Toyota Cressida

Your 2004 Toyota Corolla transmission holds seven quarts of transmission fluid. You can check the transmission fluid level with the transmission fluid dipstick.

It is 8-10 degree before top dead center with engine warmed to operating temp., RPM's at the proper range and the check engine connector jumped at TE1 and E1.

The cold start injecter is located in the middle of the intake manifold with the brake master cly. right in the way

Which lights? Instrument panel? Dash? Overhead? Ash Tray? Glove box? Also, which model of Corolla?

i believe it is in a fuse box right next to your battery. the top of the box shows the part of the car the fuses go to.

The factory subwoofer is actually a 9 1/2" Free air subwoofer. Aftermarket would be a 10". the mounting space available is 11 1/2" inches. So when you buy one aftermarket make sure you have enough room.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJnxY7kM18Q

Is on the engine block on the upper water hose.

u gotta start by either soildering or somehow puting the two wires hanging off the miorror to the car....this is for the defroseter. after...get a rag and fild it up and push against the miorror in the center and add preasure...MAKE SURE THE 5 PRONGS BEHINDE THE MIORROR ARE ALL LINED UP TO EACHOTHER OR ELSE IT WONT BE ABLE TO ROTATE AROUND AND BE ADJUSTED FROM THE INSIDE (thats the hardest part).....i did this to my 2000 tl on the driver side... it's kinda shaky on the freeway....but its on there good.. hopefully this helps Raz

"http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Compare_and_contrast_the_representation_of_love_in_Shakespeare%27s_Troilus_and_Cressida_and_Chaucer%27s_The_Book_of_Duchess"

find the 19mm bolt on the side connected to the tension pulley. either a braeker bar or long wrench can do it. pull toward the fromt of the car (may take some effort) hold firm and remove tha belt quick. you need to remember the pattern of the belt (draw one)and make sure it fits the right way. no rubbing on the sides and fits into the grooves. after the new belt s on, run car and monitor the belt. easy money.

your in luck i just did one

the starter is located at the rear of the engine

diss connect the pos side of the battery

jack up the car and use jack stands for safety

with a light of flash light look up behind the motor from under the car

you will need a wrench size #12 metric for wire the other wire is just a

clip on

you will need a #14 wrench or socket for the bottom starter bolt

from the top of the engine drivers side look down to the starter bolt

you will need a # 14 wrenck to loosen and a socket #14 with a long extension

move wire harness out of you way just a little so you can get the socket on it have somone help you with this have your helper hold the starter from the bottom while you take out the bolt

when the starter is loose it will come out of that mess if you move to the right and pull the plastic guard to the side a little

reverse these steps to reinstall be careful !!

some times turning the ignition switch on and off several times without starting the engine will clear this code. if not you may have to have the ECM flashed. dealer preferred task.

From Owners Manual - Press and hold the ODOMETER RESET then start the car. This will reset the light for about 5000 miles then it will start again. It is a reminder to change your oil.

Pop open the hood. Behind the headlight will be the bulb (the bulb looks like an "L" shape, with top of the "L" inside the headlight) connected to a wire plug. Now rotate the bulb out of the socket. Disconnect the wire plug from the bulb. Reattach a new bulb to the wire plug (DON'T TOUCH THE BULB GLASS WITH YOUR OILY FINGERS!), and rotate it inside the socket in the back of headlight. No tools are neccessary.

There are<a href="http://www.dubaiposter.com"> some</a> instructions out there that tell you to remove the whole headlight assembly, but you do not need to.

Your best bet is to take a tennis ball or rubber raquet ball and throw it at one of the windows. It wont damage the car, but the vibration should set off the alarm.

This job is best done by a qualified mechanic. I just changed out the chunk on my differential and it cost $250.00 labor plus $350.00 for a used chunk from a salvage yard.

This could also be caused by a clogged PCV system which is common on these cars especially the 7mge. Pull the oil fill cap with the engine running. If you have a lot of pressure comming out you probably have what is called "blowby". If you have much blowby it will push oil out of anyplace that doesn't have a positive seal, that could include the distributor shaft. If you have that much blowby, the rings are worn and the only option is to rebuild or replace the engnine.

I need to repair the gear shift cable in side a 2000 toyota corolla. How do you get in side the gear shift box to repair the cable end?

Code 14 means "no IGF signal to the ECM for 4 consecutive IGT signals" which means there is a communication problem between the ECM and distributor...

No, its fuel injected engine

I had this problem with my ford escort wagon, i needed to bring it in to have it replaced. If i remember correctly there are springs and magnets inside that get wore out, and tend to make it skip, or hum. This could also lead to what i call Speedometer Slip, which is when the speedometer drifts up and down, not giving an accurate reading. e.g. I would be doing roughly 30mph, and it would say i was doing 70mph, and it would constantly change. I would look at prices to get a replacement cluster, if this is out of your price range, maybe you can google some local repair shops, or junkyards that could potentially have some spares laying around. -Eddie

This is the service manual for 2004 model, but the center console should be the same. Had this problem for a long time, and this finally helped me to remove it. Finding the parts for it is another story though...

http://www.users.on.net/~bmrogers/2004.zip

1. loosen lugnuts on wheel

2. jack car up.

3. loosen lugnuts the rest of the way and remove the wheel

4. remove two screws from brake caliper (they're located on the inside of the caliper, pointing toward the center of the car)

5. remove caliper (don't disconnect brake line). Use a wire to hang it from the strut or rest it on the strut. Do not let it hang by the brake line.

5. The brake pads are now exposed. Remove (gently!) and watch for the little metal pieces they're attached to. Don't lose them if they come off the car. You'll need them.

Your brake pads are now out. Compare the thickness of the old one to the new one. The old one is much thinner. Because of this, the piston which pushes the pads onto the rotors has to extend further out of the caliper.

6. Use a clamp to force the piston back into the caliper or else the new pads won't fit. I use a piece of wood between clamp and piston to even out the force and to protect the piston from damage. You might want to use something softer. YMMV.

7. Insert new brake pads, remembering to put back any metal clips that fell out during step 4.

8. Put caliper back on over brake pads. If it doesn't fit, you need to re-clamp the piston further into the caliper. See step 5.

9. Screw the two screws back into the caliper.

10. Replace wheel.

11. Replace lugnuts. Tighten as much as you can. Hold the wheel still.

12. Lower car from jack.

13. Tighten lugnuts more.

14. Relax, congratulate yourself, and have a beer.

I'd also check the coil.