Oldsmobile Intrigue

It is located on the front passenger side of the motor. It is part of the water neck assembly. You have to replace the entire unit neck and all. They run about 50 dollars. Actually the thermostat on the 2000 Intrigue is located on the drivers side of the motor.

This is on a 1998 Olds. Intrigue 3800 V6

Yes it has four.

Yes it has four.

It is located above the starter. you must remove the starter for access. Make sure you disconnect the battery first.

5.5 quarts in the 3.5L 4.5 quarts in the 3.8L These amounts include a filter change.

On the 2002 model, it is on the left side (passenger) of the motor. It is the opposite of what we normally expect. The lower radiator hose is what attaches to the thermostat housing, along with the heater hose and overflow tank hose. I ended up buying the thermostat with housing for $27. No one would sell the thermostat by itself.

I recommend you use AC/Delco. They are excellent plugs and are OEM. Any auto parts store can tell you which A/C Delco plugs to install.

your coolant tank should be on the pass. side inner fender

I put an aftermarket system in my intrigue, and don't recall a "stereo accessory wire". Do you mean the power antenna wire? Or is this a wire on your aftermarket box? Here's a GM diagram: http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf

there is not exactly a flasher relay for this car. technically your hazard switch is the flasher relay. you can get this "hazard switch " for about $30 on gmpartsdirect.com. i had to replace mine last year and i was also under the impression that i needed a flasher relay since the turn signal would just stay on. I had to fudge around with hazard switch push it a few time for the signals to work. that is when i figured it out that hazard switch is the flasher relay. i hope this helps.

It's a bear to get to all the bolts on the back side of the block. Remove the decorative cover on the top of the engine and the block looks pretty much like any other. Remove the valve cover, clean it and the head surface off well, replace gasket, reassemble, re-torque the cover bolts in the proper order (and I don't know what that is off the top of my head). Lots of mechanics use a better sealant than what comes in the gasket kit. I gladly pay a mechanic to bust his knuckles doing such a job. You probably want to replace the front gasket at the same time, and inspect both the heads and cams for damage. If you are replacing the gasket because it appears to be leaking, it makes some sense to suspect additional damage. SOme blow-by is expected, your engine block will not remain spotless.

The key has a built in Chip and can only be purchased from a Olds. dealer cost is around $21.

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The ignition actually uses PKII (pk2)system. There is not a resistor in the key. The chip is on the key lock cylinder not the key. Dealer is still the best place to get them. Last one I got was 9 dollars.

http://www.oempartsguys.com/blog/how-to-find-your-replacement-sun-visor/

Purchase the fuel filter from NAPA or any other parts store. It runs around $15.00. The filter is located under the car, just in frount of the rear drivers side tire. I pulled off the connector on the rear of the filter, watch out for spurting gas, and connected the new filter onto the hose. Then I removed the bracket bolt for the filter and the two tie down clamp bolts going toward the front of the car. I did this because the nut was rusted pretty bad and it allowed me to drop the filter down enough to get a good attack angle on it to break it free. I then screwed on the new filter tight, checked for leaks, and replaced all the hardware. Whalllahhh !!

to reset this you do the following:

Put the key into the "run" position, without starting the car, but with the fan, radio, lights, etc. running.

once in that position, full depress and release the accelerator pedal 3 times in a row, you will see the oil change light flash a few times on the dash, and you're done!

start up the car, and the light should no longer be lit.

Instructions on how to do this can also be found in the manual, just look for "change oil light" in the index in the back, and it gives you detailed instructions on how to do this.

Check the connection at the battery terminals. If either one works slightly loose you will think your car is ready for the scrapyard. Sometimes all the dash warning lights will flash on and off and your car will stall if a connection is loose.

It's not very likely that a 4 cylinder will have 2 banks, unless the engine is in a "v" confinguration. Haven't heard of a V-4, but it's possible.

Oxygen sensors for inline engines are on the exhaust manifold, just past the point where all 4 cylinders have joined.

There are two . One is ahead of the converter & one is below the converter. They are called upstream & downstream sensors.

in front of the converter

Is this a 3.5L Intrigue V6 engine? If so, it should be behind the left exhaust manifold. You will need to remove the starter to gain access.

I can answer this because I just finished mine today. :)

First off you are going to need some good tools and at the least six jack stands if you are performing this feat on the ground. ( Not using a lift )

The process requires that you lower the back half of your engine cradle and it can be DANGEROUS. You will be removing two large bolts that support your engine and transmission and I am talking about letting loose over 600 pounds of steel right above your head so if you do not think you are up to this DO NOT ATTEMPT IT! With that said I'll give you a good rundown of the job.

1. Park your car on a hard level surface and set your parking brake. DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR FREAKIN YARD OR GRAVEL DRIVEWAY! ( Unless you want to be crushed by a 3,00 pound car )

2. loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET )

3. Raise and support your vehicle on four good jack stands.

( Or you can do like I did and use two steel ramps at the rear of the car and two jack stands on the front. If you choose to do it this way don't loosen your front lugs until you have backed your vehicle onto the ramps and SET YOUR PARKING BRAKE )

4. Remove the front wheels and disconnect your vehicles battery.

5. Make sure your wheel hubs are pointing straight ahead and then separate the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and inspect your outer tie rod ends for wear and boot damage if they flop around like a limp noodle they are shot and need to be replaced. Now is a good time to replace them because when all is said and done you will need to have your vehicle aligned anyway. Outer tie rod ends can be bought for around $20 bucks. ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE OLD RACK YET ) 6. Just under the driver side in the wheel well look through at the rack and pinion closest to you. You will notice where the intermediate shaft joins with the rack.

