Volvo 240

Near the bottom of the radiator on every car there is a small plug, sometimes it has a screw or bolt head. It faces the rear of the car.

Remove it and then let the fluid drain into a pan. Once the coolant has finished draining, plug the drain hole on the rad then fill the system up with water using the cap on the top of the radiator.

Run the engine for 10 minutes, then shut it off and let it cool down for 20 minutes. Once cool, remove the plug from the bottom of the rad again and let all the water drain out. Once empty, replace the plug again.

Fill the system with your new coolant, run the engine for 10 minutes, then let it cool. Once cool, top up the coolant again.

Now you're done.

If the wires have been pulled off the 2 x red/black go to pin 15 on the switch. Red goes to 30 (pos. from battery). Blue goes to 50 (starter motor). Yellow to X. White/red to S. and blue/yellow to the un-named contact.

Check the website for IPD. There are many positive reviews for their odometer repair kit.

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Interior/Odometer-Repair-Kit/p-69-262-4566/


Juan

Depends on which type of vehicle you purchase. Webasto sunroofs will be marked up according to the auto-manufacturer. The HIGHEST suggested retail mark up I have seen for the OSR panoramic sunroof was $3000. Webasto does not set the price or margin of mark up. Suggested retail price is set to the auto- manufacturer. Go to your dealer and check the window sticker for the exact price you will pay.

There might be some electrical component that is slowly draining the battery. Here is a simple way to narrow it down. This is best done at night. Remove the positive battery cable from the battery (with everything turned off, even the dome light). Gently touch the battery cable to the battery terminal. If there is anything draining current you will see a little spark. To narrow down the source, repeat this test after removing one fuse at a time. When the spark stops, note the number of the fuse removed, and which accessories are fed by this fuse. While you have the terminal off, it's a good idea to clean both the battery terminals and cable ends with a wire brush. If you do not have a slow drain on the battery, here are some other possible causes: your alternator is not charging the battery, often the problem is the voltage regulator (mounted to the back of the alternator). The voltage regulator is a good place to start as it costs only $20, an alternator is closer to $200. More likely, if you still have the original battery, it is 7 years old which is about max life on a car battery. If this morning starting problem has been getting worse slowly over time, it is most likely the battery. They are at their weakest in the morning when the battery and motor are both cold, so the battery has less power, and a cold motor is much harder to crank over than a warm motor.

Front of engine compartment inside the air box.

1 - 3 - 4 - 2

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The best I've gotten was 29mpg on a road trip in overdrive. It was just after I had it serviced and I also drive a 1982, but I drive a wagon. So, if you happen to have a sedan you may/should be able to get more.

Pat

A dirty air filter will cause your automobile to not properly accelerate. A dirty fuel filter will also cause your automobile to not properly accelerate.

One can find a wiring diagram for a Volvo 245 at Turbo Bricks. These can also be found at Volvo Club and at Volvo Tips.

Battery Group is 47

http://www.davebarton.com/240tachinstall/

Flush the trans,replace filter perhaps, valve body needs reworking.

The 1991 Volvo brake light relay switch is located beneath the drivers side dashboard. The brake light relay switch will be above the brake pedal.

For the Volvo 240 GL 1992 US/Canada, the fuse diagram from the owner's manual page 93 states: {starting at the top and working down} # Cigarette lighter, Power mirrors, Radio, Tailgate wiper/washer: 8A # Windshield wiper/washer, Horn: 16A # Heater blower: 25A # Fuel feed [in-tank] pump, Lambda-sond heating element: 8A # Turn signals, Tail lights, Heated mirrors: 16A # Main fuel pump relay, Lambda-sond, fuel injection system: 16A # Brake lights, Shiftlock, ABS: 8A # Central locking, Interior and glove compartment lights, Trunk compartment lights, Radio, Power antenna, Clock, Daytime running lights (Canada): 8A # Hazard warning flashers: 8A # Power windows: 16A # Heated rear window, 4th gear (automatic transmission): 16A # Air conditioning (with blower control), Power windows (relay), Heated rear window (relay), Seat belt reminder, Cruise control, Shiftlock: 8A # Heated front seats, Daytime running lights - relay (Canada): 16A # Rear fog lights: 8A # Parking lights (left side), License plate light: 8A # Parking lights (right side), Instruments and control panel lights, Shift indicator light: 8A ABS: this system is protected by a separate 10A fuse located under the front seat on the passenger's side.

on top of bellhousing, behind head, pass-side

First remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the cover on behind the steering wheel. Lift the cover and pull it towards the steering wheel. It should just slide out of the two slots that hold the back in. Now remove the two square blanks directly to the right of the cluster, they will just snap out when you depress the tabs located on the sides. There will be two Phillips head screws holding that side onto the dash. On the left side remove the headlight twist knob and the dash light dimmer knob, these will just pull off. Now pop off the cover plate and you will see two more phillip head screws next to the cluster that holds it to the dash. Now you can push the left side of the cluster into the dash hole and reach around to the bulb holders or you can un-plug the wires and competly remove the instrument cluster. Just make sure you note which wires go where. Good luck.

pretty straightforward, disconnect negative battery cable, remove and label wiring from starter, remove bolts from that connect starter to the transmission housing. Replace with new starter, attach mounting bolts, reconnect wiring, and negative battery cable, and ur good to go.

1. a bad ground wire, or 2. a short in the brake electrical system let me know if it helps?

Look around the intake manifold. It probably won't be around the other injectors. It will have a fuel line going to it as well as an electrical connector. The fuel line going to it will connect to the fuel rail. So you could trace the extra fuel line on the rail to the injector.

They are either the wrong bulbs or one of the filaments is burned out. The bulbs should have two filaments. One is illuminated when the lights are on. The other is brighter when the brakes are used.

it is not a good idea. the alternator is selected to meet the needs of the electrical system. Check to see what the maxium amp load is. It may cause a fault light to show up. the computers are set up for specific amps. Check to see if similar Volvo models of the year use a 70 amp alternator. hope it helps. duboff

Rolfo says: I have done this with acceptable results, although I will agree that it is not recommended. If you must use a different amperage go for more amps, not less.