Toyota Celica

My Celica is doing that as well. my uncle knows a thing or two about cars said it could be a Catalytic converter problem...

no it has a timing belt. it's not that hard to replaced

The standard door speakers in the UK model 1993-1999 Toyota Celica (Gen 6) ST, SR, GT and GT-Four are 6.5" (16.5cm) co-axial speakers inside an eight inch space. After years of use, moisture and the doors being slammed the speakers may be ready for an new set or upgrade.

The speakers are held in by spacers. These can be removed to allow fitting of 8" (20cm) speakers if you are up to the job.

The entire inner door card/trim will need to be removed - using a Philips screwdriver and undoing various clips (gently).

If in doubt have a qualified audio installer or Toyota dealer fit new speakers.

6.5" (16.5cm) speakers are readily available at audio retailers, 8" (20cm) less common but available.

Standard speakers are paper cones so when buying new speakers ensure you get the more modern rubber cones with 2-way or 3-way co-axial speakers.

Note: The rear speakers are the same size but access usually requires removal of entire rear seat and interior trim unless you can reach down the sides but you risk damaging the interior.

depending on if you have a trunk or hatch model this can vary a little bit.

when you pop the hatch there will be a little cap over a screw on the top of the taillight that can be taken off.Unscrew the screw underneath.the furthest out lense of the taillight (usually red) will have to be pop'd off also, put a flathead screw driver in between the lense and the rest of the taillight lense. pry it but becareful, this tends to break easily.there should be 2 screws there that need to be taken out, after they are out, apply a little pressure to the taillight to pop it out of the brackets that are holding it in.hope that helps.

my celica had 8" subwoofers in the front and standard 6" speakers in the back. I had a 1995

Phillips screwdriver...two screws throught the lens. Remove the lens and extract the lamp. It pulls out.

The 1991 Toyota Celica STX features a 1.6 liter inline 4-cylinder engine. It is also equipped with a front wheel drive drivetrain and 5 speed manual transmission. In its max condition the 1991 Toyota Celica STX offers 103 horsepower at 6000 RPM. It has been known to get an average of 24 miles to the gallon on its fuel rating during city driving and 30 miles to the gallon on the highway.

Replacement is fairly easy but I recommend having a friend handy instead of propping up the hatch as it is fairly heavy without the lift supports. The most recommended aftermarket lift supports can be found at www.liftsupportsdepot.com and are around $59 plus shipped for both.

you will need a 12mm wrench to take off the original ball joints from the hatch and you can use a socket with a 3", or so, extension for the two bolts holding the lift support, or strut, to the car. Many people recommend getting a heat gun and heating up the ball joint bolt as well as the metal around it, assuming the metal on the hatch expands faster than the bolt, so that the lock tite around the threads breaks loose.

After you have the original ones out put the new bolt/ball joint in on one side and attach the new lift support with retaining clip. The bolt for the new ball joint is 13mm rather than 12mm, not sure why, but something to note in case you don't have a full set of metric wrenches. It shouldn't matter which bolt you put back in at the bottom on this side, but I recommend putting in the bolt closest to the body of the lift support as this one can be tough to put in after the exterior bolt is put in. Repeat on the other side and you are done, I did notice that putting the inside bolt on the other side was a little more difficult, so I definitely recommend starting with that bolt at the bottom of the other lift support.

For installation tips click on this link http://autopartsbylou.com/lift-supports-faq.php

Either you have a bad lock cylinder in which case you can spend about 20 dollars for a replacement, or the ignition lock is triggered.

WAIT!!

ANOTHER ANSWER:: It could also be that you simply have your steering wheel turned and locked into place to the point where it is binding pressure on the lock and not allowing you to turn the key. If that is the case, you will feel that the wheel has a tiny bit of turning ability going one direction, and zero turning ability going the other. Try pushing it as far as it will go toward the soft "tiny bit" direction and hold it there.. then turn the key.

If that doesn't work.. then the first poster probably had the right answer. . :-)

They have 6.5" speakers.

I have an 88 celica and my top motor takes power steering fluid

The vvtl and vvtli motors are chain driven. Chains are superior to belts in many ways including wear. I've heard of a lot of 7th gen celicas hitting the 200k mark with only changing the air filter and oil. I would say do it at 150k just to be on the safe side, Do the water pump while your in there. That way you know your good until at least 300k. At least on that portion of your motor.

