Oldsmobile Intrigue

I assume you are referring to the radio? It has a four-digit security code that the owner can set. When the power to the radio is disconnected, (either because of battery removal/failure, or because the radio was removed) the radio will "lock" and the four-digit security code must be entered again to unlock the radio, before you will be able to use it again. If you do not know the security code, you will need to take the car to a GM dealership, and they will have to unlock it for you.

I believe it is the 5/8ths inch (the small one). TIP - us the NGK (Delco) platinum plugs for OEM replacement. The Bosch splitfire and others don't work as well.

hub and bearing Could also be your secondary air injection pump, sound lasts for less than a minute usually

You will need the following tools: 19 mm box type wrench, 15 mm socket and ratchet wrench, a 10 mm socket, a 15 mm open end wrench and a pliers. You will need the following parts; the replacement Coolant Temperature Sensor, (got mine at Autozone, just over $14.), a replacement gasket for your thermostat neck, and some fresh Prestone green coolant. (The guys at AZ will usually reset your engine light if you purchase your parts there.) -Make sure engine is completely cool before performing the following steps. If you currently have Dex-Cool antifreeze in the system, do a complete drain and flush of system first. Remove the plastic motor cover, remove the oil filler neck by twisting it CCW, then push down on the back of the cover freeing it from the rear clip. -Remove the rubber hose from the thermostat neck. -Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the thermostat neck in place, then remove the aluminum neck assembly. Now you can see the little guy (sensor) tucked down between the exhaust crossover pipe and the drivers side upper motor mount bracket. -unplug the wire from the sensor, then using the 19 mm box wrench you can remove the old sensor. You will need to keep flipping the wrench over after each short turn, it's a tight space. Might want to remove the upper motor mount connector and loosen the aluminum bracket from the head as this will give you more space to work, you'll need a 15 mm socket and a open end or box wrench (15 mm) for this. You can get the front two bolts out completely but the back bolt you can only loosen since the sensor is in the way for complete removal. -when you have the old sensor out you simply do the above in reverse. Use a new thermostat gasket, clean the old one off completely from both surfaces, careful not to scratch the surface as it is aluminum and easly damaged. -when you have reattached the wire, installed the new thermostat gasket, have all the bolts back in place and reattached the rubber water hose. Now refill the radiator with the Prestone green coolant with a 50/50 mix. Loosen burp plug on thermostat housing 3/4 turn and start engine. Add coolant to radiator until coolant starts flowing out of burp plug and tighten it. Replace radiator cap. Add coolant to plastic overflow resorvoir up to "Full Hot" mark.

The screws are around the door handle and the door latch pop out the plastic behind the latch their may be a screw underneath the door panel and lift the window switch cover out from the bottom next to the handle striaght up off the metal clip slide it through the door then just pop it off the retainers

I'm answering my own question here. I put the 1995 tranny on the 1996 and it works just fine. I just had to put an electronic piece from the 1996 tranny onto the 1995 tranny in order to get the wiring to work. Easy...and the car runs perfect on the 1995 tranny.

Basically you pull the head off and put the new gasket on, but this soirt of work is beyond the scope of an online forum. There's a lot of steps to doing this properly, so I suggest getting a shop manual if you are going to do it. I have replaced head gaskets on other vehicles, and none were what I'd call "easy". In addition to replacing the gasket, you should rebuild the head while you have it all apart. The head needs to be checked for warpage as well.

Fuel pump, pump electrical connector, or fuel lines incorrectly installed.

i would like to know as well

just drain and refill, unless its dark and rusty, then follow directions on the can of flush.. drain is on bottom of radiator also Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a professional shop manual available to make copies of for FREE...make the time to take time to read up on your vehicle, and work like the PRO'S! Good luck :) Dave

I am quite sure it is 0.052 for the 3.5L engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKdDTupYOCM

Its for a 1998 Buick Century, but I believe it is the same on the Intrigue

Service Vehicle Soon comes on because an error code has been set by the on-board diagnostics. Could be any number of problems. You can read and clear this with an OBD-II reader, available for use free at several auto parts stores. The ABS light comes on when there is an ABS sensor error (likely a wheel speed sensor). This is not the same system as the OBD-II, and requires a different reader that appears to be only at brake shops or for sale at some auto stores. The traction control light is related to the ABS (wheel speed sensor usually), but should go off once the wheels turn normally. I'll bet you have a damaged wheel speed sensor. Driving with all these error lights lit may not be damaging the car, but I'd get them checked out asap for safety.