There will be a rubber dust cover covering the shaft. You might see a warning label wrapped around the dust cover. Go ahead and push the dust cover above the racks stub shaft and access the intermediate shafts pinch bolt. Use a long extension to reach this bolt and remove it. Take a heavy screwdriver and gently pry off the intermediate shaft. ( NOTE do not disturb "ROTATE" the steering wheel at this point because it will affect reinstallation and cause damage to the steering column and your air bag wiring. 7. Place two jack stands under the rear outer edges of the engine cradle and position them as to allow the engine cradle to lower down to them about 4 inches then support the rear of the engine cradle in the center just behind the transmission pan with a good floor jack. ( NOT THE PAN ITSELF ) Apply just enough pressure with the floor jack to support the engine cradle when the two rear engine cradle bolts are removed so the engine and transmission does not fall out. ( DANGER BE CAREFUL!! ) ( It is best to position the floor jack with the pump handle facing out toward the front of the car.

8. Remove the two large rear engine cradle bolts and GENTLY lower the floor jack so the engine cradle will rest on your two jack stands you placed under the engine cradle for support. ( Do not lower the engine cradle too far you will cause the rear of the engine to hit the firewall and you will damage your engine! ) 9. Once you have made sure your engine cradle is secure resting on the jack stands you will now have access to the two power steering lines connected to your rack. You will need a 18mm wrench to remove them. Place a drain pan under the car and remove both the high pressure line and the return line from your old rack and allow them to drain into the pan. ( remove the power steering fluid fill cap to allow them to drain more easily ) Remove your serpentine belt from the power steering pulley and spin the pulley by hand this will evacuate the remaining old power steering fluid from the pump.

Now is a good time to fill and flush your power steering pump with fresh power steering fluid and spin the pump pulley by hand again to force out all of the old dirty fluid. ( Do this until the fluid runs clear )

10. Next There are two bolts and nuts that hold in your rack you will see them on the bottom of the rack one on each side. You will again need a 18mm wrench and 18mm ratchet to remove these bolts. If your car is equipped with magna steer disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to your rack. ( It's on the drivers side )

11. Carefully remove the old rack through the driver side wheel well. Pay attention and don't manhandle the rack out because you can damage your power steering hoses and electrical wires. 12. Carefully install the new rack the same way you took it out and bolt it in. The new rack should come with new o rings for the power steering lines USE THEM. Reattach the power steering hoses and tighten them to 20 foot pounds of torque. reattach the magna steer connector. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE POWER STEERING LINES YOU WILL RIP OUT THE THREADS!! )

13. Raise the engine cradle back into position and bolt it in. ( I recommend that you use thread locker on the engine cradle bolts DON'T USE TOO MUCH OR YOU WILL NEVER REMOVE THEM EVER AGAIN ) Once you have the engine cradle secured back in you can remove the jack stands you supported the cradle with and remove the floor jack.

14. If you are using new tie rod ends or reusing the old ones you will need to count how many threads they are screwed on the old rack so your alignment will be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. Count how many threads the jamb nut is from the inside of the racks inner tie rod and make a note of it and then count how many turns it takes you to unscrew the outer tie rod from the racks inner tie rod and also make a note of it. You will need to repeat this for each side as they both will be different. Screw the jamb nut onto the new racks inner tie rod and use your notes to position the new or reused tie rod onto the new rack. once you are happy with this reconnect the outer tie rods to their steering knuckles and then tighten the jamb nut against the outer tie rod. 15. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir and reattach your serpentine belt to the power steering pulley. Reattach the intermediate shaft to the racks stub shaft and reinsert the pinch bolt. (DANGER!! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FULLY ENGAGED WITH THE STUB SHAFT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE PINCH BOLT! ) Place the dust cover back over the shaft and reconnect the battery. 16. Start the car and SLOWLY turn your steering wheel from stop to stop several times to help purge air from the new rack. ( This may take you several times ) Your power steering pump will whine for a bit as you do this. Make sure you keep the power steering fluid topped off. Now look under the car and check for leaks from the power steering lines.

17. Reattach the front wheels and GET YOUR CAR TO AN ALIGNMENT SHOP or you will regret it later. Hope this helps

I believe they all came with 16" x 8" with P225-60R16s. The max size rim would have to consider the tire profile you use. I would ask a tire and wheel place as to what combination would work. A very low profile tire would require an 18" or maybe even a 20" rim to match overall circumference with the stock tire. You can probably increase the width to perhaps a 9" rim with P245 tires without wheel well interference. You also need to keep the wheel inset (dish) spacing to avoid wheel bearing damage and having the tires sticking out from the wheel wells. A lot of enthusiasts like the look of the low profile 20R- or 30R- tires on larger rims, but these do not have good road hazard and pothole handling, and many turn into ice skates on wet or icy roads. They also cost a lot more. Believe it or not, the engineers at GM probably have put the best overall wheel/tire combination on the car already.

Low pressure port - Larger hose from air compressor