Mazda Millenia

On the 2.3 liter it is between the rear intercooler air duct and the ABV,it is a large,silver screw on top of the throtte body.

P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

check for a disconnected wire connector or melted wires first, then try replacing the O2 sensor, I believe it is the front one on the passenger side. but I could be wrong.

millenia starting with my 2001 had cabin filters. 2000 my and before no hava

How easy or hard it is to recycle them, no. 1 is the easiest.

I replaced the one on the passenger side. You have to remove the plastic undercover first to access it. There is a larger bolt that holds the housing in place. It needs to be removed to pull the housing out. once you get this out its pretty easy, its just getting into the thing that is the problem.

It depends on the type of car. It could be a wheel bearing, differential (if it's rear wheel drive) cupped tires or possibly a drive shaft carrier bearing or u-joint (again, assuming rear wheel drive)

The code PO404 on a 2000 Mazda Millennia 2.3 means that there is something wrong with how the vehicle is processing the oxygen it needs for combustion. This would mean an oxygen sensor or solenoid is bad. This vehicle has two oxygen sensors.

Ask its owner for the key.

inside the fuel tank. you gotta drop the tank to get at it. good luck

assuming the crank is out,cool it in the freezer and warm the balancer ,the balancer should slip on. be careful ! I have not done this with a crank and balancer,but it works well in other applications. ie.sleeves in blocks.

This is usually a bad coil pack. This cylinder is located in the middle back. I had a lot of dealers that didn't know and some manuals are wrong. They run 1,3,5 on the back.

If they are white towels, use bleach in the wash to kill off any mold or mildew. If they are colored, try using a cup of white vinegar in the wash. And make sure they are completely dry before folding and putting them away.

Molecules can be divided into smaller molecules and then form new molecules again.

oooh, fun. remove the seat. this is more fun than it sounds like. remove the headrest, then you gotta remove the rear panel. what you do is to pull the sides out, they are held on by 2 clips on each side. then, with the sides held out, you push up on the panel, and it comes out. if this is the first time, i guarantee you that you will break the brackets on the panel, and a new on is like 130 bucks. once you remove one, you then will know where the clips/brackets are, and the next time will be easy, and it will come off intact. once you have the panel off, and have stopped cussing, look in the lower left corner of the upper seatback. this is where the upper and lower heater element connectors are. disconnect, and check for continuity. the upper seatback heater has the sensor in it. generally, that one is ok. it is the lower one that goes out the most. the seat has to come out, i always separate the upper back from the lower. there are 2 bolts on each side, remove them, and the seat back comes off. you can do this after you take the seat out of the car, but if you do it now, it is much easier to maneuver. the lower seat bolts to the floorpan with 4 bolts, then there is a wire harness under the seat. it is hard to get at the first time, disconnect it, and the seat comes out. you have to remove the leather cover to get at the heater element. the cover is connected to the pad by hog rings, and they are not fun to remove. i ended up cutting them off, and buying new ones. i got them from BMW, where i used to work. the BMW rings are a lot nicer and easier to reinstall. also, you will break the seat bezel when you remove the switch. don't bother trying to remove the bezel intact, it cant be done. just break that sucker and buy a new one, and be done with it. once you have the cover off, the element is held to the pad like a huge piece of tape. pull it off, and apply the new one. the new elements are way better than the original ones. our originals lasted about 2 years, the new ones have about 7 years on them, and they still work. since we have 2 99's, i got a couple of special tools because i have done 3 seats so far. one is a set of hi torque cutters, and then i have a set of hog ring pliers to install the rings. they have shortened the job significantly.

Sounds like a misfiring spark plug or loose plug wire, crossed plug wires, or maybe poor compression on one cylinder. Is it lacking in power? Blowing black or white smoke out the exhaust? Using more gas than it used to?

== == == == 1) begin with key out of ignition 2)close all doors 3)open drivers door 4)perform following a...insert key b...turn onand off 3 times c...remove key from ignition d...push driver door frame button 3 times (balck rubber button located on door jam). 5) buzz or chime sound will be heardsignaling vehicle in program mode. 6)all transmitters need to be programmed at this time. push the transmitter 2 times. a buzz or chime will be heard indication transmitter programmed. if this is the only one press transmitter 2 more times. if ther is another on don't press 1st transmitter the 2nd 2 times but press 2nd transmitter 2 times and listen for conformation. if heard press 2nd transmitter 2 more times. the additional 2 more times signals that the is the only or last transmitter to be programmed.

