Oldsmobile Intrigue

The first thing you will need is a swivel ratchet, an extension, and spark plug socket 5/8. Look at your engine. Your front plugs are in the order from left to right: 1-3-5. Behind the block you got plugs: 2-4-6 from left to right. Since the front plugs are easy to get to, change out plugs 1-3-5. Do them one at a time!!!!! If you are replacing wires too, be very careful not to get them mixed up. After the front plugs are changed, here comes the hard part. Looking at your engine from the front, you have 2 motor mounts. Loosen the bolts on both mounts. In the left mount, take the bolt out all of the way. Just leave the right mount broken. Have a partner to jump into the car and "bump the motor". That means cranking it up and put it in gear (reverse). This will cause the engine to shift forward. Dont worry: IT WILL NOT FALL!!!! Use a breaker bar to hoist the motor over more by prying on the right mount. Place car back in park and turn car off. Now the back three plugs (2-4-6) should be exposed greatly. Have fun, this is not easy. Be sure to use some good plugs that will last a LONG time. Always use AC Delco (those are GM parts thus the best for a GM Car). I used AC Delco Iridium Platnium plugs. They were expensive ($7 a plug). But they fire better and dont need replacing for 100k miles vs the original 30K and 60K plugs.

no it is has a safety interlock to prevent activation.

I have not been able to find one. The repair manual for the 1998-2000 should pretty much work for the 2001 since it has basically the same engine and whatnot. I have been able to find a DVD ROM through Google. Didnt buy it though. You can sometimes find the actual repair manuals from the dealer on eBay but they usually go for about $100.

haynes publications,inc.-----861 Lawrence drive---newbury park--California 91320 usa

If you do it yourself, the VC gaskets are $53.00 bucks at Autozone, and it will take you all day. If you take it to the stealership, they will charge you twice that in parts and about 3 hours of shop labor. So you will probably plop down something just shy of $500.00.

The gauge on the far right side of the gauge cluster is your engine temperature gauge. The normal operating temperature is at the half-way mark. If the needle raises above the 3/4 mark then the car is overheating. A light will come on also if it begins to overheat.

It is very easy! Take off belt by putting a wrench or socket on tensioner pully and rotating it. belt will come right off. You will have to drain coolant. then take out all of the bolts holding the water pump on. you will have to remove the power sterring pump to get to the very back bolt. Make sure you clean old gasket off of the motor and install new gasket with sealer. reassemble in reverse order.

On '98s at least there is an access hole in the p/s pulley that gives you access to that last bolt

I found no access hole except through the power steering which was easier to remove than the PS pully that a pully remover does not have sufficient room. Two bolts top and bottom through the access holes for the PS pump and it is out of the way of the last water pump bolt.

FIRST OF ALL. IS IT LOCK? OR ARE YOU JUST REPLACING IT?

If its lock, i dont know, but if just replacing it,

turn the key to the on position.

push it and then pull it out

accordint to my repair manual

thats the procedures

if doesnt work sent me an e-mail

ariez_12r@yahoo.com

In my case, I didn't have a car key to unlock the cylinder! This changes the plan a bit. key or no key you will need to first unplug the positive side battery cable. 1, Remove the diagnostic input plug from the panel under the steering wheel, just to get it out of the way because you are going to drop two panels to get to the ignition cylinder. There is a plastic beauty panel and a steel panel under the steering wheel, both are going to be removed. The plastic panel has four push in inserts that pop out with a screw driver, two on one side of steering wheel and two on the other side. This unsnaps the plastic panel on the top closes to the col-em. Now move to the bottom of the panel! There are six black plastic inserts that hold a grey dust cover extending toward the back and the beauty plastic cover. These inserts are vertical and push up through the plastic cover and dust cover. Remove these six black inserts. this will allow the first panel to come off. Remove the steel panel under the steering wheel (Four 10mm bolts and Four 7mm. The four 10mm are up in the holes of the panel. Remove the steel panel. pull the cover around your stereo and ac off to access from that side. pull your stereo out and disconnect it. Now you have access to remove two 7mm screws that drop your whole ignition cylinder housing out. you will need to come down between steering column and console. this takes a little twisting to get it out as there are two awkward arms to the housing. It's easier to disconnect the two main electrical plugs at the bottom of the ignition. Now it should be ready to drop. the cable hooked up on the back is flexible enough to remove in place. you do not need to remove the cable! With the whole cylinder out you can now unlock and pull the center cylinder out with the key. there is a metal square that is a lock to hold the key cylinder into the cylinder. this lock is visible its the only metal you will be able to see on the cylinder. push this in with a screw driver and hold it as you turn the key on. when the lock drops the key cylinder can then be pulled out. Remember! as you pull this center cylinder out three wires inside the cylinder are being pulled out too. then, when you push the new cylinder in the connection will be connected again. You will understand this as yo visually inspect the new key cylinder and its mechanisms. once you have replaced everything. the car will not start! There is a trick to this anti theft system. There are diodes ranging in different ohms to the three wires in the cylinder. the electronic control module (ECM) holds these diodes and reads them according to the cut on the key. However, you have a new key now and it wont read it. the brain is being told there is a different key being inserted. Therefore, you have to program you brain to read the new key. this is done by inserting key and turning to on position. the security light will flash. wait 10 minutes until light stops flashing. when it does restart sequence over two more times for a total of three intervals of 10 minutes. after the third time your car will start because the ECM has now programed that key to the ECM. This system stops ignition systems from being started with screw drivers after the ignition has been snatched out with dent pullers. Nice! If I missed anything you can reach me at archuleta67@gmail.com

According to Crutchfield.com -- 5-1/4" round in the front doors and it shows both 6-1/2" or 6x9" for the rear deck. I'm pretty sure the OE speakers are the 6-1/2" ones. doors are 5.25 round in my 99 rear deck are 6x9

The best way to fix a radio and odometer display that doesn't work is to check the fuses. When you replace the bad fuse then the lights should work in your dash.

