Alternators

Something is causing a drain on the battery even with the vehicle off and nothing turned on. A good mechanic can do a drain test on the battery to see what may be draining the charge.

A dead cell in the battery itself will also cause the battery to go dead. Disconnect the negative battery cable overnight and if the battery is dead the next morning it has a dead cell and must be replaced. If not look for a light that is on or a relay that is stuck.

NOTE:To gain access to the alternator it may be necessary to disconect the left drive shaft from the steering knuckle * Disconnect the negative battery cable.Raise vehicle support it securely on jackstands and remove the left driveaxle from the steering knuckle * Detach the wire harness from the alternator * Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot bolt nut then detach the drivebelt * Remove the adjusting and pivot bolts and separate the alternator from the engine.If necessary remove the upper and lower mount brackets * Installation is reverse of removal

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I am not sure what you are talking about. the bolts that hold the alternater to the front cover are a real pain to install the lower one is almost impossible. I put mine on yesterday and it was very hard to turn a 10 mm openended wrench I could not see the bolt and could only turn it about a 1/8 turn at a time flipping the wrench over between turns. If the distributer adjusting bolts won't go down all the way you might not have it aligned with the oil pump. I hope this helps Mark I just installed one yesterday. Leave the two mounting bolts threaded but loose. Lift up and pull back on the alternator and thread the adjusting bolt. Use a socket wrench to tighten. If you're refering to the piece of metal that connects to the top of the alternator and the engine you can adjust it by loosening the bolt attached to the engine to adjust it's position.

disconnect negative side of battery, remove air filter and entire assembly, it pulls up off pegs. Remove the 7 bolts that hold upper half of fan shroud assembly, they are 10mm i think. Move top radiator hose up and toward you to get it off the formed holder for it, pull fan shroud up and off vehicle. Take an 3/8" extension without a socket on it and find square hole it fits right into below idler/tensioner where belt will be at your extreme left facing motor. Add the ratchet and a pipe over it for leverage and pull and belt will come off. There's 2 bolts on front bottom and one bolt on backside you'll have to go inside and remove doghouise to get to. Couple of electrical connections back there. Couple hours if you fool around with it.

I just did mine about 3 days ago. The serpintean belt must be tooken off first, under the car remove the guard, the black piece of plastic in the front right. once thats done, there is a pulley that the serpentian belt is attached to. Look at diagram below>

Serpentian belt diagram:
--- and | | | is belt. ALT is altinator. Adj is tension pulley that you must pry toward altinator to create slack. (note: in order to do this you must jack up car, and go under.)

_
ALT---------------------------|()|
| |
| |
----------------_ |
---------------Adj |
| |
|_ _|
|()|--------------------------|()|


Once you pry the Adj and create slack take the belt off. Next you must unscrew all screws on altinator including the wires attached to it. There is a wire attached on the back were it kinda clips off, and one that is screwed in it for the curren on the sidet.. Daewoo's shittie design makes it so you have to actually climb under the car on jack, and take off the altinator mounting bracket screws under the altinator. Once this is done remove the altinator my taking it under the car, it should drop off when you remove the mounting screws. It should kinda slide out, but you have to work it around the exhaust. Take the altinator out, then replace it with a new one. Put the mounting screws on first while holing it with one hand. then put everything back together. Put the serpentian belt on the same way you took it off. NOTE: its quite a bit harder to put the belt back on. I used a wrenche to pry it loose then slid the belt on. Its is very hard to pry, especially with one hand and the belt in the other. But shouldn't be to hard if your strong. then reconnect the battery, and Bam there yah go. To test it take off one battery terminal while the car is on, if it still runs. you did it.

Disconnect bat

Loosen bolt in slot that will allow it to swing back & forth

Disconnect wires from back

Remove from bracket

Reverse to install.

If you have serpentine belt vs dedicated, just pry against the spring loaded idler pulley to slip off belt. if dedicated belt just slip on, pry on alt to hold belt tension & tighten.

bad solenoid...will usually click up a storm when you turn on the ignition.

