Alternators

A dynamo takes in motion and outputs electricity and a motor takes in electricity and outputs motion. A dynamo converts mechanical energy to electric energy while a motor converts electrical energy to mechanical energy.

If it's the 2ltr diesel it has an automatic spring loaded tensioner mounted down below the alternator. A bit tight for space down there if you need to change it.

Impossible to answer as it depends on use and abuse. Normal use will see no need to replace one on a modern car.

check for a drain on the battery. It sounds like something is drawing power from the battery all the time. Also make sure your connections are tight and clean. A lose ground wire will drain it instantly.

not fun at all, there are three bolts holding it on, maybe just two, but it has to go out the bottom of the car, hope i helped

Not hard at all. Just did it about two hours ago. the job takes about 30 minutes all together. One bolt on top and one exactly opposite it on the bottom.

Remove the negative battery cable then use a wrench to take the tension off of the belt and make sure there is a schematic on the fan shroud for the routing of the belt. If not draw one before removing it. Then take the wires off of the rear of the alt then the bolts and work it out.

The bearings might be bad in the alternator.

I just did this about a month ago. I found it best to take the radiator out of the car, it is much easier to access the bolts (4) of the alternator. You will need to get under the car and pull the lower shroud back to get to the bolt underneath. It took me approx. 3 hours.

Here is how my [http://www.themotorbookstore.com/caravan.html 94 Dodge Caravan Manual] says to do it. 3.0l Engines The 3.0L engines were equipped with either the Nippondenso or Bosch alternators. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install a 1/2 in, breaker bar in the tensioner slot. Rotate counterclock- wise to release belt tension and remove poly-V belt.
3. Remove the alternator mounting bolts (2)
4. Remove the wiring and remove alternator.
To Install:
5. Position the alternator onto the engine, then install the wiring.
6. Set the alternator against the mounting bracket and install the mounting bolts.
7. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise and install poly-V belt.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. 3.3L and 3.8L Engines
The 3.3L and 3.8L engines were equipped with the Nippondenso alternators. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the alternator drive belt, by relieving the tension on the dynamic tensioner
3. Loosen the nut on the support bracket at the exhaust manifold, do not remove it.
4. Remove the alternator tensioner/power steering bracket bolt.
5. Remove the tensioner stud nut and remove the tensioner.
6. Remove the alternator mounting bolts.
7. Remove the power steering reservoir from the mounting bracket, do not disconnect the hoses, and position it out of the way.
8. Remove the alternator support bracket bolts, Remove the intake plenum to alternator bracket bolt and remove the alternator support bracket from the engine.
9. Remove the alternator from the engine and disconnect the electrical leads.
To Install:
10. Install the alternator in position on the engine and connect the electrical leads.
11. Install the alternator support bracket, tighten the retaining bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Install the power steering reservoir on the mounting bracket.
13. Install the alternator mounting bolts, tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
14. Install the tensioner and tensioner mounting stud. Install the retaining nut on the exhaust manifold.
15. Install the alternator belt, insert a 1/2 in. extension into the square hole in the tensioner and turn the tensioner. Tighten the tensioner bolt.
16. Connect the negative battery cable. Good Luck and Remember.
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Check the fuel filter if the cars battery and alternator is good it might be the lack of fuel that is bogging the car down. My advice to you would be to check or replace the fuel filter.

I suspect you have a ground wire that was not hooked up or is not tight. Remember, The battery is separate from the engine connected by cables, the engine and trans sit on rubber mounts and the engine is connected with rubber hoses. The frame is separate for this reason. This is why grounds and cables are so important. All it takes is one bad connection. I suggest you add a additional ground wire/strap between engine and frame.

I always replace the battery when replacing a alternator. They seem to fail hand in hand. Next check the battery cables and alternator connections. Also check to make sure the belt is tight enough. If it is slipping then the alternator wont be charging the batttery correctly. It has to be one of these things. Good luck.

# Notice which pulleys the alternator belt rides on. # Remove the alternator's adjustment bolt. # Remove the alternator's pivot bolt. # Remove the alternator. # Before you can put on the new belt, you probably will have to remove someother belts which means loosening other adjustment and pivot bolts. # Place the new alternator belt on the pulleys you took note of earlier. # Put the alternator back on. # Making sure to tighten all the bolts you loosened earlier. All belts should only deflect 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Longer belts deflect more than shorter belts.

That alternator produces 136 amps.

Drive to your local auto parts store and have the electrical system checked. You can also check the output of the alternator at the battery with the engine running. You should read 13.5 to 15.5 volts with a digital DC volt meter. If it is less or more than these figures it is defective.

No it doesn't have one

No, the regulator in the alternator only regulates when the alternator is charging (alternator must be rotating).

Usually belts shred due to 1) bad or seized power steering pump or belt tensioner

2) Mis-Aligned pulleys or belt tensioner.

3) gremlins (or maybe nicked the belt during other repairs and it wore badly)

just happened to me and I replaced tensioner as mine had seized. it started making horrible squealing sounds after the repair. I replaced the pump and all was well after that.

on bottom passenger side in the front

With the engine running you should read from 13.5 to 15.3 volts at the battery with no lights or accessories on, with a nominal voltage at idle of 13.8 to 14.2, depending on temperature and battery state. Any less or more and the alternator is bad.

I've seen several pictures on differend sites that show it on the fender by the battery but mine isn't there and I have yet to find it, hope it keeps working. Sorry, I tried like crazy to find it on mine for you. Best of luck. P.S. If you find it please post the location for the rest of us.

Pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. It will have all the photos and instructions you need. It's a pretty basic job.

no you cannot kill your alternator by switching your battery from one car to another

With a 12 volt battery charger set to around 5 amps. Do not overcharge if it is not an automatic charger.

Talking from experience (about 2 hours ago) my alternator shorted out and caused the insulation on the wire to heat, and then ignite.

As i tried to make my engine bay look all pretty, the plastic hose cover i put on the wires also set on fire. Luckily i was near lots of water and had the bonnet up but if this had of happened when i was moving, or i had the bonnet down - then i think there is serious potential for this type of electrical fault to cause your vehicle to combust. Luckily my fuel line is at the other side of the car.