Mercury Tracer

The air conditioning in a Tracer works through the power relay below the air cleaner. The low pressure switch on the accumulator near the firewall and the high pressure switch near the radiator cross member feed signals to a relay in the power relay box under the air cleaner. This relay box then sends information to the A/C compressor clutch. If you can jack up the car, remove the right front wheel and splash shield, you can "back probe" the wires on the A/C clutch and see if they are getting about 13 volts when the engine is running and the A/C is on. If it has the voltage and the compressor is NOT running, the problem is in the compressor. If it doesn't have the 13 volts, the problem is electrical and is wiring, the relay box or one of the switches, including the dash controls. Good luck eliminating these. To be sure, you can run a wire from ground and the battery directly to the compressor clutch to see if it will engage. If it does, the problem is electrical; if it doesn't, the problem is in the compressor.

To remove the gear shift knob on the SLK 320, first pry the cover from the gear shift knob. Then, use a screwdriver to remove the screw in the center of the knob. This will then allow the knob to be removed.

According to the 1998 Mercury Tracer owners manual :

( # 9007 ) aero high and low beam

if it is a clamp with 2 bolts that are smoothed you need to use a grinder or chisel to make a flathead mark in the bolts then undo them to get the ignition off if it is a clamp with 2 bolts that are smoothed you need to use a grinder or chisel to make a flathead mark in the bolts then undo them to get the ignition off

It's located on the fuel rail there is a plug and vaccum hose connected to it

If you remove the rear seat cushion you should see a cover with four bolts or screws, under that is the fuel pump.

Low pressure relay is bad! Check freon pressure, if it falls too low, the compressor will not run (installed for safet of compressor)

it is the large screw with a temperature check pod on it right above the throttle spring

On your 1991 MERCURY TRACER, the THERMOSTAT is:

UNDER HOOD, DRIVER SIDE, UPPER ENGINE AREA, ENGINE END OF UPPER RADIATOR HOSE, MOUNTED IN COOLANT OUTLET HOUSING.

yes it does .it is located inside the altenator.

It sounds like the blower is not blowing, check the fuse for the blower.

To add to the above, I had the same issue on a '97. I could hear it clicking and trying to blow but nothing came out. I took the blower motor housing off (located underneath behind the glove box...very easy to get to) and it was clogged with leaves, small twigs. Tried it with the gunk in it and it turned, cleaned it and it purred. Put it back together and works fine.

p0111 is intake air sensor 1 ckt range/perf-- to fix this code it can be a bad iat sensor or in wiring to it. the iat sensor is usually in the big air hose, just after air cleaner going to throttle body. this sensor senses if the incoming air is cold or warm to set engine peramiters for best idle and driving under all conditions. it works in conjunction with the mass air flow sensor and sends this info to pcm.

Depends what year it is, some have a separate dipstick and others are just stupid and you have to pull out your speedo cable to refill them i have a 98 model and you have to unscrew the speedo cable, remove the cable from the casing and then pull the entire gear shaft out of the spedo cable housing before you can even check the oil

it is located behind the engine above the rack and pinion steering.its not the easiest to get to but not all that bad either. hope this helps

I am having the same problem on both driver and passenger side passive (shoulder) belts. Was told to check the fuse, if not that, the motor needs to be replaced. Now, where is the motor located? I swear they hide stuff to irritate me on this car!

Fuse, Cables, Connectors, Motor, Computer :-)

: There are many possibilities, which can cause this. : The first answer is what to do first! If it's won't go: : No1.: Remove door panel on that side which seat belt isn't works. Check the long cable, which goes from A pillar to the door lock. Check the door lock switch. (I had a cuted cable here, and a broken door lock switch) : No2.: Remove the "A" pillar inner moulding, and check the stop switch, connector, and the cables. : No3.: Remove the "B" pillar inner moulding. Check the cables, the connectors, the electric motor, and the stop switch. : No4.: Remove the panel under the steering wheel. In the middle You'll find the electric part, which is a "computer" It's the "brain" of the passive belts. Try to change it, or check the cables, and the connectors. : You can change the right side parts to the left, so you can find the wrong parts. But it's a hard DIY work. It works on early LX-s, pinys, Station Wagons, etc... (1988-1990) I wish it works on later too. (sorry for my english)

Approx 4 QTS.

when the engine is hot the check engine light came on and the fan(is ok) don't start

I need to know what motor. YOu really need a manual to do this sort of thing. One tooth out or improper belt tension will destroy the valves, pistons, etc.

Most pre-99 models use the plain green stuff I do believe. However, if in doubt you should be able to use that newer universal yellow type.

Check the coolant level in the radiator when it is cold.

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**Actually the check coolant light indicates the reserve is low. When facing the engine with the hood up...look to your left and you should see the tank. Fill that to the fill line and then run the car until the thermostat starts to pull the coolant...add when it gets low and until it stops taking fluid. Do not add directly into the radiator unless the reserve tank is empty.

This is a messy, but easy job. First use some ramps, and get access to the underside of the car. Then remove the plastic skid guard on the drivers side of the car. It should have about 5 or 6 bolts. Once that is removed, you should see the fairly rectangular transmission pan. I'm assuming you already have a new filter and gasket, you shouldn't reuse the old ones. Also make sure they are the right size, and type. Line the gasket up underneath the pan to make sure. Then loosen the bolts on the lowest part of the tranny pan, (likely the side farthest from the front of the car), put something underneath to catch the dripping fluid. And slowly make your way around the pan bolts loosening them. Eventually the fluid will start to drain out. It WILL be messy. Once you've emptied what you can, carefully remove the other bolts and lower the pan. Removing the filter isn't hard either, just a couple of bolts. Make sure you don't get any crap inside the naked valve body, or you will likely wreck it. Clean out the tranny pan really well, and let it air dry. Make sure you clean your magnets as well. If you see any metal slivers, be concerned. If it's just a muddy sludge, you're probably ok. When replacing the pan, try not to over tighten, and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern to prevent leaks. If you have a rubber gasket, don't use sealant on it!

jack up car, remove wheel, may need a pry bar, remove 2 bottom bolts at bottom of strut. go into trunk area & find top of strut mount and remove the 3 or 4 nuts securing the top. push down hub assembly & pry outward, pull strut down and out. installation is opposite of removal.

I have a 89 tracer with a 5 speed manual transmission. When I had the transmission oil changed they removed the speedometer cable from the transmission and filled it through the odometer drive mounting hole. I laughed at the mechanic but he said that was the only way to do it. If there is no other hole to check the oil I guess you may have to pull the odometer cable to check it!!! Hope this helps you out. RG

A radioisotope can be used as a tracer in the human body because tracers are used in the imaging the body's organs and tissues.

could be the multi function switch if its not the relay. the mutifunction switch assembly runs about $240 at parts store or go to a junk yard. You have to remove the steering wheel to replace it. probably need an impact or a breaker bar and a friend to hold the steering wheel.