Alternators

The engine computer (behind the battery) is the regulator.

In order to produce electricity from any motion source (such as a windmill) you must have an electric generator to produce the power that charges the battery.

The windmill supplies the motion needed to turn the generator. The generator will produce power when the windmill is powered by enough wind to turn the generator.

The generator is connected to the battery and the power is stored by the battery. Usually, but not always, there is a regulator attached between the generator to shut the flow of electricity off when the battery has been sufficiently charged. This feature is used to prevent battery failure due to overcharging or at the very least extend battery life by optimizing the charge times.

The regulator may also detect battery drain and will turn on the current from the generator when the battery needs charging. (assuming the windmill is powered by wind and turning)

Batteries store and emit DC (direct current) and therefore usually get power directly from a generator. In some applications the windmill may generate AC (alternating current) by using an "alternator" (instead of a generator) to create power.

When that type of approach is used an additional electronic device called a "rectifier" is needed to convert the AC current to DC current in order to charge batteries -- which can only be charged by Direct Current.

In general, if the alternator is bad, then the battery becomes discharged and does not have the energy to crank the engine. The starter could also be bad, possibly damaged by the high current resulting from cranking with low voltage. That's a "bad news - bad news" situation, as high crank current can also damage the battery. Check for plate buckling, often seen as expansion of the battery case." To isolate this, you need to charge the battery with an external charger. Starting from a fully charged battery, you will quickly see if there is a battery or starter problem, or a problem with the control circuitry. Then, with the engine running, you check the charging voltage and current. The voltage should be between 13.5V and 14.5V. If it is low, you need to consider alternator or regulator, or shorted cell in the battery. See below for charging current. It is also possible that the regulator circuit is at fault, maybe caused by a blown fuse. If all looks good, you need to consider the age of the battery and its ability to hold a charge. It is also possible that a system load, such as a light being on, is draining the battery. Don't forget to check unexpected lights, such as glove box, trunk, and engine compartment. Some of these tests, charging and standby voltage, can be measured with an ordinary voltmeter, and battery charge state can be assessed by measuring the electrolyte's specific gravity. Other tests, such as crank and charge current, battery hold time, etc. are more involved and require specific equipment.

Don't know this cars specifics, but usually, if the alternator light is on in your dash (the battery symbol) it means that your alternator is not charging your battery or that your battery cannot hold a charge.

I don't know exactly how to change, but my alternator was bad and a friend of mine fixed it. It is easiest to remove the battery and four bolts attaching the plastic battery tray. Then remove the serpentine belt. This allows you to be able to take the alternator off and pull it out of the top, which is much easier than removing it from the bottom. How to actually remove the alternator, though, I don't know. But there are about 5 bolts, I think, holding it in there. I hope this helps you. I don't know if my email will show up, but I do not have an account here, and was looking at something else. If you have any more questions, feel free to email me at ryaneparsons@gmail.com Additional Info: I have a 95 GC Laredo and the alternator in mine is mounted on the top of the engine toward the front on the drivers side. First , disconnect the negative cable from your battery or you'll get on heck of a jolt when you go messing with the alternator. Second, you'll need to either remove or loosen the serpentine belt - be sure you know how to route the belt when you install the new alternator - there should be a label on the fan shroud or on the belt tensioner assembly (if you have one - if not, the belt routing is shown in most Haynes / Chilton's repair manuals). Third, Ryan is correct in that there are approximately 5 bolts anchoring the alternator in place - remove these bolts and disconnect the two wire clusters from the alternator housing. To re-install, bolt the new unit in place , connect the wire clusters, re-install the serpentine belt taking care to make sure it is routed properly and "seated" in the pulleys, and reconnect the negative battery cable. TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO IT RIGHT - the process usually takes beginners/novices about 2 hours start to finish.

