Honda Accord LX

Dog food ;)

Fill the radiator up and then start the engine with the cap off. Keep adding coolant until you no longer see any air escaping. Keep it full at all times. Look on the engine for bleeder valves to bleed air from the system. If it has some put the cap on and let the engine reach full operating temperature. Slowly turn the bleeder valve to release any trapped air. Let the engine cool and check the coolant level. Add as necessary to top it off.

I bought a new part for my 1995 Honda accord EX four trunk door but it still won't latch. Can you help?

Disconnect the battery Drain the cooling system Remove the fan and clutch assembly from the water pump. You will need to get a fan clutch holding tool and a Fan Clutch Nut Wrench. Ford T84T-6312-C - Fan Clutch Holding Tool - Global Tool# 303-239 - OTC tool# 7204E1 Ford T84T-6312-D - Fan Clutch Nut Wrench - Global Tool# 303-240 - OTC Tool# 7204E2 After loosening the fan and clutch assembly from the water pump using the two tools listed above position the fan and clutch asembly in the fan shroud. THEN remove the fan shroud (which has the fan/clutch assembly in it) Loosen the water pump pully bolts Remove the drive belt by rotating the tensioner away from the belt by using pully retaining bolts only. (Do not pry on belt tensioner!) Remove the water pump pulley Disconnect the lower radiator hose, heater hose andwater pump bypass hose at the water pump. Unfasten the bolts that attach the pump to the cylinder front cover. Remove the pump and gasket.

Check the cold idle valve under the throttle body. There is a white peice in it that comes loose and causes idle surge. It is located directly under the throttle body and has two coolant hoses connected to it. If you remove the intake pipe you should be able to see it. There are I belive 3 10mm bolts holding it to the throttle body. Remove the entire thing and clean and re-assemble. You may need some sealer to seal one of the gaskets. The white peice needs to be screwes all the way back in. That should take care of the problem

if there is a auto zone around you take your car there they will do a dyno test on it for free i had a problem with my car that the light would not go off and i had a lose hose that was causing the problem did you put fuel injector fluid in your car to make sure the fuel injector wasn't dirty?

obd 2 systems can be very complicated, and once the code is triggered, it will stay in the ecu til its erased, a friend of mine was running into the same problems it turned out to be her gas cap which wasnt tightened correctly, and threw the code and it stayed there til it was erased, try disconnecting your battery, and see if it clears. if Honda did the reapirs, take it back to them and make them fix it.

By the way, if you enjoy modding you car, like i do, the check engine light may come on after doing work on your car. For instance, today, i put a short RAM intake on my 1999 Honda Accord EX-L V6. After completing the install, i unplugged the sensors and turned on the car for a sec to let it know that it should recalculate the air intake. I then reconnected the sensors and turned the car on. I let it idle for a while so it could recalibrate. After doing all this, I realized the check engine light, or malfunction light was on. I understood that this was because i had been tinkering, and of course i didn't want to pay $80 for a diagnostic, which would turn off the light. What i could have done, is wait, and after 40 startups with no problem the light would have turned off. Alternatively, what i did was REMOVE THE NUMBER 13 FUSE FROM THE FUSE BOX ON THE PASSENGER DOOR FRAME FOR 10 SECONDS AND THEN REPLACE IT. THIS WILL MAKE YOUR MALFUNCTION/CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GO OFF BUT THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND I DON'T TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU RUIN YOUR CAR. THAT LIGHT USUALLY DOESN'T LIGHT UNLESS THERE IS A PROBLEM. IF THE LIGHT COMES BACK ON AFTER A WHILE YOU SHOULD TAKE YOUR CAR TO A QUALIFIED TECHNITIAN BECAUSE SOMETHING IS REALLY <EXPLETIVE>'ED UP!

my only guess is you have to push the brake first or you have a linkage or transmission problem does your engine turn over at all. because mine would not turn over, resulting in my key to become lodged in the iginition. if this is the case try jumpstarting your battery.

