Oldsmobile Intrigue

Wheel speed or ABS sensor's are located on the suspension Knuckle Front and Rear.

check your local junkyard. most junkyards will pull the item for you. This will save a lot of money.

The ETC sensor on the 2002 Olds 3.5 engine is located at the right rear of engine, below the throttle body at the head not the block.

remove steering column shroud (housing)

the switch is mounted to the column with two snaps, push on them to release the switch from column, unplug electrical connection at the end of wires

It is under the car, on the driver's side, about a foot in front of the rear tire (basically, below the rear driver's side door). There is a threaded fitting on one end, where it connects to the hard line running forward to the engine, and a snap-on fitting on the other end, where it connects to the hose from the gas tank & fuel pump. It is also held in place by a bracket that bolts to the subframe. To remove the snap-on piece, there are two white clips that you squeeze together (inward, toward the tubing - I used a needle-nose pliers to squeeze), and while squeeing, simply pull off the rear hose. To remove the threaded end, use the right size wrench (not an adjustable) on the nut that's on the tubing, and a larger wrench on the filter itself. IF my memory serves me right, the smaller fitting nut is 5/8". Whoever changed my filter the first time (the dealer!) rounded the line fitting (presumably using the wrong size or a non-snug adjustable wrench), so it was really hard for me to get a wrench on it. Don't make that mistake yourself. - Intrigue Owner in Atlanta

It not only has several "rows" in the fuse box, there are two fuse boxes. Apparently you haven't found either of them yet. One is on the passenger side of the dash between the door and dash behind a pull-off access panel. The other is under the hood on the passenger side behind a panel under a big red connector cover.

The rear deck comes out in one piece, to remove first remove the the seat base there will be 2 ring pulls under both seats then remove the seat back there will be 2 nuts on the bottom and 4 on the top under the seat backs (folded down) then the rear deck is held on with push pegs in the front and there are two slots in the back by the window that you have to push down on the deck to unhook then the whole rear deck comes out and there will be 4 screws in each speaker

Remove the serpentine belt and the altenator. The water pump is behind the alternator. Make sure to drain the antifreeze.

Yes you can. Just put on a smaller serpantine belt. Thats what i did and works fine. My wife couldn't stand the ac anyway.

First you need to take off the molding around the top of the radio (use a screw drive and it will pop off). You will notice that this will take the "top-half" half off of the trim. Second there are two screws under the center console arm rest. Take those out and you be able to pop the rest of the trim to get to the light bulb installed.

I have a 98 Oldsmobile and the ac blender motor is stuck on the hot temp position how can i replace or repair this item.

If the fan only goes on high ir some of the slow speeds don't work:

Answer, replace fan resistor

There is a resistor "network" board up under the glove box mounted to firewall.

It is tricky to get out and really hard to bolt back in. I recall i din't get one bolt back in.

It is probaly a dealer only part.

flex drive 1/4 socket set will help

A label(black) shows the belt route under the hood on the passangerside strut tower

I can answer this because I just finished mine today. :)

First off you are going to need some good tools and at the least six jack stands if you are performing this feat on the ground. ( Not using a lift )

The process requires that you lower the back half of your engine cradle and it can be DANGEROUS. You will be removing two large bolts that support your engine and transmission and I am talking about letting loose over 600 pounds of steel right above your head so if you do not think you are up to this DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!

With that said I'll give you a good rundown of the job.

1. Park your car on a hard level surface and set your parking brake. DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR FREAKING YARD OR GRAVEL DRIVEWAY! ( Unless you want to be crushed by a 3,000 pound car )

2. loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET )

3. Raise and support your vehicle on four good jack stands.

( Or you can do like I did and use two steel ramps at the rear of the car and two jack stands on the front. If you choose to do it this way don't loosen your front lugs until you have backed your vehicle onto the ramps and SET YOUR PARKING BRAKE )

4. Remove the front wheels and disconnect your vehicles battery.

5. Make sure your wheel hubs are pointing straight ahead and then separate the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and inspect your outer tie rod ends for wear and boot damage if they flop around like a limp noodle they are shot and need to be replaced. Now is a good time to replace them because when all is said and done you will need to have your vehicle aligned anyway. Outer tie rod ends can be bought for around $20 bucks. ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE OLD RACK YET )

6. Just under the driver side in the wheel well look through at the rack and pinion closest to you. You will notice where the intermediate shaft joins with the rack.

There will be a rubber dust cover covering the shaft. You might see a warning label wrapped around the dust cover. Go ahead and push the dust cover above the racks stub shaft and access the intermediate shafts pinch bolt. Use a long extension to reach this bolt and remove it. Take a heavy screwdriver and gently pry off the intermediate shaft. ( NOTE do not disturb "ROTATE" the steering wheel at this point because it will affect re-installation and cause damage to the steering column and your air bag wiring.