All three lights are connected. You probably felt the brake pedal pulsate first, then the ABS light lit, then a few seconds later the Traction light lit and finally the Service Engine Soon light.

The most common problem causing this error sequence is the wiring harness that connects the ABS wheel sensor to the system. I've repaired a number of Oldsmobiles as well as Buicks (Same basic car) byexamning the harnes and repairing the broken wires. Start with the drivers side front (most likely culprit)

Loosen lugs, turn heel as if making left turn till it stops, jack up car, remove wheel and support vehicle on jack stand. NEVER get under a car while it's being held up only by the jack. On the back of the wheel will be a plug that the harness attaches to. There are only 2 wires in this harness and you will need to disconnest it from the plug and the clips that hold it to the A frame. You may notice that there are kinks or even breaks in the the outer sheath, that would be a good place to look for the break. examine the the wire from the plug back about 12"-14". If you find the break you'll need to repair it ( I cut out the break and any corroded wire and solder a length of new wire in it's place) OR buy a reoplacement harness ... about $45.00. If you don't find the break on the driver's side put it back together and examine the passenger cable as well. Only when doing the passsanger side turn the wheel as if making a right turn.

Chances are you will find a faulty cable and repairing/ replacing it will solve your problem

It is somewhere between extremely unlikely and impossible for all the running lamps in a 2001 Olds Intrigue (or any other vehicle) to fail at one time. It all the lamps are out, find the correct fuse in that circuit and just replace it. If you have one lamp out, but the others light up, it can't be the fuse, can it? No, it cannot. If you have one of those "test lights" with an alligator clip on the end of a wire and an "ice pick looking thing" on the other end of that wire, clamp the 'gator clip on a good ground, start the vehicle, and turn on the lights. Go to the fuse (which you've already identified) and put the "ice pick" on the "hot" end. The lamp should light up. Put it on the other end and see if it lights up. If not, the fuse is bad. If the light won't light up on either end, you have not grounded the test rig properly, or the lights are not on. One end of the fuse should always be "hot" when the lights are turned on, regardless of whether or not the fuse is blown. The other end may or may not light up, depending on whether the fuse has failed or not. Good luck with your troubleshooting.

It is normal for the compressor to cycle on and off If it is cycling excessively could be due to an incorrect refrigerant charge

No, it doesn't. It uses a "passlock" system. The resistor, or "chip" is part of the ignition lock cylinder.

The chip in the key is called "passkey", where there is a resistor in the key, which is quite visible.

The tire size is P225/60R16 for most Intrigues.

To fix this, you'll probably need to replace the pump, which is called an "air pollution pump". It is part of the emissions. Prices range for around $150-$250. Also, you can tell if your pump is working by listening to the car on a cold day when the vehicle starts up. Another definite way to tell is if the fuse for the air pollution pump is blown. This occurs when the pump frezes up, which usually causes it to fail.Look in your owners manual to find the fuse.(please note that after you replace the pump you will need to replace this).Anyway, If you hear a wining noise, that's good! This whining noise is the pump working. The pump comes on to help limit bad vapor such as co2 from escaping into the atmosphere, however Its main function is to help warm up the car until the

oxygen sensors kick in, which can be anywhere from 60-120 seconds. If you don't hear a wining noise, and your check engine light is on, then you will probaly need to get you air pollution pump replaced.

It depends on the year, make, model, mileage and general condition of the vehicle. Consult a trusted mechanic.

no there is only one belt

I had the same problem and it was the ignition switch. Replace it and that should would. You could try to clean the contacts, that should work just as well.

I didn't want to wait, so I bought an ignition switch ($99 for a Duralast switch at Autozone) and installed it. It fixed my headlight problem. The directions to replace the ignition switch are attached. I have read that the ignition switch is the root cause of many electrical issues with Intrigues. My problem was I couldn't turn on the headlights manually, and I had to depend on the automatic headlight feature to turn the lights on at night, which stinks when I wanted headlights at dusk or in light rain (although I could run with fog lights, but darn it, I want my headlights to work!). I have read that others have only been able to turn their lights on manually without the automatic headlight feature working. Both issues appear to be fixed by either replacing the ignition switch or cleaning the terminals on the ignition switch. The theory is that most of the power system flows through that device and affects everything. I have heard about various heating and cooling system issues related to the ignition switch as well.

Worn tires? Try putting them in different location (front to rear) Bent rim?

Approximately 3/8 " when new.