VW New Beetle

in the left front corner of the engine compartment under a black plastic battery cover

Open the hood, at the far back of the front trunk is a black plastic panel held in place by two knurled thumbscrews at the bottom. Remove these thumbscrews and pull the panel out, angling it out at the bottom first.

This exposes the back of the dashboard and all the dash wiring. The fuse panel is attached to the floor of this recess just slightly to the right fo center (looking at it from the front of the vehicle).

there

The first time I looked it had me thinking as well???

I phone my mate at the local VW workshop I visit them to do wheel alignment, so I know the right guy to ask.

He said look harder??

1st open rear doors, 2nd plastic cover vertical panel that's under the rubber cable tube REMOVE use flat blade screwdriver under top edge, you may think we're going to brake it! hidden under this panel is 2 screws remove the screws then push lamp unit to the out side of van its held in 2 ball sockets, un-clip wiring connector bulb holder is held in by acouple of no.7??? torx bit screws and after all that its the top bulb.

Easy? and just think on this? in main land Europe you've got to carry spare bulbs but what use is that if you need to find a VW garage to change the b----- bulb,

I hope this is of some help Cheers for now have a good Christmas 2008 MJM

.024...... seems tight, but that is what it is. .028 if it was Fuel injected, 1969? Isn't fuel Injected...so .024.

They weren't available to the public in 1940, because Germany was at war then and all German industrial production was dedicated to the war effort.

It depends on which engine your sebring has. The sebring coupes have a Mitsibishi engine that is different than the convertables and sedans. Be careful of loosening any fuel lines that may be under pressure. The pressure is enough to inject fuel through your skin. Loosen fuel cap,pull relay for fuel pump, start motor and run till it runs out out of fuel, replace fuel cap,relay, and then disconnect negative terminal on battery before anything is disasimbled for your own safety. Public libraries are alot easier to get the info. from for the do-it-yourselfers than alot of high payed mechanics. Even if you pay to have repairs done, it's nice to know what is being done to your car.

if u want I can send u any electrical diagram on a f250 &/or I can tell u where to get any schematics

Laurie

1999 F250 service manual. Try Ford.

Remove all interior moldings that touch the headliner, the sunvisors and dome lamp and pull it down.

In neither the speedometer or odometer work, then the best place to look is the cable. Jack up the left front of the car so that the left front wheel is not touching the ground. Take off the hubcap if it hasn't already fallen off. Take a close look at the 'grease cap'...it is at the very center of the wheel/hub. In the very center of that grease cap is a small cable. That cable drives the speedometer. Inspect the connection where the cable runs through the grease cap. There should be a wire cotter pin running thru the end of the cable to hold it in place. If you don't see anything poking thru the hole in the greas cap, then you probalby found the problem. You will have to try to fish the speedo cable end thru the grease cap hole, and fasten it with a wire cotter pin. Give the wheel a quick spin...as fast as you can. Take a real close look at the center of the grease cap...where the cable attaches. Verify that the cable is rotating with the revolution of the wheel. A common thing to wear out is the grease cap. It has a square hole in the end that the cable fits into. A common scenario is for the square hole to get rounded out, and also for the cable to round out...or even both will wear. This is the easiest thing to check. If the cable is not moving with the wheel...then you found the problem. Replace the grease cap and/or speedo cable. If the cable DOES turn, then have a friend look at the speedo and verify it hasn't started working. The next place to look if you have verified the cable is being 'driven' by the wheel is to look where the cable hooks to the speedo. Leave the front jacked up for now. Pop the hook open, and remove the dash cover...usually a black cover attached by a couple small nuts. You will be able to spot where the speedo is right away. Don't bump any wires or anything while you are mucking around in there. Unhook the speedo cable from the speedo by unscrewing the cable from the speedo. Pull the cable away from the speedo, and have your friend spin the wheel. Verify that the cable is turning. If it isn't turning...and it was turning when you checked the grease cap connection...then that means the cable is broken. You would need to get a new cable in this case. But...if the cable is turning, then we can now deduce be elimination that the speedo internally is hosed up. Don't bother trying to fix it...you would need to replace it. Get a used one from a junk yard. Pay close attention to which wires go where. Take a piece of paper and draw out which color wires run to where. Draw it as you see it looking at the back of the odometer. The speedo is attached by 2 screws or bolts on the sides. Loosten them, but not all the way. Twist the speedo...counter clockwise if I remember correctly, and it will come unlatched. Putting it back in is straight forward. Just reverse the dissasembly process. Finally, be careful when working around a vehicle that is jacked into the air. Don't put any part of your body that you don't want smashed under the vehicle at any time.

