Nissan Trucks and SUVs

You need to take the air cleaner off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose going to your brake booster at the check valve point. There is a valve (EGRC-BRT) next to the EGR remome the the clamp on the braket that is holding the brake booster hose and swing it out of your way. Next you need to remove the vacuum hose from the EGRC-BRT valve and remove the valve nad the bracket that hold the vave. Now you can get to the EGR pipe which attaches to the EGR. Remove the pipe then remove the the bolts that hold the EGR valve.

A duralast gold from walmart,640 cold cranking amps(800 cranking amps)

first check power steering fluid,if to low then air is inside causing noise or p.s. pump is bad.

The right type of fluid will keep a car running at its best. The 1995 5-speed Nissan pickup uses 75W-90 Gear oil.

Pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual for your truck and follow

their procedures.

look for a couple of bolts inside the bed that hold the entire assembly on the truck. Removing those bolts should let you pull the entire tail light away from the body.

Follow your top radiator hose,your thermostat is in cover,its bad,pull out and check by putting in hot water at 180 degrees,it should open,then close after you take out of hot water,is it staying open,it needs to be replaced.

follow the positive battery cable to the starter.

above oil filter.

Go to autozone.com and look under repair info, put in year, make and model and you should find what your looking for step by step.

Concentric slave cylinder mounting-1996-99 vehicles equipped with the New Venture Gear transmission.Its mounted in your transmission,but the bleeder screw is assible because theres a hole in transmission,where bleeder is,just put wrench on and loosen,have someone one push clutch pedal to floor and hold,then open valve,do this till air is gone,theres another hole next to hole where bleeder screw is,a metal tube comes out of that one,its the clutch fluid line,good luck.

I just went through hell putting one in. There are two bolts that have to come out. The bottom bolt is basically easy. However, I found that if you can reach it, you can go over the top of the bell housing on (manual transmissions anyway) to get to the top bolt.

To elaborate on this explanation, the removal of the starter in a 1995 Nissan Pickup, 2WD or 4WD, is very doable; just takes time and patience. I am certainly an amateur mechanic, but I managed to do it all, plus a few other things, on a Saturday.

To replace the starter, I first had to find it. Finally figured out it was on the passenger side of the truck, just behind the top of the passenger wheel. Chiltons recommends removing the wheel for only the 2wd model, but even with the lift from a 4wd, I would recommend taking off the wheel, because it is one tight fit in there even if you were only like 5'2" and 120. I am bigger then that, hence I took the wheel off - make sure to jack it up safely though, don't want the disc brakes crashing down on your knees as you kneel there.

The starter is located directly beneath the oil filter (lord knows why they chose that as a location, it was covered in oil), just behind the interior wheel well frame. You have to remove the rock guard to see inside, but that is just a snap removal system. Once you have access, remove the oil filter, and the oil sensor gauge (a cord to the left of the oil filter with a long maroon colored collar in my truck), as well as the exhaust pipe heat shield insulator. This was the hardest part in my opinion. The bolts for the heat shield over the exhaust pipe were so corroded from salt in Eastern Washington roads, they just snapped right off. Also, taking off the lower portion of the heat shield was so tight, i finally just bent it out of the way and chucked it - i decided i would insulate with a fiberglass wrap instead, because there was no way I was forcing that thing back in, let along drilling new holes for bolts.

Once all that stuff is off, your ready to remove the starter. My recommendation is to remove all the electrical gear, including the brass housing covering the positive terminal connection from the battery. Then comes the best part; there are two bolts to remove, both of which connect from the back side of the engineer compartment, forward in to the starter housing. The top one is fairly easy to reach from underneath if you have the heat insulator shield removed - the bottom those has two fuel lines in the way and I had to use a breaker bar at an angle to crank it off slowly. Both bolts are slow to remove, but once they are free the rapidly become finger capable, as they are only 2.5 to 3 inches long. Once those bad boys are out, jump back up in to the wheel well, juggle the starter out the side towards your chest (some people have advocated up through the engineer or to the front but i think their crazy) and then presto, you got the SOBTR out. Now just do everything in reverse order, make sure to refill your oil, jack it down and start it up. Make sure to check the flywheel teeth while you have the starter off for wear though - if that beast is going out though, I would definitely recommend a shop, not a fun job to replace the flywheel.

If the fuse keeps blowing it has to be a short or the fuel pump dragging causing a large current demand. It can be shorted anywhere from the fuse box to and including the fuel pump internally. Try disconnecting the fuel pump and see if the fuse blows if so run a new wire (fused) to the pump, see if it blows. Start at one end of an electrical problem (Fuse) and go the the other end (Pump), then go to the middle if you have the right wire you can cut it in half and see if the fuse blows. You can get a self resetting fuse. If it gets impossible you can short the fuse connectors (wire or a large amp fuse) and look for smoke, it'll happen, but I would disconnect the fuel pump first.

You need your clutch damper,it regulates how much pressure is applied to your operating cylinder.

it depends on the actual model Nissan pickup, but most vehicles made after 1994 take R134 refrigerant. The refrigerant type and amount is listed in the owner's manual.

3rd mark count from right to left

Check your clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder for leaks,if no leaks,then you need a new clutch kit.

Not good. Sounds like engine damage or timing chain broke or jumped a tooth??? I am no expert here. Good luck.

bottom left side hosing unit ,with short rubber hose through fire wall

it is probably in the blower motor, at least that is where it is on the 1995 truck. take out glove blox/ remove black metal cover behind glove box. It is the white connector in plain site..

1994 Nissan D21 Pickup brake light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

Depends how much money do you want to spend,you can go to autozone.com and enter your vehicles info and enter battery and the batteries they sell for your 90 model will appear.they also have repair guides you can use,just become a autozone member and you can use there guides,it so cool...

First open bleeder screw on slave cylinder and drain fliud.Your slave cylinder is bolted on to your transmission with 2 bolts,take bolts out and remove fluid line from slave cylinder.Screw fluid line to new slave cylinder and set end of slave cylinder into fork position ,then screw 2 bolts in and fill clutch master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid and pump clutch pedal a few times and hold to floor and open bleeder screw to let air out ,do this until all air is gone,dont let clutch master cylinder fluid get low while doing this,you might want to get a clear hose and attach to bleeder screw and other end in glass jar with brake fluid so you can see air coming out.

"How much is the cost of the Catalytic converter on a 1997 Nissan truck?"

assuming you have the new alternator, make sure if your belt is warn you have a new one on hand, there are 2 bolts to be concerned with, the top one on the sliding bracket and the bottom one that holds the alternator, loosen the slide bracket bolt to free the belt, remove belt and the bolt. then remove the bottom bolt (might need a breaker bar for this). but new one in the way the old on came out. make sure you tighten the belt correctly on the alternator or it could fly off.