Mercury Mountaineer

For a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer :

With engine oil filter change the 4.0 litre SOHC , V6 engine takes :

( 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 engine oil )

You can view the 2000 Mercury Mountaineer owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( pages 238 and 239 will answer your question )

look in the owners manual. However just push the "Info" butom until it gets to trip, then push and hold the little stem byt the information center until it goes to "0"

Once you correct the problem the light will go off. Can be low of brake fluid, parking brake might be partially on, defective Master Cylinder, etc. Do not ignore this light as this can cause your brakes to fail.

MOST GENERALLY, OVERHEATING OF TRANNY IS CAUSED BY THE TRANY OIL COOLER UNIT LEAKING, OR PARTIALLY PLUGGED OR THE FINS FILLED WITH DIRT AND ROAD GRIME. Inspect and clean. IF THE TRANNY LINE IS LEAKING, IT WILL BEGIN TO GET TOO HOT and overheat. SOON IT WILL BEGIN TO BE TOO LOW ON OIL TO DRIVE THE CAR. You can run into this problem at any time. Getting low on oil will cause the tranny to stop working. It will start slipping and then stop working. Naturally, it will cause it to overheat.

This will happen ESPECIALLY IF IT IS A HOT DAY AND IF YOU ARE PUSHING THE VEHICLE HARD. So, check out what is going on.

If you are on the road and it stops pulling, you may have to get down under the front of the vehicle and see if it is wet on the ground and on the car with tranny oil. Most tranny oil is red sometimes it is grey. (caution: Do not use motor oil to replace missing oil in the tranny. This will permanently ruin your tranny.) If the tranny is leaking it will show wet with oil on the ground and on the vehicle. Go and get the right oil from a nearby service station and add three or four quarts, enough to get the car to drive to the nearby station and then go from there. If it is a copper line leak, clean it. Then get some flux and a hot iron and solder. Solder the hole and refill the tranny. Check for leaks. This should work. If it is a rubber hose, clamped on, replace it.

According to the 1999 Mercury Mountaineer Owner Guide :

The fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) is in the front passenger

footwell , behind the kick panel

In the 1998 Mercury Mountaineer :

The 4.0 liter SOHC - V6 engine has ( 3 ) timing CHAINS

The 5.0 liter V8 engine has ( 1 ) timing CHAIN

For a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer , 4.0 liter , SOHC , V6 engine :

With engine oil filter change :

( 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

According to the Owner Guide

18436572 the numbering is odd on one side and even on the other 2 4 6 8 1 3 5 7 Ford , Chevy 1234 5678 usually a number on the intake manifold over each cyl also.

Well I'm not saying that anybody is wrong but all of the Fords I've ever worked on were number as followed: Passenger side (front to back) 1234 --- Drivers side (front to back) 5678. And the firing order should be 13726548

aftermarket is a clear red or blue the stock is blue if u cut this wire remember that if this wire touches and part of the cars body that is will fry the deck(stero) you have tp take the battery out of the car first before u mess with this wire

open compartment where jack is look to the right inside jack compartment you will see a white box the number is on that box

When a fuse blows, it essentialy breaks the circuit. So the current can no longer flow, this is used as a safety measure.

in the rear trunk/hatch. First you open the hatch look to your left and you will see the jack door. Open the door and if you look to the right of the door you will see a box this is the code box. DO NOT REMOVE it. just have a flashlight handy and try your best to look between the box and the truck you will see the # in there

IF that is the Intake Air Temp sensor - It is probably on the throttle body. the other sensor is the TPS throttle position sensor

try tapping the rotor with a hammer to break the rust holding it to the hub. also need to remove the flat retaining nut which will be found on one of the lug bolts. If it still does not release you need to release the e-brake cable, the pads may have worn into the inner brake lining

Pull the headlight control knob towards you with the low beam headlight or park light position selected

Open the drivers door and there should be an information sticker that shows the

original size tire that came on the vehicle

There are two fuse boxes inside of your Mountaineer. the first is when you open the drivers door. it is on the left side of the steering wheel in between the door and the dash. you have to have the door open to access it.

The second is under the hood. you have to open the hood and it will be twards the back on the drivers side. it should be on top. it is a black box.

hope this helps.

This is not a typical thing to occur. Most likely there could be either a turn signal bulb out or the relay is starting to die. Besides the noise, you may notice the turn signal is going on and off really fast. Otherwise, there might be a wire pinched and shorting out in the steering column. I'd take it to a ford dealer if possible.

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had the exact same problem try hitting the unlock on the remote key thing... then put the key in and turn it to on but dont start it. crank on the wheel really hard to one side while applieing the brake and start it. it works. it has to do with the alarm system

Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.

You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???

Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.