Here is how on an 87 Bronco II: Remove Two screws that hold the steering column housing together. Remove two screws that hold the switch in placve (Turn signal is attached to the switch, it is like a half circle disc on the left side) use a screw driver to lift the connector holders (there are two, the top one has connector holders on both sides) remove the electrical connectors. the switch should be free now. Be cautios and dont crack your housing or any of the connector holders. good luck

There were two engines offered that year. 84 Z28 LG4 V8 8.6:1 Comp/Ratio 5.0 L (305) Cu/In 150 h.p @4000 rpm 240 lb/ft @2400 rpm 4bbl carb 84 Z28 L69 V8 9.5:1 Comp/Ratio 5.0 L (305) Cu/In 190 h.p.@4800 rpm 240 lb/ft @3200 rpm 4bbl carb HO

yuo ned a scaner....or the diler a frehd traied end distroi the program.

94.5 inches

1. Buy or make a new shifter boot. I bought mine here: http://www.newbeetle.org/forums/show...new+shift+boot

2. Pull up on the boot so you can see the underside of the shift knob

3. There is a metal ring holding the knob onto the shaft-thingy; somehow either bend this ring or cut it or something... just to get it loose enough to slide the knob off of the shaft (god, this sounds gay)

4. Next you have to pull off the black clamp-like thing that holds the boot onto the knob; to do this just hold the knob with one hand and pull down on the boot with the other hand; it should pull the clamp off

5. Now you can pull off the stock boot

6. The bottom of the stock boot is stapled to a square plastic ring that holds it to the center console - Just undo those staples and now you're free from your old, crappy boot

7. Slip the top of the new boot onto the knob and put the black clamp back on the knob to hold the boot in place

8. Attach the bottom of the boot to the square plastic ring (for this I used a hot glue gun; worked great)

9. Stick the knob (with new boot) back onto the shaft and use a pull-tie to replace the metal ring you took off earlier

10. Place the bottom of the boot back into the center console

There is no oil filter per se, just a strainer under the sump cover that you rinse clean. It's the round cover that the drain plug screws into, about 4 or 5 inches in diameter. You will need new gaskets, they're only a buck or two.

Take a screwdriver and depress the small square in the slide beside the lever it will let the lock come loose so it can be removed.

to Change the tail and brake lights of a 2004 WV Beetle, open the truck, locate and remove the panel cover underneath the tail/break light. unscrew the black knob, which releases the light over outside the vehicle. use a thin object to lift the light cover off, be careful to not scratch your car, and you will see the tail/break light bulbs.

No, but there were: Volkswagen set up a plant in Westmoreland, PA, to produce Rabbits (later Golfs) and Rabbit Pickups. The Pickup was the only Volkswagen ever designed in the United States. They still make these and sell them outside the Americas; in the rest of the world, this vehicle is called the Caddy. They couldn't call it that here, because Caddy is slang for Cadillac and VW would get sued. The US Volkswagen plant closed in 1988. Its problem was very simple: the cars it was making weren't popular enough in the US to dedicate a whole plant to, and they didn't have technology that would let them make more than one kind of car on the same line.

They remade the '66VW Beetle in '98.See:http://www.superbeetles.com/history.htm

I have a 2001 and i use red one. 50/50. Auto zone has it for 13.99. hope this helps.

The 2000 VW Beetle headliner is held in place by a retaining strap. The retaining strap encircles the entire roof. The retaining strap has approximately 20 screws holding it in place. Remove the retaining screws and the headliner will come free.

The AC recharging port on a 1999 VW Beetle is located in the engine compartment. It is near the radiator on the passenger side of the car.

The air inlet temperature sensor on a 2003 Hyundai is found inside the plastic intake of the vehicle. The unit can be seen near the air filter box.

it could certainly be the fuel pump- as you look at the engine, it's just above and left of the crankshaft pulley, a little circular thingy on a stand. it could also be the fuel filter, the ignition system, a blockage in the carburettor or a (serious) lack of compression. hope this helps.

vw transmission 002301103 what year did it fit?