Oldsmobile Intrigue

First, You must turn it on with the "1" button on the upper left hand steering wheel switch. You have to be going faster than 25 MPH. Then press the "+" (Set/Accel) or "-" (Set/Coast) button and release. The "=" is the resume function and will return you to the previous speed after you step on the brake. I dont think you should be driving a car if you have to ask a question like this Read your owners manual

Probably. When you signed the loan, both parties likely agreed to the terms. It doesn't matter who is in "posession", because the loan company holds title. Call the loan company up and offer a payment schedule that works for you. Beleive me, they don't want the car back. They want you to pay off the car.

The most likely cause is either a bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Replace those two things and see if the problem persists.

Check and make sure you don't have the "Auto" option selected on your Heating and Air conditioning control panel. This feature lets the car "automatically" turn on or off to adjust the temperature in the cabin to the temperature set on the display. To turn it off, just press the "Off" button.

To turn off "change oil" light:

# Turn off car. # Turn key to "on"; do not start it, just turn to "on" position. # Firmly depress accelerator three times, pausing for a second after each pump. # After 3 to 5 seconds, "change oil" light will flash and then turn off. # must depress gas pedal 3 times inside of 5 seconds, should hear a chime and the light will reset. This is found in the owners manual

As that name would imply it controls an opening. It's located in the refrigerant line just before the point where the high pressure liquid flows into the evaporator. It's purpose is to manage the flow of refrigerant to keep the evaporator cold without icing. I suspect you are asking this question because you've been told by a shop that it needs to be replaced, but you're choking on the cost. Replacing it requires opening the refrigerant lines, which involves some special, and pricey, tools and equipment, not to mention knowledge and safety procedures, not usually available in a home garage. I count myself a fairly intrepid DIY'er, and have even done some of my own AC repair in the 70's, but I would take this one to a pro, or do without. Get a second opinion, maybe, because it could be something else, but don't just go for the lowball estimate unless it's from somebody with a sparkling reputation.

The horn relay on an Oldsmobile Intrigue is on the driver's side of the engine compartment. It is in the corner where the back firewall meets the fender of the vehicle.

You need a Z7 Clutch puller.

not sure of any brand but the fluid will be clear and auto parts dealer will have it(just ask for clear p/s fluid)

ITs a bit of a pain.

The book tells you to take apart the suspension but who wants to do that so I will give you what I think is an easier version.

Quick version.

Remove both cross braces (strut tower to the upper radiator core support).

Remove air cleaner box and tube.

Remove the upper engine torque mount bracket and remove it from the radiator core support.

Remove the battery and the battery tray.

Remove the radiator and condenser fan assembly.

Remove the battery wires and clips from the alternator.

Drain the overflow bottle.

Remove the overflow bottle nuts and set it aside / to the back a bit.

Remove the nut holding the fuse junction block and set it to the back a bit.

Use a wire if you need to tie back the overflow and the fuse block out of the way of the belt.

Use a ½ inch drive ratchet on the belt tenchoner and remove the serpentine belt.

Alternator has 3 bolts 2 on the side of it or the front of the motor and one on the front of it / side of the motor.

Remove the idler pulley next to the alternator this is bolt one.

Loosen both side bolts don't remove yet.

Messy part.

Remove the water neck / thermostat housing and lower radiator hose.

Alternator will not come out without taking this off.

Pull it back out of the way.

Finnish taking the front bolts out.

You can now slide the alternator out to the side and up the battery area.

It is tight but will come out.

You should not have to replace the gasket on your thermostat housing.

However be careful putting it back on do it evenly.

80 inch lbs (6.67ft lbs) to hold it on. It's not that much just good and snug.

IF you got that far you should be able to put it all back right.

:P

You can't take off the "governor" on any computerized car.

I doubt it is different from the 1998 model I have. The fuse is the same one that feeds the wiper motor and the circuit card for the intermittent wipers. The washer pump motor is fed from this circuit, so if the wipers work, the fuse is not blown. The pump itself is on the solvent tank between the right front fender and the battery. If a helper can hear the pump run when you press the washer button with the key in the "on" position, the indication is that the line is plugged or the tank is empty. If the pump is silent, you have a bad power connection, a bad ground, or a failed pump motor.

Good luck! New pumps ~ $35-$50 for OEM, ~$23 for a similar aftermarket pump.

I never figured out the fuse, but you can test for voltage to it when the switch is pushed on. I just did this on my 2000, ended up replacing the pump. The easiest way to get to it is to remove the front passenger tire wheel well cover, at least enough of it to get your hand in there.

YOU MUST NOT CHANGE THE OIL WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT. LET ENGINE COOL OR YOU MIGHT GET SEVERLY BURNED! First you find a container that will fit comfortably underneath the vehicle, and large enough to hold around 2-3 gallons. Cut a hole on one side large enough to catch oil as you're draining it from the engine. Get a crescent wrench and a funnel. Crawl underneath the vehicle with your container and wrench. Locate the oil pan. (This will be a smooth container directly underneath the motor with a single bolt at the lowest point of it.) Carefully place the container beneath the bolt and slowly remove the bolt. Either finish removing the bolt by hand after loosening (preferred) or let bolt fall into container and fish it out of the oil later. Keep in mind that you will get dirty so wear old clothes. Oil does stain. After oil has completely drained put the bolt back in fairly tight. Ask a local automotive store which oil is best for you. Pop the hood and remove the oil dipstick. It should have some marking indicating the correct fill level. Use the funnel and pore the oil slowly and carefully into the oil pan. Be careful not to overfill. And also be sure to wipe the dipstick with a papertowel or cloth before checking the oil level. This is for an accurate reading.

