Pontiac Trans Am

When driving a standard transmission, stick shift, clutch sort of car one must drive differently than in an automatic. When you need to slow down it is better to downshift and coast rather than leaving the car in gear and braking because eventually you'll need to downshift anyway. You should plan ahead and know when you'll need to stop. If you place the car in neutral before stopping the brakes will be the only things stopping the car. This will wear out your brakes much quicker than necessary. It is better to downshift, and once in a low gear depress the clutch and the brake together in order to come to a complete stop. Once at a complete stop, and as long as you're not on an incline, put the car in neutral, let off the clutch and keep your foot on the brake. When traffic is about to move, depress the clutch, put it in gear, let off the brake and press on the gas in order to begin again. If you are stopped on an incline, sort of going up hill, and in a good amount of traffic with cars behind you and ahead of you; when you come to a stop it is better to leave the car in its lowest gear, maintain an equilibrium with the clutch and your gas pedal to keep the car at a stand still. This will prevent you from rolling backwards once you begin again. If you need to start from a stand still, on an incline, in neutral the possibility of rolling backwards or stalling is very great. This is an instance where the parking brake, the clutch and being in gear all have to work in concert. You apply the parking break, which is always a hand break on standard transmission cars, to prevent yourself from rolling backwards. Keep your thumb depressed on the button that locks the hand brake so you have an easy free moving control of the brake. You then put the car in its lowest gear, apply the clutch until you feel the transmission engage. Slowly let out on the clutch until you feel the car trying to move forward and then gradually let off the parking brake. This will prevent you from rolling backwards and possibly stalling the car while starting on an incline. Starting a stick shift, clutch, standard transmission car from a dead stop on a significant incline is not an easy task for a beginner. Practice it.

To do it correctly you have to cut out your tail panel and put the '77-'78 tail panel in. As you've probably found out, the bolt patterns and depth of the bolts are different between the two years.

Reach underneath to get behind it. You then unplug the light (and holder) to reveal lamp. Similiar to the new halogen headlights where you replace just the bulb instead of the entire casing. It's really a pain to reach it. BE CAREFUL to not touch the glass part of the new bulb. Most are halogen and will burn out prematurely if grease or even oil from your fingers are left on it.

20 - 30 mpgs depends if you drive on highway or cities

You unscrew the bolts.

Thermostat is the whole water outlet on the waterpump.

339 Convertible WS6 Trans Ams were made in 1998. All WS6's have ram air.

The V8 was a 5.7L LT1 that produced 275 hp and 325 lb-ft torque.

You don't. Instead, you replace the entire assembly.

First, an inverted Torx socket is needed. It is necessary to remove the steering wheel, locking plate, turn signal switch, and upper tilt mechanism to get to the bolts. Once all components are removed, the socket (needs to be

You may have a dead battery. You can try to jump start it. If that doesn't work, check your cables and connections. Check the ground cable too. Still nothing, the starter is probably bad.

5.0 - 205 hp, 5.7 - 215 hp.

printable diagram for firing order for 1980 trans am turbo 301 4.9 engine

go to transamworld.com there is info on there.

It is a tough job that is for sure! Take a look over at Smokinvette.com and get a full diagram of how exactly to do it! Good luck!

try replacing mass air sensor

Inside the front passenger side wheel well (with a flashlight, you can see it through the fender vent). You have to remove the fender to get access.

Trans Ams were made from 1969-2002

Fist of all I would like to state: BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING ON A RUNNING ENGINE! HOT OR MOVING PARTS SUCH AS THE FAN, BELTS, ETC CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY, BURNS OR DEATH! Find the tdc (top dead center) line on the harmonic balancer or "crank hub". Mark it with white paint or chalk (this will make it easier to see). Find out the inital timing required for your engine. Mark the timing tab (pass side front of the engine near crank hub) at the specified number(for example 6 deg before tdc) with white paint or chalk. Loosen distributor hold down bolt. Disconnect and plug vaccum line to the distributor. Hook up timing light to #1 or #6 spark plug wire (It does not matter which, AS LONG AS IT IS #1 or #6 NOT ANY OTHER PLUG WIRE) run engine at idle point timing light at timing marks. Turn distributor until white marks line up. Remember to reconnect the vaccum line and retitghten distributor hold down after setting the inital timing.

If your truck is like mine, the ICM is on the left fender about eight to twelve inches below the left hood spring. It will be a black device mounted in the center of an aluminum heat sink, with cooling ribs on each side of it.

if it doesn't even crank over, I'd check for a burnt out fuseable link down by the starter. if it cranks, but won't start, I'd define the question as to what kind of smoke. coolant or electrical. a coolant puff might mean blown head gasket, and electrical smoke could be many different things.

First, set aside between 5 and 7 hours depending on your mechanical ability and tool selection. Unhook the battery terminals. Loosen the idler, remove the belt. Remove the top radiator support plastic shroud and remove the metal structure underneath. Remove the cooling fan. Loosen the radiator and condenser if a/c equipped. Remove the O2 sensor. You can finally get to the alternator and see that you'll have to slide it out from the front of the engine. Remove the alternator, careful not drop it or brush against the radiator. Reinstall new one as removed. Follow mfgrs directions on alternator hookup so as not to void warranty. (you do NOT want to do this again if it fails) Roadtest the car and celebrate saving $300 in dealership labor costs.

And make sure your buy the right belt, due to smaller pully in alternator, you will need a different belt, which wasn't in stock in my local kragen, so I need to wait couple days, in my time only weekend available, that mean I have to wait another weekend. To remove the bolt for the alternator is very difficult and has to be very carefully not to scratch the body at the side, to install the original length bolt is even more difficult, so find something to cut the bolt about 1/2" will save you several hours to insert it.

No, Pontiac stopped 455 production in 1976. They are easy to swap in though.

My trans am gt 1994 with a 5.7 recomends premium fuel. ive ran the car with both regular and premium . It runs fine with regular but you can definetly feel the difference. it just runs stronger with premium and is probably better for the injectors