Plymouth Voyager

Assuming you have checked the fuse. Does your cruise control work, if equipped? Is your Airbag light on? If you answer yes to either of these questions then I would suspect the clock-spring inside the steering wheel. Chrysler has a "lifetime" recall on this part regardless of age, miliage, or number of owners. If no you could check the fuse and horn relay (second from vehicle front on right) in the power distribution centre located under the hood. At this age there is also the possibility that the horns' diaphrams have ceased and require replacement. They are located under the front bumper on the drivers side. Power them directly from the battery to test.

easy job, but tedious.

1-empty gas tank 2-loosen bolts on the brackets that hold up the tank (use a jack with a flat piece of wood on top to set the tank on and lower with the jack) 3-the pump is inside the tank disconnect the old and replace with the new.

reverse process

any chilton's guide will give you a more detailed process. But this is basically all you need to do.

Thats simple,due to experience..it's your cv joints,,worn out..but take notice, it can be from regular wear and tear,or due to soft motor mounts,creating undue stress on the inner joints.The motor actually twists to far and creates damage to the inner cv joint.I replaced top(driver's side mount)and the bottom mount.Installed new Cv's,,result is aok. Note:Most say the motor mounts are only good for 4-5 years,before replacement.

I had the exact same problem with my '92 Grand Voyager, a bad shake and wobble in the front end only when accelerating and was especially noticeable around 35-45 mph. I finally found a mechanic who knew exactly what the problem was. My c.v. joints were fine, the problem really was the motor mounts. They were badly worn (182,000 miles) and one of the mounting bolts was actually broken. He explained that the extra play in the motor mounts causes the c.v. joints to "bind-up" under acceleration. I'm no mechanic, but I do know that this fixed the problem. You will probably have to replace all three mounts to remedy the wobble.

If you are laying on your back looking up, then the relay for the radiator cooling fan is located on the chassis just to the left of the fan. It is to the front right of the front tire on the driver's side.

Remove the air filter housing and it is along the side of the "frame"

bufalow

Check the color of the old antifreeze. It is probably red. This would be Hybrid Organic Acid Technology and should not be mixed with other types. 2000- 2001 is around the time that Plymouth changed to this type of coolant so its important to check for the red color.

its from poop in the gas tank. clogging the pump

4.5 quarts

Under the hood on the driver side you will find the transmission dipstick. You add fluid there.

There are 2 when looking inside the engine compartment down beside where you fill the transmission fluid you will see 2 sensors sticking out of the front of the transmission. Hi and LO

I had the same problem with my 96 Grand Voyager. When the transmission has a problem it will lock in first gear as not to leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. There are electronics in the transmission and sensors that have detected a problem. I hate to say this but the transmission has to be rebuilt or changed.

It could be bad brakes or bad wheel bearing.

I just did my '95 Grand Voyager today. The starter is on the front , bottom of the engine almost dead center left and right. If you are real skinny, you could do this job without raising the front end. I am not, so I had to jack the front up about 4" so I could get under it. (Don't forget to set the parking brake, put the van in park, block rear tires and use jack stands in case it tries to shift or fall. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery before starting this job. There are three wires to the starter. Two positive wires are on the left end of the starter facing the front of the van. Remove these two before removing the starter bolts. One is the starter cable (large wire) the other is the solenoid wire (smaller wire). The starter cable is a ring terminal down in a boot on the rear of the starter. I used a 6 point 1/2" socket on it. It is probably a 12mm or 13mm metric nut but I didn't have a metric socket. The solenoid wire terminal is in a plastic housing that snaps into the starter terminal just beside the starter cable. The locking tab for the plastic housing plug can be released by pushing up on the locking tab with a small screw driver and pulling on the plastic housing with a pair of long needle nosw pliers. (I don't recommend pulling on the wire that snaps into the plastic plug) The Third wire is a ground wire that was under one of the starter bolts. I almost missed this when I put the starter back in. There are two bolts holding the starter. They are 15mm. You get to them from the right side (facing the front of the van) The bottom one is just below and in front of one of the trans. huosing bolts. you can get to this bolt from the top of the engine. To remove the bottom one you will need preferably a 15 mm socket and about a 6"-8" extension. (I used a 5/8" 6 point socket as I didn't have a 15mm socket). This bolt is in a tough location because of cables and hoses. Just takes patience to thread the extension through all of the hoses and cables to get it straight on the bolt. Make sure where the ground wire is when removing these bolts so you will know where to put it back. I am not sure which it was under as I didn't notice it when I took out the bolts. The second starter bolt is higher and more to the front. It is in a tighter location than the other as far as getting your fingers in there to take it out. You will probably need to get to this one from under the van. I used a 15mm box wrench. It took a lot of moving the wrench but was not bad. Again there is a wiring harness that runs right across the opening to get into the bolt that makes it hard to reach and turn. When you get the starter bolts out, the starter comes out toward the left side (facing the front of the van). This was the simplest part of the whole job. Check and clean the starter cable and solenoid wire terminals before installing the new starter. This will make sure the new starter has good electrical connections and there is no excessive voltage drop due to corrosion or dirt. The starter goes back in the reverse of the way it came out. There is a metal plate between the starter and the engine. Make sure this is in place and aligned properly when puting the starter back in. ( I knocked it out several times bumping it with the starter. Some good masking tape will help hold it until the starter is seated, then pull the tape loose. With the right tools, this can be done easily in 1-1/2 to 2 hours. It takes a lot of patience as the starter bolts are hard to get at to take out and to put back in. I hope this information helps someone. It took me a while just to find where the starter was located.

