VW New Beetle

Are you sure it's the light in the dash that is not working?
It is more likely to be the e-brake switch that has gone bad or is perhaps stuck.
Try using a jumper wire to by-pass the switch to see it you get a light.
That will let you if it's the switch or something else. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

Use a code scanner to find out what's wrong with your VW.

on the right side of the car, you'll need to remove the washer fluid reservoir. On the left side you'll need to take out the battery. Once you have access, remove the rubber cover, unplug the old headlight and plug in the new one. Careful not to touch the glass part of the new bulb.. the oils on your fingers can harm the glass of the bulb

1/06/10:

UPDATE: On the left side of the car, you have to remove the battery as well as the compartment that the battery sits in. Then you have to remove the fuse panel that is attached to the left finder as it is in the way. Once you do that, you disconnect the electrical from the lamp to remove the rubber cover. Next you will need to release the clasp that holds in place the bulb to release the bulb. Once this is done, you can replace the bulb and then reassemble the parts. It was hard, especially in cold weather, but I did mine first time out the gate in about 1 hour.

Generally the brake light switch it under the dash, Follow the brake pedal arm up under the dash you should find it there. Hope This Helps.

I wouldn't. You are talking about a MAJOR engineering project and, if you don't do it exactly right, the car will be unsafe.

My recommendation is to search Craigslist for a 1969-later Bug that needs an engine and transmission, and put the ones from your car in it.

Whether you have a generator or an alternator isn't critical here, although you probably have a generator. Anyway, how I get 'em out is to remove the hood, the carburetor and intake manifold, then remove the screws that hold the fan shroud in place. Remove the fan belt, generator strap and generator wiring. Finally, grasp the fan shroud and lift it completely out of the car. After that there are four bolts holding it to the fan shroud, and one holding the fan on. Finally, there are four bolts holding the backing plate to the generator.

Usually the crankshaft is not balanced properly, but there can be any number of things that can cause this. I would talk to a mechanic, and soon, if you don't know how to check for this. By the way, most original beetles do shake a little naturally. This is due to the design (opposed four) of the engine and the firing pattern.

No it's in the front

There may be a recommended tire pressure from the factory in 1973. However, I don't think you have the original tires from 1973, so this is what you look for-

1) Look at the side wall of your tire

2) Find the tire size information (example 195/70/13)

3) Below or after that their will be a psi setting (max cold psi 32)

4) Most tires are set between 28-32 psi cold.

A 1973 Volkswagen beetle weighs under 2000 lbs so the recommended tire pressure is only around 20 psi in the front and 25 psi in the rear. It's actually a little less. Visit classicvwbugs.com for additional information.

My mechanic says it is ten gallons.

My friend i will tell you about new beetle 1.6.the oil capacity including the oil filter is 5 litres.

The 1998 VW beetle is equipped with several dashboard warning lights. The warning lights include; high water temperature, wall oil pressure, ABS braking system failure, and low battery.

Trans-fur case, front and rear differentials. Power steering fluid, Master cylinder. If it's a stright stick then check the clutch master cylinder fluid too. That should cover it.

Hello, I had our Beetle in for service and the dealer said that the Tranny was a sealed unit and I cannot checkthe fluid level.

The dealer is half right. It might be a sealed system but you can still service it. There is 2 bolts on the transmission. One near the top and one near the bottom. The top is where you fill and the bottom is where you drain. Since VW claimed that their transmission oil is lifetime no one thinks about changing it. But you should after about 60k miles depending on how well your drive the car. Its probably pitch black by now...it used to be light golden yellow ;) BTW the top bolt where you add transmission oil should be the full mark. So add until it drips out a little. when it does drip then its full. to check if you need to change the oil take your finger and dip in the whole and see what color the oil is.

if your finger is too fat then a Qtip would be good too.