7. Place two jack stands under the rear outer edges of the engine cradle and position them as to allow the engine cradle to lower down to them about 4 inches then support the rear of the engine cradle in the center just behind the transmission pan with a good floor jack. ( NOT THE PAN ITSELF ) Apply just enough pressure with the floor jack to support the engine cradle when the two rear engine cradle bolts are removed so the engine and transmission does not fall out. ( DANGER BE CAREFUL!! ) ( It is best to position the floor jack with the pump handle facing out toward the front of the car.

8. Remove the two large rear engine cradle bolts and GENTLY lower the floor jack so the engine cradle will rest on your two jack stands you placed under the engine cradle for support. ( Do not lower the engine cradle too far you will cause the rear of the engine to hit the firewall and you will damage your engine! )

9. Once you have made sure your engine cradle is secure resting on the jack stands you will now have access to the two power steering lines connected to your rack. You will need a 18mm wrench to remove them. Place a drain pan under the car and remove both the high pressure line and the return line from your old rack and allow them to drain into the pan. ( remove the power steering fluid fill cap to allow them to drain more easily ) Remove your serpentine belt from the power steering pulley and spin the pulley by hand this will evacuate the remaining old power steering fluid from the pump.

Now is a good time to fill and flush your power steering pump with fresh power steering fluid and spin the pump pulley by hand again to force out all of the old dirty fluid. ( Do this until the fluid runs clear )

10. Next There are two bolts and nuts that hold in your rack you will see them on the bottom of the rack one on each side. You will again need a 18mm wrench and 18mm ratchet to remove these bolts. If your car is equipped with magna steer disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to your rack. It is on the drivers side.

11. Carefully remove the old rack through the driver side wheel well. Pay attention and don't manhandle the rack out because you can damage your power steering hoses and electrical wires.

12. Carefully install the new rack the same way you took it out and bolt it in. The new rack should come with new o rings for the power steering lines USE THEM. Reattach the power steering hoses and tighten them to 20 foot pounds of torque. reattach the magna steer connector. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE POWER STEERING LINES YOU WILL RIP OUT THE THREADS!! )

13. Raise the engine cradle back into position and bolt it in. ( I recommend that you use thread locker on the engine cradle bolts DON'T USE TOO MUCH OR YOU WILL NEVER REMOVE THEM EVER AGAIN ) Once you have the engine cradle secured back in you can remove the jack stands you supported the cradle with and remove the floor jack.

14. If you are using new tie rod ends or reusing the old ones you will need to count how many threads they are screwed on the old rack so your alignment will be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. Count how many threads the jamb nut is from the inside of the racks inner tie rod and make a note of it and then count how many turns it takes you to unscrew the outer tie rod from the racks inner tie rod and also make a note of it. you will need to repeat this for each side as they both will be different Screw the jamb nut onto the new racks inner tie rod and use your notes to position the new or reused tie rod onto the new rack. once you are happy with this reconnect the outer tie rods to their steering knuckles and then tighten the jamb nut against the outer tie rod.

15. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir and reattach your serpentine belt to the power steering pulley. Reattach the intermediate shaft to the racks stub shaft and reinsert the pinch bolt. (DANGER!! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FULLY ENGAGED WITH THE STUB SHAFT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE PINCH BOLT! ) Place the dust cover back over the shaft and reconnect the battery.

16. Start the car and SLOWLY turn your steering wheel from stop to stop several times to help purge air from the new rack. this may take you several times. Your power steering pump will whine for a bit as you do this. Make sure you keep the power steering fluid topped off. Now look under the car and check for leaks from the power steering lines.

17. Reattach the front wheels and GET YOUR CAR TO AN ALIGNMENT SHOP or you will regret it later.

Hope this helps!

"Thing-a-ma-jig". Actually, I don't know of any other servos but the two for the climate control. An old-timer may call them "dash pots".

In a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue the fuse box can be opened by either using a screwdriver or your finger and placing it in the hole and popping it out. Even if you use a screwdriver on the panel nothing will be harmed. It will simply pop back in when done.

You'll need a coil spring compressor. Jack up the rear end. Remove rear tire. Open the rear trunk - remove rubber cover / locate the "three" mounting bolts to the assemby. Remove lower mounting bolt on strut. Remove strut assembly -caution ... it's under a lot of pressure from the coil spring. Remove the OLD strut from the assembly. To replace the new strut, you'll need to compress the coil spring as much as possible. Re-assemble the strut to the mounting hardware. Push the "three bolt" assembly through the trunk mount and tighten. Re-attach the lower mounting bolt to the strut.

Be advised "under a lot of pressure from the coil spring." Is a serious understatement. You need a special tool to compress this strut and attempting to disassemble strut without the tool locking it in could result in SERIOUS injury or even death.

