes on when you "need" to have a more responsive kind of driving It means Sport driving and to activate or deactivate it, there's a little button on the shift lever, on an automatic car
Where are the Spark Plugs on a 1999 Chrysler Concorde How do you replace them?
Most auto stores will check engine codes at no cost to determine which spark plugs need replaced. (Possibly Indicated By a "Cylinder Number # Misfire" Code being Returned.) On my wife's '99 Concorde I reasearched and was told the #1 plug is the farthest forward on the passenger side.
Odd numbers run toward the firewall. (1/3/5 on pass side, 2/4/6 on Drivers Side with #2 being the farthest forward.) The plugs are easy to find, and not bad to remove. Without removing any covers, brackets or supports, you will see 6 ignition coils (one per plug) on top of the engine.
1) Unclip the slide connector that connects the two wires to the coil.
2) Use a T20 (Size) torx bit to remove the two screws that fasten the coil to the block.
3) Lift the coil straight upwards. The spark plug boot, (which you would normally find attached to end end of the plug wire) is attached to the bottom of the coil and will lift off the plug.
4) Using a high pressure compressor, blow out the hole to ensure that when you remove the plug that no debris fall into the block
5) Using a Socket ratchet & long extension fitted with a spark plug socket, loosen and remove the plug. (The socket must be fitted with a gasket to grip the plug, other wise use a piece of tape
Tire size for a 1998 Honda accord ex?
Written on the driver's door post. Click the link if the placard is missing. I do not have enough information to provide an answer. Coupe, sedan, V6?
All sorts of things. Bad ignition system, which means ignition coil, distributor, wires, plugs... Could be fuel related. Clogged Filter, Clogged injectors, fuel pumps dying. Maybe clogged air filter. Could be mechanical. Idle Air Control Valve could be dying. EGR valve could be clogged. PCV Valve could be clogged. Maybe your Mass Airflow Sensor is dying. Some of those are a bit far fetched, but diagnosing rough idle is endless.
I or anyone else would only be guessing. You need to take the vehicle to a professional well yes but i dont want a professional to rip me off so i wanted kind of an idea about what it might be before i go. I understand exactly how you feel. A couple of questions. Have you changed the transmission fluid or added fluid lately. You MUST use Honda ATF-Z1 fluid and no other. Use any other fluid and you will have shift problems. Now if you have not used any other fluid, you can take the vehicle and have the fluid and filter changed and see if that helps. Make sure they flush all the fluid out and not just what is in the pan. If you have used any other fluid you need to get it out of your transmission ASAP. Other than this I cannot tell you exactly why the transmission is not shifting properly. I am no transmission expert and it will take an expert to diagnose the problem. You could have a bad TCU (transmission control unit) but that is just an educated guess. To avoid being ripped off, that it to someone you trust. Ask your friends for recommendations. I can tell you where not to take it. Do not take it to any chain operation such as Mr. Transmission or such place. A trusted independent is a much safer choice. Of course your local Honda dealer would be a good choice but it will more than likely cost more but you will know is is repaired correctly and get a warranty.
What is the climate of weyburn?
Weyburn has a humid continental climate, characterized by cold winters with little precipitation and warm summers with moderate rainfall. Temperature can vary greatly throughout the year, with average highs in the summer around 25°C and average lows in the winter around -20°C.
1. Turn the power switch IG-ON (foot off brake, push power twice) and make sure that the ODO/TRIP meter is displaying the odometer. 2. Turn the power switch OFF. 3. While pushing (and holding) the ODO button, turn the power switch IG-ON. 4. The reminder light will flash until the reset is completed. 5. The reset is complete when the reminder light turns OFF. Release the ODO button. 6. After the reset, the ODO/TRIP meter displays as a set of zeros for 1 second, then displays your normal odometer mileage.
The computer has detected a problem with the transmission. It is in limp mode. Have this checked by a transmission tech.
How do you install front door speakers on a 93 accord?
My first car was a 1994 Honda Accord LX Coupe, and I'm assuming that the process of changing out the speakers is still the same. To replace the speakers I removed the screws that secured the door panel(the upholstery) to the frame of the door. I believe that there are screws located in the door handle(if there is one) with some screws concealed by square inserts that matches the texture of the handle. You also want to remove the screws that secure the power-lock assembly. Get a flat-tip screw driver and insert it between the door panel and the metal portion of the door, and with a prying motion, pop the door panel out along the left, bottom, and right side(there are protrutions on the backside of the panel that snap into holes in order to secure the door panel to the door). When finished, lower the window all the way. Once lowered, lift the panel and pull out slightly. There are wires connected to the panel(door light, power locks, power windows, etc). Disconnect the wires and set the panel aside. The rest is basic speaker installation:
1)Remove the screws securing the speakers and pull the speaker out.
2)Cut the male and female speaker connectors(assuming you're installing aftermarket speakers) preferably close to the connectors(you need to solder so you want as much slack as possible).
3)Trim the speaker wires that came with the speakers to a desired length.
4)Remove 1/4" of insulation from the speaker wires that came with the speakers and the speaker wires connected to the car.
5)Twist the wires together and solder the wires together(doesn't really matter which wires you solder together. Reversing the polarity doesn't change the sound or quality).
6)Wrap the soldered wires in electrical tape remembering to keep the positive and negative wires separate.
7)Attach the wires to the speaker and mount the speakers onto the door.
Installing the door panel back onto the door is opposite of disassembly.