This code indicates a problem with the vehicle speed sensor. Check the wiring and if it is good replace the vehicle speed sensor.

On my 1990 Voyager, the transmission has a "safe," or "limp" mode. If something is wrong with the trans, it will not shift out of second gear. This is supposedly to allow you to drive to the repair shop at a reduced speed.

The fuse box is not located under the hood, its located right under the steering wheel, there is a panel that just pops off to access the fuses.

There is a small plug on the inside panel, remove it and there is a release lever inside the door.

Directly above/behind the top of the oil filter.

The water pump is located behind the water pump pulley. The water pump pulley is the smooth pulley at the top closest to the front of the car. It is held in place by 4 bolts with 8mm heads. The pump is held in place with 5 bolts. Warm the engine to operating temperature before removing the bolts or they may break off causing you greif.

Trouble code P1391 means: Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP

The engine computer is next to the battery. The transmission computer is under the hood on the pass side. The body computer is under the dash on the driver side. The airbag computer is under the center of the dash. The HVAC computer is the ac control head. The ABS computer is above the transmission case.

The engine computer is next to the battery. The transmission computer is under the hood on the pass side. The body computer is under the dash on the driver side. The airbag computer is under the center of the dash. The HVAC computer is the ac control head. The ABS computer is above the transmission case.

The 2002 Chrysler Town & Country Van takes 28" replacement windshield wiper blades on both sides front and an 18" rear wiper blade. See sources and related links below for more informaton.

The Body Control Module for a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager should just pull out, but in some models it has been screwed in so you may need a Phillips screwdriver to loosen it.

Probably because the cooling fan relay is dead. I had the same problem, removed the fuse and put it back on. The fan then stopped. Thought it was fine, that the relay got "sticky" or "reset". 2 days later, I stopped my car and waited for a friend with engine running. Shortly after, water was boiling: the cooling fan relay is likely to be dead and will change it today.

The first model year of the 3rd generation Voyager and Caravan (1996) was cursed with the AC Front Blower relay positioned way under the dash up on the interior firewall behind the junction box and Body Control Module on the driver side. Chrysler refers to this as the AC Relay in the manual. This relay placement made the job of replacing the blower relay very labour intensive. There are 4 problems with the HVAC that came up on a regular basis with this model year and later model years of the 3rd Generation Chrysler Minvan/Wagon. 1997 and on finds the front blower relay in the "Power Distribution Center" next to the battery and is easily servicable as is the fuse. If your front blower only works on one or two speeds it is likely that the Blower resistor module is faulty (burnt) On the 96 and most 3rd gen later models it is located high on the passenger side firewall in the engine compartment. Right adjacent to the right front strut housing. If your blower is intermittent but all the blower speeds work when it does come on it is likely the relay is the problem. Very often because of the high current present on these circuits there will be a combination of problems that are heat related. Burnt or melted connectors at the resistor block are very common on higher mileage minivans. If the blower doesn't work at all it could be the 40 amp fuse, the relay fused open, the burnt resistor module and/or a faulty blower motor. The system may exhibit any one or combination of these faults. If you disconnect the blower connector from the blower behind the glove compartment you can check for 12 volts at the blower power harness. Turn on the ignition and check to see if there is voltage (12 volts) at the blower power harness. If you have your 12 volts there it is likely the motor is compromised. Good luck with your repairs.