Infiniti I30

If you hear the sunroof motor trying to work it is usually a piece of the weather stripping that gets stuck in the pathway of the retraction. Or an area of rust and loss of lubrication grease to allow for it to roll back.

you would experience a pinging "metalic noise" under heavy or rush acceleration, would also have lost of power. this problem will not turn the check engine light.

yes, but it is very short that goes to the coil pack that each cylinder have its about 7 inches long that goes into the 2 engine heads ( each valve covers)

I just did it - a little tougher for a non-mechanic like myself than the answers I found posted would indicate.

First - take off airbox. There are three screws connecting it to the body of the car. You can take off the screws connecting it to the bracket too, but you don't have too. You should remove the bracket from the car, though. Unplug that electrical connector by pushing down on the green tab and pulling it off.

Move the whole mess out of the way. You'll have to unplug the three hoses toward the front of the engine from the assembly, and two of those hoses have those damn metal clamps on them (use a pliers). Loosen the clamp on the exhaust hose going to the engine, but on the airbox side of it. Move the airbox out of the way - you can sort of wedge it under the edge of the hood.

Now - remove the nut holding the wire that's nearest to the firewall (the other nut has a connection to the other part of the starter, and doesn't need to be removed.) Pull that whole wire assembly out of the way. It's connected to a bracket, and to remove it you need to stick a tiny flat blade screwdriver into the top. Shine a flashlight in there - you'll see a little black tab flush against the metal piece. Pull that tab away from the metal with the screwdriver and the whole assembly pulls up.

See those wires blocking your way from getting at that top nut? Another one of those black tab things! This one is tough to loosen up, I ended up breaking the round plastic piece. Oh well. Move those wires out of the wire.

Now, here's a little trick - you still have that bracket in the way. After you remove the bolts on the starter, it will stop you from taking it out. Mechanic trick: take a thick screwdriver and bend the whole bracket up and out of the way. Crude, but it worked great.

Remove the top bolt - 14 mm. Now the tough one - the bottom bolt (it's actually visible, it's on the right side at about 4:00). You need a 17mm socket ON A SWIVEL. If you haven't used this before, here's how:

It's a "universal joint". It swivels. Attach the 17mm socket to it, and an extension to the other end. Put it on the bolt and it will be sticking straight out. Pull it up so it's tilting up, about 2:00. Put your ratchet on the extension and USE A BREAKER BAR (or, in my case, a piece of pipe). It will come loose pretty easily. Here's the alternative: don't do any of that, fight with the damn thing for an hour trying to get it loose, skin your knuckles, bleed a bit, curse a lot, and think about burning the car.

The first way is easier.

Okay, almost there. Pull it out, but wait - there's still a soldered on wire. The other end is on a slide on bracket. You can try sliding it off - I tried. Then I snapped it off (hey, there's limits.) Now it just disconnects by pulling apart, or use a screwdriver to help separate it.

Installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal. Except for one thing: remember that exhaust hose going to the engine? You may have trouble getting it back on (I did). Another mechanic trick: spray it with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. After messing around for 20 minutes, I sprayed it and got it back on in a couple of minutes.

Good luck!

I don't care what model vehicle it is I change oil at 3,000. Others will tell you that you don't need to change it that often but, check oil coloration at 3,000 and make your own decision. A lot of these cars have the light to change oil come on at app. 7,000 miles and I say that is way to much milage. I'm sure someone will tell you that is fine but my money will be spent at no later then 3,500 miles. Hope this helps. 3,500 tops

when you open the hood it is the 02 sensor located on the top of the exhaust manifold between the radiator and the manifold. if you are facing the front of the car look down on the left side bottom of the manifold you will see a brass looking stem sticking out of the exhaust manifold with three wires attached to it you will need a special socket to chang it auto zone has the socket they will loan it to you to change the sensor.

Any brand of 10W-30 or 10W-40. I prefer Pennzoil.

I'm not really sure of this myself, i have the same problem. as much as i know, you will have to remove the gril and to do that, first you will have to remove the lower part of the back seat, if you look underneath the lower part you will see two ring-shape handles that you have to pull to release the lower part there is one handle in each side of the seat. I've got to this part but i haven't got the time to continue the process but when you take the lower part out, you will notice that the top part is screwed to the car I've seen two screws that you have to remove but im not sure if there are more.

