Mercury Villager

its setting a code

The same place where you check it, there is a tube that comes up in the right center behind and to the left of the coolant reservoir. It has a small black ball on top. That is your transmission fluid dipstick. It is, unfortunately, not marked in any way. Pull that out and if you need to add fluid put a funnel in that tube and do so.

The pellet, the copper part opposite the spring with the temperature on it, always goes "into" the engine. The spring end should face out.

1999 - 2002.

5W-30

Under the dash to the left of the steering column mounted to the side wall. It will either be just above the kick panel or behind it toward the top.

Not until it starts giving you trouble.

The diagnostic connector is located on the engine near the starter. However, there are four connectors in that location and without pictures it would be difficult to determine which is the proper one.

The only reason for accessing the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) would be if the check engine light is coming on. The testing and repair of electronic components on newer car is not to be taken lightly and definitely not without a repair manual at your elbow.

Now, be a good boy and take it to a qualified mechanic.

The ignition module and coil are contained inside the distributor and are not serviced as separate parts.

If you mean frozen as in seized, the engine will need to be rebuilt, as parts have welded themselves together and there is most likely some serious damage to the pistons and cylinder bores.

The oil pressure sending unit is located right above the oil filter.

I removed the bench seat by removing the seat tracks...4 bolts on each side beneath the carpet. I just use the the 2 rear bucket seats now and take them out when I need the room for cargo. Saves about 150 lbs which gives better performance as well. You could also take the tracks to a machine or welding shop and have them cut off the rear of the tracks where the stops prevents you from sliding the bench seat out. I thought of that but really haven't found the need for the 3rd seat, so I'm sticking to the former approach.

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1 - remove the middle row for easy access

2 - remove the 6 bolts attaching the seat to the sliding brackets

3 - remove bench seat from van. It is very heavy.

To remove sliding brackets:

1 - remove trim piece by sliding door or cut away carpet

2 - remove captains chairs in the front seat

3 - unscrew the wiring harness and heater vent

4 - lift carpet & wiring harness while sliding the seat bracket off the track.

5 - repeat on other side

6 - reassemble everything.

rustic

To replace the radiator blower on a 1997 Mercury Villager, first, disconnect the negative battery terminal to ensure safety. Remove any necessary components to access the blower, such as the battery or air intake duct. Unplug the electrical connector from the blower, and then unbolt and remove the old blower motor. Install the new blower by reversing the steps: secure it in place, reconnect the electrical connector, and reassemble any removed parts before reconnecting the battery.

According to the 1999 Mercury Villager Owner Guide :

( 20.0 US. gallons )

If the distributor was genuinely bad the vehicle would probably not run. It requires special diagnostic equipment to test a distributor in isolation.

There is no OBD II port on your '93 Villager. 1995 and earlier model were equipped with the EEC or OBD I. All other models starting 1996 had OBD II. Sorry !! Now, you can access the codes on the OBD I system but, you will need to have a repair manual for detailed instructions. Get one at your local parts store.

Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to determine problem. It can be many things including wheel sensors, ABS pump, or bent ABS ring located on your CV axle or rear hub assembly.

Take the distributor cap off and turn the engine. If the rotor turns it's not "stuck".

Front wheel drive

There is a belt that if fed down through a motor and feeds out across the bottom of the door sill. Mine got chewed up in the motor and the fuse blew. In order to free it you must remove the drivers side panel behind the driver's seat and the motor is just above the lap belt recoil unit. There is a knob on top. By turning it you can manually wind out the belt. If the belt is too chewed up, go to a wrecker and get the entire track assembly that goes over your door and replace everything up from the motor. Use the knob to wind the new belt down through the motor and into the track. Check the fuse if the belt is not chewed up.

Because of the complexity of this operation, it is strongly suggested that you consult a repair manual, or take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Changing the timing belt will require a substantial amount of disassembly and 4-6 hours of time. It will also require the fabrication or purchase of a special tool to hold the crankshaft in order to remove the pulley nut, or else you will need a very strong air ratchet wrench to knock it loose. You will need to remove all the drive belts, the A/C belt tensioner, any hose that's in the way, and raise the vehicle, remove the right wheel, inner splash guards, crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and tensioner to remove the belt. This is a good time to replace the water pump as it's driven by the timing belt. The timing marks in the sprockets must line up exactly with the marks on the belt, and this can be difficult to do, since the cams will want to move out of position due to the pressure of the valve springs on them.

Hey Jill=They have to be removed with a scanner after '96. Auto zone can do this free. GoodluckJoe

Just had this problem today, Not sure if it will always work, but my 97 Villager had a knock sensor code and a TPS code. I disconected the battery for about 20 min. and then reconected it. I drove the vehicle for about 30 miles and then took it in for an emission test. Passed with flying colors and the OBD monitors tested fine. Again it may not work for you but it worked for me. A mechanic friend told me to do that.

It mostly uses pop-off fasteners. There are one or two screws at the top for a cover.