Mazda MPV

if your lucky you stripped the one that its trough , so you can put a longer

bolt with a nut on the other side

Remove the drive belt. Remove the electrical connection, remove the alternator. OR - IS IT HIDDEN BEHIND OTHER CONPONENTS?

I had to change mine on a 1990 and it's the same for yours.

You need to always remember to disconnect the neg on the battery first.

You need to move the fly wheel just a tad so remove the belt and slide the wheel over then the rest is easy.

Good luck.

Yes, The timing belt coordinates the movement of the engine's valves with the movement of the pistons and fuel delivery system. If the timing belt "fails" this will be catastrophic for the engine.

Unlike this first answer, I have a 1991 MPV 4-wheel drive and a 1993 MPV. I have broken the timing belt multiple times on both and it has "never" damaged the engine.

This is a pain in the ass- I later found out from my mechanic that the 2.5 engine(I don't know about the rest of the MPV's or even other Mazda vehicles) is actually a FORD engine!

I mean, what the hell is the point in buying Japanese when you are explicitly saying "I don't want to buy domestic"? ...

...No winder that "check-engine" light stays on and then turns off occasionally- that's precisely why I stopped buying GM, Ford and Chrysler since the late 90's!

ALRIGHT: HERE'S THE ANSWER:

You have to remove the 2 screws on the air-filter assembly just enough to shove it to one side- because you have to REMOVE THE WHOLE FUSE-PANEL! That's right! That whole panel has to come off!

Don't forget to remove the battery to get access to the fuse-panel screws on that side as well!

Then after taking off the fuse-panel cover, turn the fuse panel upside down and remove the bottom cover as well- do not pinch any of those wires that are going to pop out of the bottom.

Then take a nut-driver and take the 2 screws that secure the fuse you need to replace- I know it has to be screwed in place because of the surge going through it- BUT COULDN'T EVEN AN IDIOT FIGURE ON BRACKETING THE FUSE FROM THE TOP??

AFter removing the screws, your fuse will simply and easily come out.

Reverse the procedure & you're good to go.

Oh! One more thing: DON'T BUY MAZDA!

5W-20

Follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the thermostat.

The radiator hoses are held in place with a clamp. The clamp goes around the hose and can be tighten with a screwdriver. Loosen the clamp on each end of the radiator hose to remove the hose.

5W-20 is recommended

Dis-connect the battery and wait a few minutes before working on it.

Pie is so good!

The recommended tire size for both front and rear is P195/65R16

from my research and trolling thro a lot of MPV forums, this vehicle has issues with Coils going bad. So, please check that first. In case you are changing the coils, remember to change the spark plugs too.

A room fuse is a fuse that usually controls indicator lights. The lights would include door lights, overhead lights, or even and audio fuse.

It's located on the floor under the glove box of the car.

The door switch is bad. I have replaced the drivers side door switch on mine for the same reason.

There are three belts on the Mazda mpv's. In order from the front of the van One for the air conditioner pump One for the power steering pump. and one for the alternator and fan,water pump. Both the air conditioner belt and the power steering belt are tentioned by a idler pulley,on both you must loosen the shaft nut in the centre of the pulley, then loosen the tentioner bolt on the top of the bracket all the way so the pulley travels all the way to the bottom of the slot carefull not to go to far. For the alternator,water pump belt loosen of the bolt on the alternator adjust bracket,loosen the bolt on the swivel point of the alternator, rotate alternator forward to loosen the belt. On the 96-97-98s you must take care that the alternator belt is the exact one ( 17400) 14-0632-4 a thicker belt will not fit past an obstruction on the left lower side of the motor pulley, You need metric sockets and wrenches. Tighten belts so that you can depress the 1/4" . check after a month for adjustment, or if the belt slips adjust a little tighter.

From dealtime:

- Pay close attention to the optional packages. While not as complicated or lengthy as those for say, the GM triplets, or the Sienna, there are some surprises. For example, you don't get rear heat along with rear a/c. Rear heat comes only if the 4-Seasons package is installed.

You can check underneath the dashboard to find the fuse. Use the car's manual to guide you accordingly on where the fuse is.

A 1990 Mazda MPV with oil leaking from the top of the engine sounds like it could likely be the valve cover gasket(s) - (4 cyl 2.6L engine has one valve cover gasket; the 3.0L V6 engine has two v/c gaskets). The valve cover gasket is made of rubber, and eventually deteriorates and becomes brittle over time ... at which point oil will begin to leak. It is recommended that the valve cover grommets be changed at the same time as the valve cover gasket(s). Those are also made of rubber and get old and brittle over time. If the oil leak is coming from further down below the level of the valve cover gaskets, it could be a camshaft seal leak. On the MPVs with V6 engine, there is a plastic piece (called a camshaft holder?) with an o-ring that often develops a leak. While you're checking that possibility, another common issue is oil leakage from the distributor shaft o-ring. Finally, if you see oil on top of the valve cover where the oil cap sits, you might also check the seal under the oil cap to be sure it's not worn and leaking from there. Another possibility: After replacing the valve cover gasket twice on my 1996 Mazda MPV V6 3.L, and still finding a leak, I took my van to a local repair shop and they found a crack in the passenger side valve cover. The crack was welded and resurfaced. Finally, I have no more oil leaks onto the exhaust manifold.

I seem to have found it located under the front passenger side carpet like the 92. I wiggled the wires and the van started. These will cost you $90.00 at the Mazda dealership so I sugest shucks or the wrecking yard.

my car had this problem. first the tickin you hear is the valves. either your low on oil and they are starving for oil. or they are going bad. if the clicking goes away when you start to rev the motor then its the oil if it gets worse they are bad and are goin to need replacing soon. as for the overheating that is the thermostat. it needs replacing now depending on the year make and model of the car this is a fairly easy task and only takes an hour or so. if want to explain more to me about this e-mail me at fluffy_duck2004@yahoo.com put something like "car question" in the subject

With lots of swearing and a case of Bud. Seriously, get under the van and take off the two starter bolts that you can see and the one bolt for the electrical wire. Then there is a brace from the side of the block going up to the intake,remove the bottom two bolts. From the top of the van remove the battery to give you a better view of underneath, take off the top bolt from the brace and get it out of the way. Remove the cap that protects the wires on the starter selaniod and remove the wires. Then you can get to the 3rd bolt on the starter.Go back underneath and swear some more and the starter will fall into your hands.

The best thing to do is replace the fuel filter anyway. You will need to do it even if the fuel pump is bad, so you have nothing to lose. You can listen to hear iif the fuel pump is kicking on at all. If it is, just do the fuel filter. Its much cheaper and easier than the fuel pump. Then you can test the fuel pressure to see if the pump is bad after you replace the filter.

The removal is really easy. Note from the comments above that the fragile side of these light houses is the right side. The strong side is the left side..... this is the side that does NOT break. You don't want to pull down on the right side you want to pull down on the left side. Get an L shaped metal object and put it under the left side of the bulb cover unit after the unit is pushed to the right side. Pull down on the L shaped metal 'tool'. I used vice grips and two small L shaped hex wrenches. After removing the unit I beefed up the right side with some of that GOOP stuff and reinforced it with a piece of metal. Piece of cake. Don't buy into ... this will always break because it is just not true.... solve the puzzle. Namaste.

Also see....

http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=20189