The 2001 headlight unit is held in place by a lever located behind each unit in the engine compartment. Some earlier units also had a locking clip. Moving the lever down releases the complete unit that can then be withdrawn out the front of the fender. Note: Road grit and general accumulations of dirt may make this less than smooth. After removing the whole unit the headlamp bulb is accesible by unclipping the cover at the rear of the unit and removing the bulb. Replacement is usually H1 halogen type bulb - do not touch the glass with bare hands as the oils on your fingers will cause hot spots. Replacement is the opposite of removal although you may want to clean out the fender opening before replacing the light unit. Lock in place using the locking lever. On a 2006 VW beetle there is a metal tab on the inner side of the bulb housing that has to be pushed down NOT up as the housing is slid out. BUT, FIRST, you have to unlock a rod up in the front near the radiator. There is a label for lock and unlock. They are turned different depending on sides but there is a small sticker to show which way to turn it. After turning the locking mechanism till it stops,(EASILY) the push the metal tabs down slightly and push the housing forward. NOTE: DO NOT TOUCH THE NEW LIGHTS WITH BARE HANDS! USE A PAPER TOWEL! It's easy, under the hood on the headlight casing is a lever like thing, (careful it is fragile) pull the lever up or down (can't remember). Push the entire headlight casing out toward the front of the car. (The casing will hang over your bumper) Pull out the headlight and plug the new one in. Push the casing back in and lock the casing in with the lever. One note, there is some really sticky adhesive holding the light in, so you may have to push/pull hard to get it to slide out. Thank you so much for this info, it worked like a charm. By the way you pull up! Yes this does work for sure but it is kind a tuff for the first time so be patient, and make sure when pulling the light out not to pull the cover of the light it self, that is not the correct way of doing it. So make sure you pull the whole head light out. Also pull the liver up and out toward the light. Home REplacement is possible. There Is a lever for each headlight that releases the unit to slide out forward. However this slide mechanism is very tough to move the first time. Can break. Wiggle or tug until it pulls out. Second before you slide back lubricate rails with vasoline or the like don't get it on bulb. Next time it goes out slide will be easier. Also on slide back in make sure fully seated so lever locks. This may take a bit of effort/force. But be careful. We found this solution online so I share it with you!! I just replaced both headlights on a 99 beetle. German engineering my as*. What a piece of shi*. The little plastic handle the previous poster talked about is part of a ring of plastic that goes half way around the light mechanism. It has two slots that pieces of the light mechanism slide into and lock into place. Both of these little handles broke off. I think there is a little square tab that you need to push down while rotating this locking ring. Once you move the handle a little, have someone else try sliding the light out while you keep trying to move the handle. They both need to move at the same time. We ended up being able to force the plastic ring around after we broke the handle so the light would slide out, but it was extremely frustrating and very time consuming. Next time the lights burn out I will have to take it into the VW shop and pay an extravegant amount of money to have these little pieces of plastic replaced. Yes, you can fix this at home, but make sure it isn't cold (causes the plastic to be brittle) and that you take your time. Once more German engineering wins out....Smirk, Smirk. When moving the lever to release the locking collar make sure you push gently on the square piece of plastic next to the lever. This releases the 1/2 round collar that holds the headlight assembly in place. If you break the square tab out,(like I did) you can secure the lever in place after replacing the bulb by installing a small sheet metal screw next to the lever to lock it place. The locking collar didn't want to slide back in place once I got the headlight assembly back in and I had to remove the whole collar assembly and file a piece of plastic off by the lever that was rendering the collar useless. After this was done and a little vasaline was applied the collar assembly worked like a champ. Every time I work on my wife's bug I realize why I drive a Toyota and go give my truck a hug. I think that German car repair is revenge on Americans for winning WW2. I was able to get the headlight out but what a pain in the ***-I think next time I will pay the 80 bucks and take to dealer. I worked for 2 hours-had trouble with how to get light bulb out and new one installed. I drove over to auto zone and they showed me for free but he did not want any part of how to help me put the whole head light back in. I broke a plastic grey clip on the one side but nothing major-I did not break the lever-I really don't know how they expect you to remove it w/o breaking any clips at all. Maybe I'l try the vaseline thing to put it back inside. To all of those providing insight on this topic, thanks. It would have been nice to know what the locking collar device looked like ahead of time to understand how it functioned.

Things learned:

1. Check internet to hopefully find out if others have had similar problem and what remedies they came up with.

2. On this problem: After removal of headlight and replacement of bulb, wipe dust/dirt buildup off of track guides and locking collar area. Use lithium grease to lube all areas, making it easier to reinsert/lock headlight.

Note: I did not have lithium, vaseline, WD-40 etc. at the time. Tried using cooking spray and found that it worked in a pinch, though not as good as the others mentioned. Today is March 26, 2011, I just changed the right headlight on our 2001 New Beetle. This was the first time it had been changed since it was purchased in the fall of 2000. I would add to the above the following:

1. Before trying to move the lever which releases the headlight assemble, usiing a flashlight, note the perforated square area next to the lever. This needs to be depressed to release the slide mechanism which releases the headlight. I did not see it before I tried to move the lever, it must have been depressed. But I can see where I could have easily broken off the lever if it had not been. Mine would move about half the distance necessary to release the headlight. It took several (probably 30-40 ) attempts before I could get the slide to move far enough to release headlight mechanism.

2. Before replacing the assembly test the slide mechanism for smoothness of slide. Mine would hardly move, too much crap in the slide area. I removed the slide mechanism (no big deal, 3 screws), disassembled the slide mechanism, sanded down some areas of roughness between the slide pieces, lubricated the slide pieces, reassembled and installed the slide mechanism, and It worked.

Sounds like a piece of cake, but it took me 3 hours to figure it out. Hope this helps you do it in an hour or less.

This is listed in your owner's manual. For my 2001 VW Beetle, I use ethanol, and it seems to run just fine

I believe you have to go through the wheel well to access the rear plugs.Give it a try you might have to removed a plastic plug or cover.4.3 liter

its on the left side of the motor, u should see 2 sensors, the one on behind ie close to windshield is the the one.

You have to check if it is the round or square one before u get it.

Most all motorcycle have the vin number on the steering head (that is located behind the headlight or fairing. If it has a fairing it will be hard to see. If the frame is the original there should be a sticker or tag located there on one side with the numbers on it and stamped on the frame on the other side. All HONDA goldwings model are located there..

Hopefully, you've put everything together properly. Consider cleaning and regapping the spark plugs. While the plugs are out, crank the engine over for a few seconds, then pour about a half teaspoon of engine oil in through each spark plug hole.

Verify that you have spark to the plugs using a spark tester or screwdriver.

If this is a fuel injected engine, check for codes. This may hint at something left unplugged. Also verify that you have fuel pressure and check all fuses.

If carbureted, make sure your fuel bowl is full by pumping the throttle and looking for fuel squirting into primary bbl.

what is the cost to replace a battery in a volkswagen beetle 2002

The release on most of them is just the door locks. There's a pin that engages with the locks via a pneumatic pump that actuates all the other door locks. By unlocking the car, it should be free to open. If it isn't, odds are that the pin it stuck and will need to be access from within the trunk/inner fender. Hope that helps.

The drain and fill plugs need a 17mm allen wrench. There are some VW parts houses online that sell a special transmission drain/fill plug socket: it's a 17mm socket with about an inch of 17mm allen wrench stock welded into it.

If you know how to fix a car, they are: there aren't enough of them around anymore to justify having a VW mechanic in every town. Big cities have people who can work on them, but in small towns you need to know how to fix it yourself. Fortunately, they're easy to work on.

If it is for the older air cooled engines, it means you are running hot and running hot means no oil.