All "S" series motors are physically swappable.

I have a 92 Celica, it uses R12.

Why yes! You can reach into the trunk (if it's in the trunk as usual) and unplug the antenna cable (pull it off) it may take a little tugging. It is the cable that plugs onto the side of the motor pack. Then unbolt the hanger strap nut (a 10 mm nut). Push the threaded part back out of the hole to release the assembly from the frame. Next take a pair of needle nose pliers and wrap your hand around the pointed ends of the pliers to hold them in the notches of the antenna hold down ring on outside of car. There is a special tool (SST) for this, but I have never seen one. You must do this VERY CAREFULLY or risk slipping out of the notches and scratching the crap out of your paint! I have found using one hand to squeeze the plier ends allows control of where it goes. Once the ring is loosened, remove it by unscrewing it from the assembly by hand. You should be able to pull the plastic part off and the rubber body seal gasket. Unplug the electronics by pushing in the white plastic tab on connector and pull it apart. Push hard on tab and once again, wiggle/pull to separate connector. You will likely have drain hoses to remove from the unit and push onto new unit. You should be able to buy a fixed antenna mast with a plug in for the antenna lead from Toyota or an aftermarket store. and simple attach it like the old one minus electronics connector. On the older ST models, there was no motorized antenna. QUESTION: Why not replace antenna as is? Cost? -If mast is damaged, (bent over) you can (VERY CAREFULLY)cut the mast off around the lowest point with a small hacksaw or Dremel tool with a reinforced carbide disk, BEING CAREFUL to cut only through the surface of metal, as the antenna extend/retract cable is on the inside of the tube. (There is a retainer that is pushed down in the assembly to keep the antenna from pushing out of the hole. Remove this with your pliers by using just enough pressure to grab it and pull it out.) Once the mast is cut off, you can get to the end nuts of the mast and lead and using two needle nose pliers (they are tiny nuts) unscrew them. Then all you need is a new mast to screw on to the lead end, and you have someone turn on and back off on the radio to make the motor pull the lead in while you help guide it by hand. I do this by myself, but you must be quick. Then, just push the retaining piece back into the hole and screw in the retainer ring and tighten with pliers carefully. The last time I priced the mast it came separate for about $27. Yours may come with the lead attached and the winding "bell" and be higher. If the lead is broken, you will hear the motor trying do it's job...with no joy. You have to replace the lead. But that is good. At least it is fixable. That requires opening up the antenna unit cover to install the new lead which is attached to the "bell (which is attached with four screws to the inner gear hub). YOU MUST KNOW that the antenna is "EXTENDED" if you do this!!!! Turn radio on before beginning work, listen for motor to cycle, then PULL APART ELECTRONICS CONNECTOR! That way, when the car is turned off, the radio doesn't tell the motor to retract the antenna again. IF YOU FAIL TO DO THIS, OR TRY TO WIND THE LEAD INTO THE BELL WHEN REPLACING IT, YOU WILL SHEAR THE GEARS (plastic parts) AND WILL HAVE TO BUY A NEW UNIT! No parts available. The reason? The lead will either be fully extended and the motor will try to keep extending it, jamming the gears....or if you wind the lead up when assembled, the motor will try to retract...and jam the gears because you already rewound the lead. The motor is powerful enough to rip the gears apart and will! I know this sounds complicated, but go slow and have a well-lit table indoors to take apart the assembly. Carefully note what position every part and nut is in when you open up the unit. ALL PARTS MUST REMAIN IN EXACT position! When you undo the four screws to remove the "bell" hold down the plastic center part while removing the "bell" so it stays engaged with the other gears. Also look to see the marks on the hub and where the "bell" fits on it. You will notice there are crimped spots where the lead attaches. Where are they when the original bell is attached to the hub? Remember this! If you look hard at everything, you can do this, but take it slow and study it! I broke a few until I learned how to do this. The Toyota dealer could repair it too. But check the cost, because a new unit may not be much higher and you can bolt it in yourself. -Or go to a junkyard and get a good unit for 1/3 the price and do the same. Hope this helps!