Here is what you do, Step 1 fill your gas tank. Step 2 Reset the trip odometer Step 3 drive the car Step 4 when you need gas fill your tank. Step 5 write down how many miles you drove and the gallons you just put into the tank. Step 6 divide the miles by how many gallons and that's miles per gallon. for your car only. it should get somewhere in the range of 25 city 30 highway

17.1

list all fuses and manual resets for the electrical system on a Honda accord lx 2.2 l engine

Press and hold the odometer reset button while at the same time turning the ignition key to the on position. After around 5 seconds the light will reset. When doing this do not start the engine, only turn the key to the on position.

The gross weight of the 2003 Honda Accord is 4080 lbs..

It depends on a few variables...

#1 - If it's more of a hard clicking sound while the wheel is turned it will most likely be a bad half shaft (drive shaft with 2 CV joints going from transmission to wheel.)

#2 - If it is a very hard knocking while driving on a flat, even surface it may actually be loose lug nuts. Tighten them up and check for the noise again.

#3 - If it happens when you hit small bumps and a lighter knocking sound, it could be either a bad shock/strut or loose brake pads. If it's a hollow knocking it is a bad shock/strut, if it's more of a rattling knock, it's loose brakepads.

#4 - Also check your front end bushings. If the rubber bushings are rotted/gone it can cause a metal on metal knocking sound.

Each door contains 2 speakers inside of a plastic "speaker pod." The larger "woofer" is a 5 1/4" speaker, and the "tweeter" mounted above the woofer measures 1 1/4" in diameter.

check under the rear seat and the trunk for some type of compartment(a removeable part)

if you dont see any, you may have to drop the gas tank in order to get to it.

'''make sure the gas tank is empty and that you have some one with you, a gas tank is not something that you wanna "handle" when is full. too heavy'''

that depends on the particular motor,how well it was taken care of and in some cases factory recalls and what country was it made in. For example I had a ford truck with a 6cyl that was bound for the junkyard with 90,000 miles on it and I currently own a Toyota with a 6 cyl that has 190,000 miles on it. But there is a standard rule of thumb typically an American made (Chevy,dodge and ford) last around 200,000 miles and import(Toyota,Nissan and Honda) last around 300,000. hope that helps

They are part of the engine block and apparently you have to hoist the engine up so you can move the axle out of the way to get to them The two types of plugs are alongside each other, both just above the pan rail on each side of the block. The drain plugs are screw in plugs which look very much like normal pipe plugs (which can in fact be substituted, they use pipe threads). They have either a hex head or a square head, I've seen both types. Usually they are either 1/4 or 3/8 pipe thread plugs, (which means they are 1/2" to 5/8" OD). They are for the purpose of draining coolant out of the block, and should be opened when ever you are trying to flush all the old gunk out of a car's cooling system. The core plugs, AKA soft plugs, AKA freeze plugs are in the same area, but are much larger, about 1 1/2" diameter, cup shaped, and press fit into holes in the block. There are 3 per side on Mopar blocks of this era. They have to be removed carefully, and there are at least two ways to do this. One way is by cutting them through the center with a very sharp cold chisel (be careful not to drive the plugs through the hole, they can drop down inside and be difficult to retrieve), and be careful not to smack the plug so hard that you damage a cylinder jacket, which is right behind some of them. When you have cut a large enough hole through the center, grab the remains with a good channel-lock or vise-grip and twist and turn the bugger until you work it out of the hole. They are tough, but once you've done one, you'll get the hang of it. The other way to do it is to drive one edge of the core plug into the block so as to get the plug to tilt out from the opposite edge, then grab that with your channel-locks and twist and pull it out. It helps to know how deep you can drive an edge in, and this is dependent on how close the cylinder bore is to the plug. You can sight down from the spark plug and see what is behind each one. If you do one that is between cylinders, you don't have to worry about hitting anything. If you do one that is right on a cylinder, you may hit the cylinder jacket before you can get it to go in far enough to tilt out the opposite edge. You'll just have to experiment with each one. Stay with it, you can do it! You install new ones by cleaning the holes carefully to scrape off all the old remains and rust, then put a skin coat of RTV sealant on the outer sealing surface of the new plug, and drive it into the block (NOT TOO FAR!) with a socket and breaker bar that fits well so you can tap on the end of the handle to drive it in squarely until it fits like the original. You'll find they are available in either brass or steel. I use brass for all but the center plug on each side (the brass is forever, the steel is to be a sacrificial anode and protect the block if you ever get lax on your anti-corrosion protection.) I put the steel one in the center position because it is the easiest to change.