The easiest and most direct route would be to first to loosen your belt tension, this should allow you to move the alternator once unbolted from its mount. Before unbolting disconnect any wiring harnesses attached to it, and take note what goes where. Once the old part is removed, always compare it to your new part to make sure that they are the same, also, if there are available part numbers, match them up as well. Once you have your new part installed and you get all of the wires hooked back up, tighten your belt back up. Once your finished, start your vehicle, and check your voltage, it should run about 13-14. Then, if you have your own scanner, scan it to make sure the new part did not throw any codes. If this is not available to you, you should take it to your local mechanic and have them check it.

Hope this helps!

There are two bearings in an alternator. One (the large one) is a standard ball bearing arrangement. The other is pretty small and is a needle bearing type. Neither are really serviceable. You would have to disassemble the alternator to do it and by the time they need it the alternator is generally shot anyway. If you are hearing a squeal from that area it probably is not the alternator anyway. It is probably the belt tensioner next to the alternator and they cannot be repaired either.

You probably blew your main fuse such as: ignition, main fuse, etc. check for blown fuses one by one underneath your dash and under your hood! Its always a good idea to disconnect your battery when ever working in the vicinity of electrical components!

The charge light responds to the battery voltage. When the battery is NOT being charged, the battery voltage is a pretty good indicator of the charge state, although temperature will change the voltage a bit. When charging occurs, the voltage jumps up for several reasons. First, the charging reaction itself. Chemicals are being changed. Second, internal battery resistance. The older and the more use, the higher the resistance will be. Third, terminal resistance. There may be corrosion between the terminal and the attaching connector. The charging current goes through these resistances and raises the apparent voltage. These voltage increases fake out the indicator. The voltage under charge is higher than it should be, saying, "I'm all charged". To bypass all of this, turn the car off and measure the voltage right at the battery terminals, with no current flowing.

Not necessarily. There are a lot of factors that can keep you from reading 14 volts at the battery, such as corrosion in the cable from the alternator to the battery.

well lets see, go back and re-examine your battery connection cables,if they are corroded that would cause that symptom.Not necessarily at battery end,but start there. I would be interested where the ground /negative wire goes to after it leaves the battery,say chassis ground or better yet Engine ground. any corrossion that puts a resistance on the charging line back to the battery. Puschase or borrow a VOM meter,put it across the battery terminals while running,should read 13 to 14 volts,not 12 or 12.5 .if voltage is low and idle is correct you still have a charging problem from alternator or a bad cell in battery pulling system down.hope this helps. oh ,by the way make sure your belts are tight and in good shape.

There isn't a "fuse" per say, but there is a fusible link. Which is a peice of wire of that a wired fuse in the middle. I have never seen one of these blow, but, anything can happen. More likely thou, your alternator died.

1. Remove the plastic air intake system which includes the air filter, 1 vacuum hose, the tube that runs to the carb, the tube that runs off to the left. There are three bolts that hold the bottom of the air filter housing on. Most of this system is a snap together assembly. Just pull it apart.

2. The alternator will have two bolts on the front bottom. The left one is a double sided bolt and the right one is a pass through bolt with a nut on the back. Stick a wrench or a short socket wrench on the nut behind the alternator and remove the pass through bolt from the front. Then remove the double sided bolt from the left side.

3. This leaves the alternator loose and being held by the belt. remove the belt from the alternator and wiggle and jiggle the alternator out of the mounting area (very tight squeeze to get it out). You can put a larger size can of fruit or something in the place of the alternator to hold the belt in place so you can remember how it looks.

4. You will need to loosen the belt tensioner to put the belt on the new alternator. Remove the can of fruit if you chose to do that but be careful to not accidentally remove the belt from the 5 or 6 different places it passes through. Place the new alternator, put in the bolts and tighten. Loosen the tensioner and put the belt on. Tighten the tensioner and adjust as needed. Replace the entire air intake system by snapping it all back together and bolting it in one piece at a time.