35 mm

For a 3.5L engine the plugs are under the coil packs on top of each head. The front side is pretty easy to access, 7 bolts and it comes off. Unplug the coil pack connector on the end to remove the coil pack from the engine. The back side is the same, only you can't see it as easy. The plugs are down in the head, connected to the coil pack by a rubber sleeve with a spring in it (there are no plug wires). This is commonly called COP (Coil Over Plug). Buy the original AC Delco (actually NGK) plugs, as the Champions, Split fires, and other platinum brands will not work as well for some reason. Torque each plug to 18 ft-lbs, and make sure the coil packs are thoroughly checked for cracks and electrical integrity before reinstalling. I tested my coils and they each had about 33 ohms between the coil and ground spring. Visually look them over for cracks or holes. The bad news - plugs are about $7 each, the coil packs are $300 each if you need one. I haven't tried a junkyard for coil packs, but I'd bet you could find them there. I also suggest removing the battery "hot" wire while you change plugs to avoid arc welding tools to your engine. Tools needed: 5/8 spark plug socket, 3/8 drive ratchet (flex head works better), socket extensions. Follow the spark plug wires to the spark plugs, unplug the wire one at a time and remove the plug. Gap new plug with the correct and gap and proceed to put new plug in. Be careful not to crossthred the plug. Repeat this procedure for all of them. One of the plugs is difficult to get to. On that particular plug, it might be easier going from underneath the car.

I've seen forums that state that you remove the 'DRL' fuse located in the passenger fuse compartment, but there are no fuses labeled 'DRL'. I am well aware that the DRL/ Automatic headlights are a "feature", but it's irritating to neighbors when I start my car at night, and my headlights automatically turn on and shine into their windows. I know that I can turn on the parking lights to shut off the headlights, or push the parking brake in to have it start without the lights automatically coming on, but it would be simpler to just turn the lights on when i want them to turn on. The DRL's are hideous. I have silverstar 3157 bulbs and the car looks much nicer in front without those 2 big orange lights shining.

Looking at the front of the car, it's on the passenger side, just in front of the radiator, about half way down. Have to take the radiator out to get to it - It's a pain.

On the lower left side of the dashboard is a switch to turn on the cruise control. Depress the switch downward to activate. Once activated, set the speed on the steering wheel speed control.

Step 1 : The Crankshaft Position Is located above the starer...

Step 2 : You have to remove the start which has 2 bolts...

Step 3 : Once you remove the starter remove the "Positive Cable" held on by a "10mm" bolt if I'm correct...

Step 4 : Once you have completely removed the starter remove the A/T brace I think it's 2 or 3 "10mm" bolts holding that on...

Step 5 : Once A/T is removed the Crankshaft Position Sensor should be visible...To easily identify there is a connector hanging out of it...It is located in the center of the block rite below cylinder 2, 4, and 6's exhaust manifold....

Step 6 : There is only 1 bolt keeping the sensor from coming out I believe it is either a "10mm" or "11mm"...once the bolt is out there is nothing keeping the Crankshaft position sensor from coming out except to O-ring...You can use a tire iron which I used but be VERY CAREFUL...Because the actually part that makes the sensor work could break off then you will need to drop the oil pan and push it through....

Hopefully This Helps...

There is no code associated with the "Change Oil" light like there is with the "Service Engine Soon" light.

about 1.5 to 2 gallons at 50/50

you will have to go to a junk yard and get another arm from a different vehicle. but first make sure that when you take the arm off of your vehicle, check that the teeth on the "little nob" are not ruined. if they are you will need the wipper motor for the passager side as well.

I suspect that after the flush, your ratio of coolant to water changed and the "coolant" is more concentrated. The term "coolant" is a bit of an oxymoron. Its purpose is really to prevent/reduce corrosion, and to improve the overall boiling and freezing points of the mixture, but it itself is poorer conductor of heat than pure water. Too high of a mixture of coolant will actually cause poorer cooling, however too low can cause boil-over. You want the proper mixture....and maybe you do have that now and it had become dilluted over time before your flush. If in doubt, have it tested. It's also possible you have an air bubble trapped somewhere in the system preventing proper coolant flow. You might consult a local professional and ask about "burping" the cooling system. They might tell you how to do it yourself. Particles Loosened Particles in the system could have been loosened in the process of the flush causing a different area in the system to become clogged. This is a common occurance in after flushing the system. Another problem could be air trapped in the system as mentioned above. Loosen the burp plug 3/4 turn on the thermostat housing just after starting a cool engine. Remove radiator cap and add 50/50 mixture as needed until antifreeze starts coming out of burp plug. Tighten plug and replace radiator cap when radiator filled to top of neck. You may also want to consider replacing radiator cap with a new "Stant" cap without the plastic lever. They are proven to hold pressure more consistently and be made of better quality. Only use green antifreeze after flushing system. Don't ever use Dex-Cool for various very costly problems it has proven to cause.

Wheel speed or ABS sensor's are located on the suspension Knuckle Front and Rear.