Mitsubishi Eclipse

rebuild it or replace it. there are no tricks to unseize a turbo

first of all you must pull the axle nut. you will need a 32mm or 34mm socket, depending on the axle,a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a four foot piece of pipe. have an assistant hold the break while you turn the nut to the left.after you break th nut loose you may commence with taking the brake caliper and the caliper bracket off. next you will ned to take out the steering knuckle, however it is easier to just pull the tie rod, and both of the lower control arms, and then of course the upper control arm (1), because you cannot really get to the knuckle bolts that hold the end of the axle off until you can get it off and take a chisle and hammer to turn the nuts off DO NOT TAKE THE SHOCK BRACKET LOOSE!!. you DO NOT NEED A BALLJOINT, OR TIE ROD SEPARATOR!!! simply take a long handled screw driver or pry bar and push up or down, which ever you are trying to pull off, and any forged hammer and give the side of the joint a good smack while prying down or up on the joint. you may need to do this several times. and with factory hardware you need NOT worry about breaking the joints. after that the you must take the inner cv joint boot loose, this can be accomplished by using a screw driver and taking the end clip tabs and prying them up. the boot moves much similar to a pipe clamp on ventilation duct work. next pull out the inner cv joint end. you should not meet any resistance, however if you do, take a rubber mallet and tap the axle while pulling it away from the tranny. gently pull the axle through the shock/strut bracket and you magically have your cv axle. if you heard cracking in you axle you probably nee to replace the "tripod" on the inside, the axle is probably not messes up, but cracked boots allow sand, rocks, salt, etc. to get into the cv joint and you hear that great crackling sound when you turn, or go down the highway. if you are insistant on replacing the axle though, you can go to your nearest autoparts dealer and get yourself another set. before installing the new ones use a good degreaser and clean the inside of the inner (constant velocity) c.v. joints. use a good grease, i recommend Lubriplate grease and slop a good CLEAN handfull into the joit. if you don't already have the boot on the end of the shaft put it on now. then take your new shaft and tripod and coat the tripod and it's end liberally with grease before placeing it into the inner cv joint housing, reclamp, and reassemble the steering components in the reverse order you took them off. hope this long SOB helps out. PS: the outer CV joint can be replaced, but for the time and cost, you would be better off replacing it.

I assume that you have removed the wheel and so on. In order to remove the rotor you will have to remove the caliper and its bracket. Only after you will be able to remove the rotor.

underneath right rear passenger seat.

remove the intake manifold then they're in the back. I'm sure u see the front 3. peace

Not worth it even if the care has been taken care of. Use the eclipse as a trade-in, add the thou you have saved up and get a car with less milage! Or keep the eclipse but save the money, you will need it for repairs in the near future! Its very much worth spending 1000 on just do basics like timing belt to avoid major problems

This just happened to my daughter's car, a 2001 Spyder Eclipse convertible GT. It cost about $500 because the old one cracked and they needed to replace with a new one. The radiator has some plastic parts, which make them hard to re-build (I was told).

200 mph

Probably your oil sending unit may be defective. You may have excessive bearing wear. Have it checked with an oil pressure guage to be sure. Manually screw the guage in where sending unit is.

on the Chrysler engine (420a) you do need a puller and installer to deal with the crankshaft dampener pulley.

Probably in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

I believe its the windshield wiper fluid for the car. Check the rear fluid also.

Mine does not, however some may.

its a huge pain in the buttt but u have to take off the serpentine off also and then u gotta loosen the bolts on the alternater so u can move that around too

The process is definitely a day job, if you know what your doing but can take longer if your unsure. first, it may be to your advantage to pick up a Hanes manual for the car. its not the greatest but for $20 it helps you to locate some bolts that are hidden.

You will want to start by removing your battery and the tray under. if you have your stock air box or and intake now would be a good time to remove that also. once you have done this, the motor mount on the trans should be clearly visible, along with the shift cables. remove the horse shoe clips and the cotter pins that hold in the shift cables and be sure to keep the cable as far out of that way as possible because they DO break easily. now, unclip both the reverse sensor( located on the trans nearest the front of the car) and the vehicle speed sensor( located on the trans nearest to the firewall).

Once this is all done you can now make your way to the ground. be sure the car is properly chocked and the jacks are correctly supporting the car. ( always work with another person present just in case the car does fall off the jacks) you will now want to remove the cross member ( long metal bar like structure that runs under the engine compartment and has motor mount attached.) the cross member is held by 4 bolts and a nut and bold through the motor mount located at the front of the vehicle. You may now move over to your suspention. if you haven't done so already, remove the tires. You need to unbolt both lower control arms, the fork ( only the nut and bolt that connects to the lower control arm) and the tie rod. don't be surprised if its unbolted and wont move out of the spindle. you need to use a rubber mallot n hit the spindle near the selected control arm/tie bar to remove it ( DO NOT HIT THE TREADED PART OR ELSE YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO REBOLT ON THE NUT) You will now need a 32mm and a lot of muscle to remove the nut that connects the spindle to the axle. after this is done you are free to crawl under n remove the axle from the trans. use a prybar to create space and break the seal between the axle and trans.( do this to both sides)

now is the time to unbolt the trans. this includes the starter, the clutch master cylinder, and the trans bolts themselves. work your way in one direction in order not to miss anyway bolts. ( the manual i mentioned earlier would help here)

After all this is complete position a jack under your trans and one under your motor. you have already removed one mount ( the one on the cross member) so there are two left. one is closest to the firewall. this has 3 14mm bolts that connect it to the trans. it's probably best to use a swivel because its in a tough spot. once removed, make your way to the mount closest to the driver side fender (under battery tray). remove the mount with an 18mm. After this you should have already noticed the trans moving from the motor. You will have to play with the jack( up down side to side) so you can clear the shaft that's in the trans from the flywheel that's bolted to the motor. lower the jack and you trans is removed

To install, do the same processed reversed. Remember to not break the shift cables and be careful of the teeth on the pressure plate of the clutch setup. It is a bit of a pain to get the trans back in but once its lined up again, the rest is cake.

take it to a macanic and if you area macanic you are not a very good one

There are eclipses of the sun (solar), and eclipses of the moon (lunar). At different places on the Earth, each of those may be total or partial. Sometimes only a partial eclipse is visible anywhere.

That would refer to the electrical wiring layout. Although it doesn't show where it is routed axactly, it does show where the wires are spliced and the components they lead to.

The spark plugs are located on your head for the first three, when you open your hood and you find the metaling (head) that says 24 valve V6, there are 3 plug type things on there, those are the spark plugs, the last three, are under the plenum.

if it sounds like lil beeps and blips its cause ure car has an internal amplifier and its the security system on ure car essentially "locking" the security system so the anti theft device works if its not beeps and stuff like that then maybe ure cars possesed try an x-er-cism hahaha

Go to Crutchfield.com and they will have all of the sizes of your factory size speakers for your car.

if you call your local mits deal they will give the code for free...mine did

whats required for swapping automatic to manual transmission in a Mitsubishi eclipse 1997

every 60 000 miles