Alternators

Remove the belt from your 1993 Chevy G 20 alternator. Remove the alternator wiring harness. Remove the retaining bolts from the alternator. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.

With the car or truck running disconnect only the positive side of the battery ... if it stays running that means the alternator is good if it dies then it needs replacing

go to auto zone.com,enter vehicle info and look up alternator and click on repair guide to right of screen and it will show and tell you how.

If bearings go bad they will "squeal"

It will start if the battery is fully charged. But you will soon (in less than an hour in most cases) end up with a dead battery requiring you to have the vehicle hauled to the garage anyways.

The year, engine size and type are critical to being able to accurately answer your question. If you are mechanically inclined, I would suggest you purchase a relatively inexpensive repair manual and follow the steps outlined. I've been working on my own vehicles for over 40 years and I still purchase a Chilton's repair manual or equivalent before I start working on a different vehicle that I bought. A step by step guide is invaluable.

you have two bolts holding the alternator in the front.Unplug the wire harness and the undo the positive battery lead. Before you do this you must disconnect the positive battery cable.

To access the alternator from under the hood:

1. Detatch neg battery lead. (keeps the fan from operating!)

2. Unplug the 2 sensors from the air intake manifold.

3. Remove air intake manifold & short hose leading from it

4. Undo fasteners for fan shroud & remove it, being careful when working it free of the radiator hoses. A socket wrench with extension, knuckle, and 10mm socket will do the trick.

5. Now the alternator is (somewhat) accessible. Loosen the belt tensioner and undo the alternator bolts as in the above answer.

i think the regulator is right in the alt.

Removal

Disconnect the battery cable.

Remove the accessory drive belt from the generator pulley.

Remove the power steering line bracket and heater hose support bracket from the generator.

Remove the upper generator bolts.

Partially raise the vehicle on a hoist.

Remove the right front wheel.

Remove the lower fender splash shield retainers and position the shield out of the way.

Remove the generator splash shield.

Raise the vehicle.

Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the battery cable from the generator.

Position an adjustable stand to the subframe.

Remove the right subframe bolts.

Remove the lower generator bolts.

Lower the subframe to provide clearance.

Remove the generator.

Installation

Note: Do not tighten the lower bolt.

Install the generator and the lower bolt.

Raise the subframe and install the subframe bolts. Tighten the bolts to 90 Nm. ( 66 lb ft. ) .

Remove the adjustable stand.

Lower the vehicle.

Install the upper generator bolts and tighten them to 25 Nm. ( 18lb ft. ) .

Install the power steering link bracket and the heater hose support bracket. Tighten the nut to 20 Nm. ( 15 lb ft. ) .

Install the accessory drive belt.

Partially raise vehicle.

Tighten the lower generator bolt to 25 Nm. ( 18lb ft. ) .

Connect the generator electrical connector.

Install the battery positive B+ cable and nut. Tighten the cable nut to 10 Nm. ( 89 lb in. ) .

Install the generator splash shield.

Install the fender splash shield and the retainer.

Install the right front wheel.

Lower the vehicle.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Battery light usually means alternator not charging. Most common solutions would be be a bad alternator, bad connection, or loose alt belt.

Also check that the belt is routed correctly - I found a wrong way to route the belt and had similar symptoms.

See "Related Questions" below for routing diagram sources

Battery light usually means alternator not charging. Most common solutions would be be a bad alternator, bad connection, or loose alt belt.

bad connection or starter solenoid

In the Power Distribution Box in your engine compartment , which is " live " Ford recommends disconnecting your battery cables before servicing anything in the PD BOX - fuse # 14 is a 30 amp mini-fuse for the Generator / Voltage Regulator according to the owners manual

The voltage output is controlled by the voltage regulator. Check to see if you are getting a DC field voltage. On the voltage regulator there are terminals to different pieces of equipment on the machine. Look for the terminals that are designated F1 and F2. These should have a DC voltage on them. Also look for a potentiometer that controls the field voltage. Turn it one way and the voltage will go down and turned the other way the voltage will go up. Make sure that this potentiometer is in the correct position to allow voltage to the field coils.

it will take more electricity to run the alternator than the alternator can produce to drive the motor. the inefficiency is caused by waste heat, friction in the bearings and drive connection. it a law of thermodynamics that a closed system can't produce more energy than it consumes. the difference (how much electricity) depends on the overall design, and whether or not it exists in a weightless vacuum at near absolute zero temperature. Both conditions can increase efficiency. some other conditions might be whether the mechanism was designed by cavemen, or hypothetical CAD software that balances a thousand variables in a split second to maximize efficiency of the materials employed. if near 100% efficency is achieved, it would still be a useless machine because it could only run itself.