There's no reason it shouldn't. The bodies are the same for every model from the doors forward. The convertibles are made by shipping the completed hard-top vehicle from Japan to California to ASC (American Specialty Cars) where the top is sawn off and the frame and doors are reinforced by welding on steel plates. This "stiffens" the body to make up for removing the top. Although it adds a bit of weight to the car, it (almost) keeps the body from twisting between the front and back (lateral support). Very few convertibles in the world start out as convertibles. The number of units sold would not justify the costs of designing and setting up separate assembly lines for a large manufacturer. Be sure to keep your rubber seals around windshield and on the top protected with a treatment like Meguir's spray to prolong life. It is VERY expensive and sometimes impossible to replace these after a short time because they don't produce many replacements. I found that my '89 GT was seal was unavailable. They said IF it could be found, it would be about $1,000. Luckily, I discovered you can use Permatex's "Good Stuff" gasket foam to patch and repair the seal. It is almost unnoticable when blended. (Use wet finger to shape). The only difference I have been able to find is that one part number came WITH MOULDING and the other w/out. Strange is that they are priced exactly the same! I am a bit fuzzy on the exact look of the '95 as I haven't seen one in a few years. The only hitch I can think of is if there is an integration to the convertible moulding where the would join after modification. I know that the convertibles were usually sporting different wheel rims than the standard GT. (The early '90's had round openings on their rims for the convertible only). Two possibilties to decide: If the moulding is different: one could come WITH the specialized mould. OR They left the mould OFF so the special moulding could be transferred (re-used)by using the double sided moulding mounting tape at the body shop. I know that the belt moulding on the late eighties models can stretch when removed and be a bi*ch to apply straight again without showing waves. Luckily on those, the belts are shorter in length than the door pieces, so there is less distance for them to "swerve". Even on the late eighties model they show different part numbers, btw, and looking from my convert to my coupe there weren't any interal differences, using a flashlight.

Try to use Toyota speaker adapter plugs so you don't need to cut wires and mess the electric system up. You can get them from Ebay or Amazon.

Unlatch little clips on airbox. (4). Lift lid, take out filter. Put new filter in. Put lid down. Latch little clips.

, please help me . and answer this Question what grade oil should i ues in my 1990 Toyota manual transmisssion 5 speed box.

any trans fluid .. ATF .. per book

take the old one off first then put the new one on in the reverse of the old.

You need to move the overflow radiator jug out of the way, just pull up, then take off the cap of cruise control - if you have one. There are two bolts that need to be removed... the one at the top is a 14MM nut and undo that one. The other one is a 12MM bolt on the bottom and you need a flexible wrench to get at it. The exhaust probe is in the way and you will destroy it if you are not careful Last nut to losen is the tension nut below the belt. Losen this bolt a lot.

Once the two bolts are undone, use a rubber mallot and gently knock the alternator down. It will come out. Take the new alternator and slide it in. You can twist it around the belt and down or perhaps pull the belt on after... but its tight... actually a good idea to buy a new belt.

Then put in the 14MM bolt in, but don't tighten it. Put the 12MM bolt in, remember how it goes, from the exhaust probe to the cruise control. Tighten the 12MM bolt. tighten the 14MM bolt. Tighten the 10 MM tension back to where it was..... and... it should be fine.

HTH

Turn on headlights. Click switch back a notch to deactivate headlight, but leaving them up. Remove the two screws on each side (4 total) holding black plastic trim bezel. You will have to tilt it forward from the top to remove it from around the light assembly. CAREFULLY unscrew the three SMALL screws of aluminum headlight hold down ring. (holds edges of lamp)... NOT the two headlamp adjustment screws (one on top/one on side...spring loaded) that tilt the lamp up /down left/right. If you drop the trim ring screws you may need a mechanic's telescoping mirror/magnet to pick the screws up from underneath... When fram is off, you can lift the headlamp from it's home and grasp the plug (not the wires) and wiggle/pull it off of prongs attached to lamp. Once lamp is off, replace it by reversing these directions. It's best to replace both lamps at the same time. Same brightness instead of "one eye" effect and the other will probably go soon anyway. cheers!

Tires need to be balanced

Duct Tape

Go to a Toyota dealer and purchase the mechanics/technical maintenance manual. It is what the dealers and repair shops use to service your car. It will pay for itself with just one use. It is also nice to read up on a repair the dealer needs to do on your car, just to make sure they don't try and rip you off.