There are a few resons for this, usually bad wire connections or a short. It is best to take it to a mechanic that is an automotive electrician to diagnose the problem. This is the best advice on this I can give, but if something is killing your voltage regulators. Also have the alternators checked at an auto parts store, they may still be good. Check the battery and charging system, usually free at auto zone or advance. If you have a week battery the security system can drain the battery.

see this link How_can_you_tell_if_it's_your_battery_or_alternator_that's_bad

I'm a mechanic and it takes about 4 hours. if you're good you can cut that down by an hour.

It can, though it is unlikely -- the alternator and the voltage regulator would both have to be faulty. A faulty alternator will not charge a battery, though, so it may seem normal until the charge put into the battery at the store runs out.

Remove the drive belt. Remove the electrical connection, remove the alternator. OR - IS IT HIDDEN BEHIND OTHER CONPONENTS?

I had to change mine on a 1990 and it's the same for yours.

You need to always remember to disconnect the neg on the battery first.

You need to move the fly wheel just a tad so remove the belt and slide the wheel over then the rest is easy.

Good luck.

Without being more specific as regards the year and model, it is impossible to offer more than a general answer. But let's have a go. Lift the battery terminals so you can work on the electrics safely. Get some masking tape and put it on the wires connected to the alternator. Label them with numbers or something. Then make a little drawing showing where they go, and then you can take them off. This is important. Find the bolt, nut or whatever fastener allows the alternator to pivot. The alternator pivots so that belt tension can be adjusted. Loosen that guy just a bit. Then find the fastener that prevents the alternator from pivoting, and remove that. Then you should be able to remove the belt from the pulley. Pull the bolt on which the alternator pivots (the one you loosened) and remove the alternator. Hook up with an auto parts store to get a replacement. If the unit is an "oddball" and you can't find one relatively easily, call around and find a shop that rebuilds them. There may be one closer than you think. Get your new or rebuilt unit and use the reverse process to install it. You'll have to get a "pry bar" or something to put some tension on the belt before you tighten the last fastener to lock the alternator in place to hold that correct tension. Put your wires back on the way they came off, and hook your battery back up. Work safely at all times. Good luck.

I have seen this on several Catera's. The wire going to the starter and alternator gets about 170 degrees. The main started cable wire goes around in the front of the engine in a plastic condiut and then goes down the right side of the engine and goes very close to the exhaust header and then splits off to the alternator and than to the starter. It is the heat from the engine and exhaust that causes it to get so hot. I tried this on my Catera. I ran another cable the same size as the OEM cable, and ran it straight to the rear firewall and ran it over to the right side firewall, using a condiut making sure it would not short out on any metal, and then down to the starter and then to the alternator. I cut the other cable that was the original OEM, and when I did that the cable I installed never got hot again. I have never read anybody doing this but it worked for me.

No. The voltage regulator is in the engine bay on the passenger side mounted to the fenderwell. It's in front of the strut tower. It's a silver colored metal box, about 2" square. Wire harness connects to it on the bottom.

Removing the axle is unecassary. You have to remove two one bolt out of the coolant overfill container pull itup a little and out of its retaining bracket. Move out of the way. Then do the same with the steering reservoir. Then the negative wire that is mounted to the bracket below the power steering reservoir needs to be taken off and the bracket slowly and gentlty bent downwards. Behind the steering reservoir there is a black plastic cylinderical case with wire harness on top.(not sure what the thing is called part of the ac unit) Take off the two bolts securing this and move to the side. Now if you havent already done so remove neg on battery put car on jacks and remove the drivebelt. The alternator has to sets of wires going to it on on the side and one on the back. remove both. Take out the two retaining mount bolts at the front of the alternator and you should now have proper clearance. Take care when lifting out. its a good idea to turn it side ways before lifting it out. Akright I hope that this answers the question and is not vague like the the first one. Remove the axle Huff* Dude you got to be a boob

Go to autozones site and print the instructions