in order to change the fuel pump you must drop the fuel tank.

Ummm, Nope, there is an access panel under the carpet in thr trunk.

yes access panel, we just had to replace my fuel pump, and its in the trunk area, lift up under the carpet and tire cover. round cover platelet thingy with a few screws.. unscrew aND LIFT OUT THE PUMP IS RIGHT IN THERE.

Take off the calipers. If there are screws holding the rotor, remove them. If the screws are stuck, be careful when you use the screwdriver. You might round out the screw. If stuck, use a 1/4" socket wrench, 1/4" socket and a screwdriver bit. The screwdriver bit will fit inside the 1/4" socket. This will give you extra torque when removing the screw. The rotor should come right off.

You won't like it,because it's rather drawn out. First, drain the radiator and save the coolant. You need to remove both fans. For the driver's side fan, unplug the wire, remove the two bolts at the top of the housing, and lift it out. For the other fan, remove the coolant overflow tank, than unplug the wire to the fan motor. Loosen and remove the two bolts at the top of the housing and remove the fan. Note that there bolts at the bottom of the radiator(1 at the drivers side, and 2 on the passenger side). These hold the fans in place. Loosen them a couple of turns. Trace the hose from the bottom of he radiator to the other end. I had to cut the hose off at the top, but the bottom came off easily. Replace the clamps with new ones. Ease the new hose in, and make sure it's not kinked nd the the wear guard is in the bracket. Slid the new clamps over the hose, put the hose in place, and tighten the clamps in place firmly, but not too tight. The two fans go in exactly as you removed them. Replace the coolant overflow bottle and refill the radiator.

If it is the rear brakes, you will need one of these, a socket wrench and a large 'C' clamp. Get yourself a haynes manual or similar, that'll tell you what to do! http://www.autobarn.net/lis28600.html

Actually , you need a hex bit 8 mm. I edited , for you should have the C clamp as well. and a 8 mm hex bit

to help close the caliper before installing the new pads...

http://media.digikey.com/photos/Wihamfg713%20three%20eighth%20series.jpg

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/partlist_Brake-Specialty-Tools_N3479_T|GRP2007__Ampro%20DISC%20BRAKE%20WRENCH%208MM%20___#storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&searchTerm=Ampro+DISC+BRAKE+WRENCH+8MM+&beginIndex=0&vehicleId=298695&category=T|GRP2007&keywords=Brake-Specialty-Tools&partType=N3479&facetFields=mfrName_exact%2CpriceBucket&sortBy=0&pageSize=20

Any auto part store should have it.

4.5 Quarts with filter change of the 4 cylinder. 4.6 Quarts with filter change on the V6.

It must have a timing CHAIN , the Gates website does not list a timing belt

2.5

First of all there is no dipstick on a manual transmission, they use a fill plug instead. The fill plug is located on the transmission right beside the half shaft (look right at the lower level of the CV shaft) the fill plug is there. When ever you remove the fill or drain plug you should change the crush washer. To fill the transmission properly, place vehicle on level ground, remove the fill plug and if fluid comes out then you should be okay. If the fluid is dirty, remove the drain plug. Then fill the transmission with 10W30 or 10W40 oil until the fluid comes out of the fill plug hole. Use a squeeze bottle with a long flexible hose inserted into the fill plug hole, it makes filling easier. The transmission capacity is 2 quarts. Hope this helps