The Alternator is held by "two bolts" located at the top(12mm) and bottom (14mm). Remember to disconnect positive side of battery. First loosen 10mm nut that holds positive cable at back top of the alternator, then unplug wire harness on back. Second remove the 12mm bolt at top form the back. Third remove 14mm bolt at bottom form front. When you remove these bolts you should be able to loosen and pry out with a flat screw drive.

Your pulley system that controls the motion of the belt and the tighness will either consist of 4 or five pulleys, with the Alt, being of course at the top. the very bottom pulley that likey can only be reached from under th car, should be your compressor pulley, the one in the middle, between the alt. and the compressor, should be your water pump with its pulley. Using the process of elimination, you can find out that there will be a pulley left, this is the belt tensioner pulley. It has a bolt in the center of it, it may be either 5/8 or 15 mm. This can be fitted with a wrench, or if you are lucky, a ratchet, and then turned as if you were loosening it, you will see the alt , pull up and it will be tightened this way, you may also want to apply some belt dressing. if this doesn't help , the belt may be squealing for another reason, such as the water pumb may be getting ready to go out or the compressor pulley may be getting loose.

13-15 volts, depends on what the computer wants.

If you look at it real close. You will see it stamped into the alternator.

Most cars and trucks today have what is called a serpentine belt which runs most accessories.They are very dependable and usually easy to replace. To decide if your belt needs replacing, simply look at the grooved side of the belt to see if it is cracking badly. A couple of cracks every 3 inches is normal, but if you see cracks every 1-2 inches I would recommend that you replace it. On most cars and trucks the procedure is basically the same. First off, get the correct belt by bringing your cars VIN number to the parts store(located on your cars dashboard) the parts store may need it. If there are two choices, get them both so you can complete the repair. Once you have the correct belt, take a minute to review how the belt runs across the pulleys and also check to see if your car/ truck has a underhood diagram of belt routing in case you need it. In most cases you will need a socket wrench or breaker bar with either a 3/8" and /or 1/2" head on it and possibly a short extension. Some models may require a wrench of these similar sizes.Now that you are ready to go to work, you will need to find the spring loaded tensioner which is generally located near the top of the belt path; it usually has a shinny pulley on it. Look at the tensioner and insert the tool into it and apply opposing pressure to release the belt.Now, simply install the new belt making sure it fits into the grooves on all the pulleys. Start the car to check it and you are done and you saved yourelf some money!

I used to have a 2002 Kia Spectra LS and I have replaced my alternator myself. I will suggest you pray first because it is a little tricky thing to do. Do the following through the passenger side of the engine bay of course with the hood up. First and most important is to disconnect the negative connection to the battery (driver side). Using a 12mm socket loosen the tension adjusting screw and bracket screw. Using a 10mm socket or open end remove wirings. Pinched other connector to remove. Using 14mm socket with 3/8 drive ratchet remove the big bolt on the lower side of the alternator. You might need some help from a pipe for extra leverage. Remove all parts that will hinder the removal of the alternator.For example the charcoal cannister on the firewall just slide up. AC lines may be in the way. If you have AC, also dismount the cruise control cable, remove the canister bracket, remove the ground wire from the intake manifold, and unbolt the AC line bracket from the fender. In order to ease the alternator through the opening by turning the alternator until it can pass through the opening, I offer the following". Face the pulley up, and the bracket ears oriented frontward and back. I had the Battery connector to the back, and succeeded, but not without hanging up a bit. I am not trying it again, except sending he new one the other way round. If you have AC, you'll be wedging it a little this way and a little that way. The nub for the ground wire screw on the manifold is a key sticking point. This info came from kia - forums . com

That's it.

Installation of the replacement is just the opposite. Do not over tighten the alternator belt for it will ruin you bearings prematurely. Should be able to deflect 1/4 of an inch with slight pushing pressure against the belt downwards.

I am pretty sure that this is the same for a 3.8L as it is for the 3.3L below.

The most important point here is that on a 3.3L engine it has to come out underneath. The main secret the store manuals don't tell you is that you have to remove the one bolt that holds the flexible rubber exhaust clamp to the middle of the body underneath; you can now push on the exhaust in the middle and this will allow it to flex over enough to barely be able to remove the alternator between the body and the exhaust. As an additional measure for removal room, i removed the three metal nuts that hold the catalytic converter heat shield in place under the passenger floor pan. Everything else is pretty standard; remove battery cable, take off wire connectors, use breaker bar with socket to unload tension on serpentine belt pulley & belt comes right off, two bolts from underneath for metal guard, lastly two bolts for the alternator. Just a final tip, make sure to use the new nuts that come with the rebuilt alternator & be very careful not to over tighten the wire connections; unfortunately, I've found the replacement metals they use are softer than the original and it takes nothing to twist off a connector, especially an old dirty nut reused.

One to two hours tops.