You need to replace the entire assembly . done mine 2 ours joe

Unfortunately the only way to do this with newer vehicles is with a scan tool (if light is on you most likely have trouble codes that need to be addressed-faulty sensor or something else). Take it to your local Autozone or other major auto parts chain and most of the time they will scan your computer and reset light for free, with the understanding that you will purchase any parts you might need from them. If not a service station will probably charge you $75-$100 just to hook the stupid thing up.

That "stupid thing" happens to be pretty expensive, therefore the costs are passed on to the consumer. The cost of training and experience on how to troubleshoot today's auto is also very expensive. Any moron can hook up a scanner and clear the codes (not that this will necessarily help you.) Autozone will more often lead you to a situaton that ends up being more expensive than just have a repair shop fix it right. This is more to the point of your question however: Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.

I had a wire broke from rubbing againt something going to the front abs sensors by the brakes / after i repaired the broken wires the lights went out n everything works ok

don't have, its just the cap on top of the engine

Your in tank "sending unit" is most likely bad.

The sender unit is under the rear seat and easy to remove, 6" black plug in floor needs prising out. It is the right hand of 2 black plugs in the floor the left one is the pump. The unit is held in by a threaded plastic cap it may need a hammaer and blunt screw driver or piece of wood to start it turning. I have a problem where the gauge reads low all the time, thought it was because the float arm is stiff but looked at 3 in a scrap yard and they are all stiff. Would be interested to hear if yours turns out to be the same. The low fuel gauge reading was down to lack of experience with this 306. A 60litre tank gave unexpected reults when filling with �30 of petrol expecting it to be full when compared with previous car.

I have the same problem and I'm pretty much certain that the cause is the same, a stiff float arm. I usually drive with a short fuel level and I guess that's the main reason for the issue. The fuel gauge is working perfectly but the pointer is not able to go behond the first reading mark and the reserve LED is always ON.

Apparently it is normal and would make perfect sense. Another contributer on this site stated that the 3.5-liter engine uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. It could be your oil sensor is very sensitive and illuminating to inform you when it only gets a quart low.

It is under the passenger windshield wiper Park the wipers "up" by shutting off the ignition with the door open and the wipers running. Open the hood. On the passenger side-- Unscrew the large headed plastic screw (slotted) and pull out the 2 push rivets that hold the plastic cover at the bottom of the windshield. Pull this whole cover off, being careful about washer tubing or anything like that which can catch. The filter should then be visible. Make sure you put in the replacement right side up. It should have an airflow arrow on it.

The 3.5 has coil packs over the spark plugs (called a COP - coil over plug). When I changed my plugs a while back, I visually inspected the coil packs for cracks, and tested the coil resistance. If I remember correctly, they measured a few ohms (can't remember how many, something like 10 ohms), and all were identicle, so I assumed they were OK. If a coil is open, it would measure high resistance. It is unlikely a coil will completely short out, but I'd suspect a coil that reads much different from the others using a DC Volt meter.

YES! One is under the hood behind the battery with a red cap covering the connection from the positive battery terminal. The other is on the passenger side of the dash. Open the passenger door and pop the cover you can see on the side of the dash. There is a description of this in your owners manual.

Olds trannys are electronic. The pressure control module (PCM) can sometimes go haywire from high temperatures or other reason. If it happens very often, you can get the module replaced. The symptom is a whining sound with hard, jerky shifts, or sometimes no shifting at all. Other problems can cause stumbling hard shifts on occasion. This is caused by the engine controller failing to enter "closed loop" control because a sensor reading is not as expected (bad sensor or some other failed component). There should be a "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light lit when this happens.

Replace the ignition switch. Turn the key to ACC push in and pull out. You will have to remove the radio, dash panel and hazard switch. There are two screws hoding the unit located on the side after removing the dash panel. Then remove the 2 bolts by accessing them through the key hole and hazard swith hole. remover the wiring clips. Repeate process for re-assembling. You do not need a new key switch just the control unit. $155.00 at most for the part. Intrigues have a big problem with the ignition swith because GM feeds everthiing through the switch before going to the ECM. This will also effect you cruse and fule gage level.

on top of the coolant resivoir

hey i have a 1999 oldsmovile intrigue with the same problem neither my driver or passanger side seat work and its a pain cause im 6'4 and the seats half way up. im gunna attepmt to tear the carpet up and find the wire running to it ill let you no how i make out

It's not a misfire, it's torque converter shudder, and sometimes it can be fixed with a fluid change or a chemical additive.