Could be behind the drivers seat under the ridge in the floor where the seat belt bolts down. Regards, Kieran.

Installing the timing belt on a Millenia. I have a Mazda Millenia with a 2.5 liter engine that I just replace the timing belt and tensioner on. In the explanation left and right are in reference to how you are looking at the engine. The timing marks are hard to find. Above the crank sprocket, there is an upside down triangle cast into the block. Behind the crank sprocket, there is a flat disc that rotates with the sprocket. This disc has a notch in it that needs to be lined up with the upside down triangle. Looking at the front of the engine, the camshaft to your right has an arrow on the sprocket. Line this up with the very small tick cast into the block. This should line up the arrow at about a 10:00 o'clock position. On the camshaft located on your left, the original factory tick mark for timing can't be seen without a mirror when the engine is in the vehicle. So, as an afterthought, Mazda came up with another solution. There are two tick marks on the block at about the 12:00 o'clock postion. On the camshaft sprocket are two small drilled out holes that need to line up with these two tick marks. If you haven't already, the hydrolic tensioner needs to be removed, compressed, pinned, and reinstalled. Then remove the idler pulley just below the camshaft sprocket located to your right. Route the belt over the crankshaft, right side idler pulley, right side cam sprocket, tensioner idler, and then left side cam sprocket. While putting tension on the belt, reinstall the missing idler pulley. Then remove the pin from the tensioner releasing tension on the belt. Rotate the crankshaft twice and recheck the timing.

Look through your users manual to get started. This will explain the parts that are needed and how to install the new parts.

not difficult, but very time consuming. the whole intake has to come off. your first time will probably take 10 hours. and that's if you have all the correct tools needed.

Depends on the year and engine 2.3 or 2.5.

My 99 2.5 has four.

Do yourself a favour here, these are a bear for DIY.

Just pay a shop to do this because even though your codes may indicate which circuit or bank, two of the four for my engine for example, share the SAME location code which means Either or BOTH could be bad.

PLUS if you think you can just swap them out to until you find the bad one, the act of putting a good one on the same circuit as a bad one can make your new one fail on testing.

Been there, done that, got a dirty Tshirt to prove it.

M

Good Luck

If you decide to stay stock the dealer or Ebay would be your choices. Otherwise any aftermarket alarm will do, but beware it is very involved - not worth the effort. Millenia's are not common cars and it is very difficult to do some modifications.

You have a vacuum leak somewhere in your system. Figuring out where is the hard part. All the those rubber vacuum lines get hard and brittle over time and leak. Replacing them can be hard because of the risk of snapping off a piece of a vacuum tee. The colder the weather the more of an effect the leak will have on your car. It is just a quirk in the Mazda ECU system that causes the tcs light to come on as well.

I'm guessing that this is a 2.3. what is happening is the car is going into limp home mode(tcs off/tcs lites on dash, car will not rev above 2500). the pcm and tcu modules are separate, and when pcm detects certain problems, it stops communicating with tcu, and the car goes limp home. most common is problems with the abv. ce lite comes on, and codes 1525/1526/1540 are stored. this is abv vacuum and vent solenoids circuit. the solenoids control the abv, and are connected by vacuum lines. if this is your car/problem, most common is the solenoids, next would be a vacuum leak. to check the solenoids, you need to ohm them. good is 26, if above 30, or 0, they are bad. also, they are affected by heat, and because they are near the firewall, they get a lot of heat. to effectively fix this problem, not only replace the solenoids, but the vacuum lines(21 ft) and tees. this is not a job for the weak of heart. the intake has to come off to get at the vacuum lines

The water temperature sensor and sending unit are next to eachother. On the passenger side of the vehicle, close to the firewall you will see the power steering fluid reservoir. The larger hoses run down next to the engine. The coolant temperature sensor and sending unit are mounted on the side of the engine, under the ERG valve. There is a 2 bolt heat sheild on one side of them.

lucky for you, it is under the compressor. 5.2 hrs book labor. it takes me at least twice that, plus you gotta have a special socket to get that sucker off. and if you just pound on a deep socket, you still lose, because you will never get it back on unless you have the special socket.

Yah

Lucky for you

the '99 2.5L is INSIDE the manifold and it turns into an 800 dollar job you CANT do on your own.

M

who ever told you the knock sensor is inside the manifold is probably the same place that told you it is an interference motor. and 800 bucks labor on a 2.5 is about 2x what it should cost. the knock sensor on the 2.5 is WAY easier to get at than the 2.3