Good Luck..

most of the time you will have an emissions related fault like a faulty egr valve or pcv valve or you maf maybe dirty or one of your vaccum hoses maybe kincked or accidentally disconnected by a goof mechanic

Should be in a housing located at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

dot 3 brake fluid

You have to take off the valve cover oil pan lift up the engine remove tran and engine mount water pump alt power steering and other then that its simple

Usually this is an indication that you have a leak... either in the heater core itself, or the hoses connecting to the core. This is also usually accompanied with a greasy film on the inside of the front window (which is coolant).

I suggest this is a repair best done by the pros.

The best way to find an Infiniti I30 is by using autotrader.com. You can also try http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/11/infiniti/i30/index.html or http://autos.yahoo.com/used-cars/infiniti-i30-overview.

1. Remove the cover that holds the antenna.This is located outside the antenna.No need to go inside your trunk. There will be two little holes on top of the cover plate.(I am sure there is an special tool that Infintany would like you to buy). I used Spark plug pliers.Because they are rubber coated.You really want a tool that protects you paint. 2. Remove the antenna. Installation. 3. slide the base and the cover over the antenna. 4.Have someone in the car.Turn the radio on.So the the motor full extends the anteena. Do not screw the base down at this time. 5.Put the gear into the motor.Have the person in the car turn off the radio.This will bring the gear into the motor.NOTE. You may have to do this a couple of times so that the gears catch. 6. Once the antenna is fully stowed..Srew the base down. 7.Turn the radio back on.If you see that the antenna does not fully extend. Just pull it up by hand. I recomend that you buy the 4 inch antenna.It just looks better.It cost a little more.

Bolts on top of the transmission. Labor time is .08 you have to remove the air filter box to access it.

If you see the check engine light, you can go to autozone and they (if you ask themn nicely) can connect a code reader diagnostic analysis tool which gets connected under the dash. With that special electronic device, the codes can be read. There is a known problem with 2000 era Maximas. You usually see a Check Engine Light (which generally means a diagnostic code has been set in the car's computer monitoring. The known issue with Maximas is that the ignition coils tend to go bad typically around 70-90,000 miles. When that happens, the car runs rough idle and even sometimes stalls. This is because 1 or 2 of the 6 cylinders is not firing due to no spark from a bad ignition coil. That means rough idle and poor engine shakes. The code that comes from the tool for this is something like 1320 code. There are many other codes for many other problems (you can do a google) but that 1320 code is very common around 75000 miles. If you ever change out the ignition coils, be smart and do the spark plugs at the same time. The coils in the front are not too bad but the coils in the rear 3 cylinders means that you need to remove the intake and numerous wires and hoses. Mark them well if you do it. Hope this finally answers the poorly phrased question "code of Nissan Maxima".

Take off the engine cover and unbolt the iginition coils and pull it out the spark plugs are under each iginition coil. the Rear ones you'll have to undo the wiring harness on each before pulling off the coil.

Oil for 1997 infiniti needed

maf sensor or idle air control/ecm. force-clean fuel injectors and reset engine timing and base idle

I had the same problem after I put in a rebuilt transmission. I brought it to a tranny shop and they cleaned some terminal posts and it has worked fine ever since. The hold button is for automatics to feel sportier. You hold it until you want to shift. As soon as you let go, it is off and the car will shift.

autozone.com

I did this on a "96" Trooper for a power antenna. Remove the lining in the wheel well above the tire. You should be able to find any replacement screws or clips in your local auto parts store for reinstalling, if needed. You will need to turn your tire all the way to one side for better access of some screws and the antenna itself. There will probably be a couple of screws holding the power antenna unit to the fender. Remove the screws anchoring the power unit. At this time, you probably want to disconnect your car battery. When you open the power unit to reveal the inner workings, the power winder can automatically activate. There will be no way to stop it without disconnecting the battery. You will want to examine how the power unit is wound and copy it with the new antenna. Good luck.