Mercury Villager

On the left side of the engine. Facing the van. Remove the hose that will be in your way. There are four bolts. It helps if you have the new gasket so you can see what the housing shape looks like. Remove the four bolts. They are 12mm. You may need to remove the smaller hose that connects to the housing. After removing the 4 bolts knock the housing loose with a piece of wood and a hammer. It should pop right off. I couldn't get the housing out so I just put the new thermostat and gasket in while it was still in the engine compartment. Replace the bolts and hoses. Refill the system. I'm not sure how to bleed the air out, but this is as far as I got so far. Kirt

bottom of radiator on right side facing engine

We have had this happen too. Occassionally we have turned the key the opposite direction, opening the back window. Once the window is closed the door can be unlocked and opened.

try pushing it even tighter then opening...a little to-and-fro action... can you crawl inside and remove the panel to access the latch? a can of wd-40 to soak the thing(from inside) it may lube the fibers enough to allow the latch to break free... i like a combo of wd-40 and to-and-fro....so good luck!!! also everyone should have a shop manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual(wiring diagrams and more detailed info) available in the reference section for FREE....make copies of the right sections, and fix it like a PRO!! good luck Dave :)

Several hours at least. The entire intake manifold must be removed, along with ancillaries. The cooling system must be drained.

None of the Villagers have carburetors. They are fuel injected. Most cars haven't had carbs for quite a few years.

Most belt noise is caused when one of two conditions. Either the belt is loose or it is worn (indicated by smooth shiny surface on the pulley side) and should be replaced.

What about it? It's impossible to provide and answer if you don't ask a complete question.

I bought some King Ranch Seat Covers I wanted to put on my 2006 F-150 Super Crew, For the bottom part of the rear bench seat on the 2006 F-150 there's 4 star bolts on the sides that aren't too tough to remove. But I then got stuck on the middle connector looks like a peg that you'd just lift the seats out from. It must have a clip or something that's still holding the bench bottom cushions on. I didn't figure that part out and just reinstalled the star bolts I'll reattack this project another time.

There is generally a test port on the injection rail.Make sure you use only a high pressure tester and proper test fittings.The pressure is quite high and can be a serious fire hazard if not done right.

1993 is OBD I and the connector is in the engine compartment above the transmission on the driver's side. I suggest using a code reader rather than trying to short wires.

On top and inside the fuel tank.

The water pump is behind the timing cover and driven by the timing belt. The procedure is essentially the same as replacing the timing belt except you need to drain the cooling system and you don't have to remove the crank pulley IF you're not replacing the timing belt.

Because of the complexity of this operation, it is strongly suggested that you consult a repair manual, or take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Changing the timing belt will require a substantial amount of disassembly and 4-6 hours of time. It will also require the fabrication or purchase of a special tool to hold the crankshaft in order to remove the pulley nut, or else you will need a very strong air ratchet wrench to knock it loose. You will need to remove all the drive belts, the A/C belt tensioner, any hose that's in the way, and raise the vehicle, remove the right wheel, inner splash guards, crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and tensioner to remove the belt. This is a good time to replace the water pump as it's driven by the timing belt. The timing marks in the sprockets must line up exactly with the marks on the belt, and this can be difficult to do, since the cams will want to move out of position due to the pressure of the valve springs on them.

There is no such thing on this vehicle.

This job is difficult and time consuming even for an experienced mechanic. There are several unanswered timing belt questions on this board simply because it is too involved (the process covers an entire chapter in a repair manual). However, if you insist, get a descent manual from a parts house and have at it. Or, take it to a Mercury dealership, pay the man $400+ and have the job guaranteed done right. Oh, by the way, it might not be a bad idea to have the water pump/oil pump replaced(all one assembly) at this time as it involves remove the same pieces. Only an extra $175. The pump also incorporates the front engine seal (don't want engine oil all over your brand new timing belt).

The Flasher Relay is defective. Replace it. It is located, front seating area, driver side, under dash, mounted on passenger side of steering column.

R-134a is used in all vehicles 1995 and later.

I had the same problem, and it was caused by low transmission fluid, it seems that low fluid confuses the transmission. and once you fill it give it a while till the gears start shifting before you see the fix. good luck.

Mass air flow sensor is mounted after the air filter.

This may be due to 2 reasons.

One is the fact that the throttle body bore has a groove worn into it due to a worn throttle shaft bearing. This cannot be fixed as you will have to purchase and replace the throttle body.

The other could be a frayed or binding accelerator cable.

If the o2 sensor is bad, replace it. If the sensors are activating the check engine light, then the codes should be checked. The catalytic converter could be blocked or the engine may not be running properly.

These parts are only fixed by replacement.

If you mean crank position sensor it's on the back of the engine, forward side. If you mean cam position sensor, that is taken from the distributor, there is no separate cam sensor.