Mercury Mountaineer

18436572 the numbering is odd on one side and even on the other 2 4 6 8 1 3 5 7 Ford , Chevy 1234 5678 usually a number on the intake manifold over each cyl also.

Well I'm not saying that anybody is wrong but all of the Fords I've ever worked on were number as followed: Passenger side (front to back) 1234 --- Drivers side (front to back) 5678. And the firing order should be 13726548

aftermarket is a clear red or blue the stock is blue if u cut this wire remember that if this wire touches and part of the cars body that is will fry the deck(stero) you have tp take the battery out of the car first before u mess with this wire

open compartment where jack is look to the right inside jack compartment you will see a white box the number is on that box

When a fuse blows, it essentialy breaks the circuit. So the current can no longer flow, this is used as a safety measure.

in the rear trunk/hatch. First you open the hatch look to your left and you will see the jack door. Open the door and if you look to the right of the door you will see a box this is the code box. DO NOT REMOVE it. just have a flashlight handy and try your best to look between the box and the truck you will see the # in there

IF that is the Intake Air Temp sensor - It is probably on the throttle body. the other sensor is the TPS throttle position sensor

try tapping the rotor with a hammer to break the rust holding it to the hub. also need to remove the flat retaining nut which will be found on one of the lug bolts. If it still does not release you need to release the e-brake cable, the pads may have worn into the inner brake lining

Pull the headlight control knob towards you with the low beam headlight or park light position selected

Open the drivers door and there should be an information sticker that shows the

original size tire that came on the vehicle

There are two fuse boxes inside of your Mountaineer. the first is when you open the drivers door. it is on the left side of the steering wheel in between the door and the dash. you have to have the door open to access it.

The second is under the hood. you have to open the hood and it will be twards the back on the drivers side. it should be on top. it is a black box.

hope this helps.

This is not a typical thing to occur. Most likely there could be either a turn signal bulb out or the relay is starting to die. Besides the noise, you may notice the turn signal is going on and off really fast. Otherwise, there might be a wire pinched and shorting out in the steering column. I'd take it to a ford dealer if possible.

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had the exact same problem try hitting the unlock on the remote key thing... then put the key in and turn it to on but dont start it. crank on the wheel really hard to one side while applieing the brake and start it. it works. it has to do with the alarm system

Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.

You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???

Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.

The most likely cause is heating and cooling from the sun causing tailgate wiring to flex while parked, or on bumpy roads This drove me crazy for a year. Also had flashing or flickering "door open" light at times while driving.

Lift the tailgate and carefully pull the plastic trim down across the top area of the glass, just enough to get to the two connectors inside. Separate the two connections and clean/lubricate the connections and reinstall.

Your fuel is low. Its telling you to check your gas gauge...

On the dash just to the right of the steering column

The 2004 Mercury Mountaineer does not have an automatic transmission fluid

dipstick . I know that the 2002 and newer Ford Explorer four door versions

do not have a dipstick for the automatic transmission fluid level .

Tsar Kolkol (:

According to the 2000 Mercury Mountaineer Owner Guide :

( Yes , DOT 3 brake fluid , meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A )

The 8" round subwoofer in in the back hatch, passender side. Remove plastic panel. Cut out old, nonfunctioning subwoofer. Be careful to disconnect wiring to re wire new unit. Then the really HARD part. There is a metal casing that need to come out. The flathead screws are cemented into the magnet so we drilled the screw heads old and removed the metal casing with a claw hammer. Then the heavy magnet is still a problem and embedded into a plastic molding inside that chamber. So ............... we used a crowbar to pop it out. Throw the old away. Connect old witring to new subwoofer. Screw into the exhisting holes and turn on the radio. What a GREAT sound! Didn't know we missed it so much. Really was easy to do except for the drilling and crwobar part. But................. it saved us $60 installation fee and we got NICE subwoofer on sale. Hope this helps you .

P0133 - upstream heated O2 sensor circuit slow response ( Bank 1 )

Bank 1 is the passenger side of your engine

Sensor 1 - is in your exhaust pipe before the exhaust enters the catalytic converter ( upstream )