If the car is a 01 or 02 with the 3.5l engine then the oil filter is located in the oil pan. If you look directly at the bottom of the oil pan you will see a black plastic cap (about 3" around). This is the oil filter cover. Remove this cover by unscrewing it ( counter clockwise - using a cup type oil filter wrench ) . The oil filter is in side this cap and is a cartridge type. ( it looks more like a fuel filter than an oil filter.

Unbolt front flange from exhaust pipe Cut or unclamp rear from tail pipe Replace with new converter

There is no "reset" in the wiper motor. If your wipers do not park, it is likely your wiper motor parking contact or cam is broken. Try running the wipers with the key in the "ON" position, then turn the wipers off using their switch while they are up on the windshield. They should park themselves at the bottom. The good news is a wiper motor is pretty cheap at a junkyard, and not too hard to replace.

Instead of removing the A/C vent, remove the kick panel under the steering column and also the speedo assembly. You will have great access to the switch and the whole project should only take 20 minutes. When removing everything just remember to be gentle, you are dealing with plastic.

Under the hood....there are two white pegs that hold the whole headlight piece in...take those out and then pull of the black rubber top over the hole (should be round) and you are there.

I have a 2000 and the turn signal flasher and the hazzads are one unit. I found that if my turn signal stops flashing I can wiggle the hazzard switch to get it working, this is due to a loose connection. Getting to the whole switch requires removing the bezel around the instrument panel. then you can access it from the right hand side. Found a lot of "snap together" dash components on this car. It is much easier to access the flasher/hazard switch by easily prying out the center vents. The flasher unit and cruise control switch are then easily accessible just to the left of this opening. It should be noted that the fault is usually not with hazard/flasher unit but with the multi-function control on the left side of the steering column which is a $250 part to replace unless you can get it from a junk yard.

Here is THE answer as to how to replace the hazard flasher in a 2001 Intrigue!!

Remove Hazard/cruise bezel on front of dash and be very careful as it breaks easily.

1. Remove the center air conditioning vent in the dash. The vent is held in the dash by (4) PLASTIC hooks. Two on top and two on the bottom. The top left hook is almost directly above the left vent adjustment tab on the louver and the bottom left hook is in about the same spot below. The top and bottom right hand hooks are above and below the right louver adjustment tab similar to the left side. They break easily!!!

(2) After removing the vent you will be able to see the Hazard/cruise control retainer. This retainer is made from black plastic and has (2) rather large flaps on the left and right side of the hazard switch which is in the top part of the carrier. Simply squeeze BOTH together and the whole thing will fall out behind the dash.

(3) Both the switches have the usual electrical connections. The hazard switch has a whitetab on the right side that is depressed to free the connector. The cruise switch has a green lift tab to free the connector. You can now remove the carrier with both switches.

(4) The hazard switch is in a green sleeve which must be removed from the black group carrier. Figures doesn't it! to do that depress the green tabs on the sides of the sleeve to get it out, I had to break the tabs off to do that. Do not worry about breaking the tabs since the new part includes this sleeve. The new part from GM at the dealer cost 71.86 as of 10/27/08.

(5) Now replace the faulty switch and reassemble. If you have the part in hand BEFORE you start this should be a 30 minute job.

Another comment if the turn signals do not work but the cornering lights do then try this first

The hazard switch is the fix for my 2000 Intrigue. Could not get the part locally so sprayed electrical cleaner into the switch seems to be a good fix so far , we will see how long it will last until I have to order the part from the GM website. 2/13/2010

Inside the engine. You have to take the oil pan off.

i have a problem with the washer pump

when i put a voltage tester on the connection it jumps all around from 5 volts to 10

You remove the 'button' which may be held in with a small Allen screw or a flat spring inside. -Get 'Loctite Auto Mirror adhesive' and re-stick the button to window.

Assuming it's in the same place as on my '98, it is under the car, on the driver's side, about a foot in front of the rear tire (basically, below the rear driver's side door). There is a threaded fitting on one end, where it connects to the hard line running forward to the engine, and a snap-on fitting on the other end, where it connects to the hose from the gas tank & fuel pump. It is also held in place by a bracket that bolts to the subframe. To remove the snap-on piece, there are two white clips that you squeeze together (inward, toward the tubing - I used a needle-nose pliers to squeeze), and while squeeing, simply pull off the rear hose. To remove the threaded end, use the right size wrench (not an adjustable) on the nut that's on the tubing, and a larger wrench on the filter itself. IF my memory serves me right, the smaller fitting nut is 5/8". Whoever changed my filter the first time (the dealer!) rounded the line fitting (presumably using the wrong size or a non-snug adjustable wrench), so it was really hard for me to get a wrench on it. Don't make that mistake yourself. - Intrigue Owner in Atlanta