$350

Yes, all modern cars have alternators.

Immediately disconnect cables but leave car running for at least fifteen minutes

Defective alternator.

My son has been trying to remove my 6-cylinder Hyundai Sonata for 4 hours. He just got it - you have to pull the motor mount and jack the engine. OR take it to your local mechanic and save yourself the hassle.

For 5.0L V8 engine. 1. Disconnect battery. For safety, cover the + & - battery metal connectors with a rag so they don't short out. 2. Place a 1/2" drive ratchet into the belt tensioner and rotate counter-clockwise. Remove belt from alternator. 3. Disconnect wire attached to the back of the alternator it's held on with a nut (you may have to remove rubber boot first). 4. Disconnect power plug going into alternator, it's held on with a clip. 5. Remove the bracket nut (not sure what size) on the back of the alternator. Remove the (2) torx bits (not sure what size) in front of the alternator. Remove alternator. Note: If you don't have Torx bits, try to get Torx bits that attach to a ratchet; this will aid in removal & installation. 6. When installing new alternator, start with Torx bits first, then the bracket nut (don't fully tighten the Torx bits or the bracket nut until they are hand tight, then tighten as normal. Install the wire that connects to back of alternator, then the power plug. Reattach belt. Good Luck!!

It depends what you consider to be a "slow drain" the parasidic load on this vehicle will discharge a FULLY charged battery in 21 days. How new is the battery and what state or charge is it in? Have you checked the Alternator? Like most batterys in cars, trucks, ect, they tend to get dirty. A slow battery drain is more than likely caused by a short between your +/- posts. To check this, attach one lead of a low volt meter the + post of the battery, and then draw the other lead across the top of the battery. If the meter shows any voltage at all, that's the problem. Wash the battery with a mixture of backing powder & water, and rinse. Dry the area between the posts & check with the meter again. I've often seen (online) that there is a problem with the load-leveling system which causes this....Here's a page which discusses this:

About 2 hours if you have all the tools. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Make it a little easier and remove the air box ( goes from the air cleaner across the engine. Then remove the Belt. Most of them have three bolts. One is in the back and is a 13MM all I can say is you have to feel for it. IT is low at about the 5 oclock position looking from the front. Next take out the one in the front that is also a 13MM. Then Grab a 15MM and get the big bolt that goes thru from the back at around the 10 oclock. As you take this bolt out hold on. and you can turn the alternator so you can get the main wire ( 1/2" ) unbolted. also unplug the red wire from the alternator. The wiggle it up and out of the car. Then just reverse the process and your done. Really not a big deal at all.

The fuse is located in the Power Distribution Center under the hood. The factory manual shows the location to be "GEN" in the diagram. It's a 140 amp bolt in type fuse. Most of the time the fuse will blow when the oil filter touches the power post of the alternator while changing the filter.

Is it the correct alternator for your vehicle? What are you working on? If you add a little more detail to your question I'm sure it will be simple to answer but we don't even know what you're working on.

To check the alternator to see if it is putting out the proper voltage you will need a digital DC voltmeter. Set the voltmeter on the 20 V scale and start the engine. Test at the battery Black to positive, Red to negative. You should read from 13.5 to 15.5 V DC. If you get more or less than this reading your alternator is suspect. Drive the car to your local auto parts store where they will check the alternator and your charging system for free.

Buy a one wire hook up alternator and route about a 10ga wire from its output terminal to your battery positive or to fuse block, use a piece of fusible link or a circuit breaker rated about the same as your new alternator.

Yes and no. Yes: The alternator will charge the battery any time the engine is running (even at idle) if the battery's voltage is below the threshold (usually around 12 volts) so that the voltage regulator triggers the alternator to generate power (around 14 volts) until the battery is charged up. No: If there is not enough consumption of power, the battery may be charged enough and the voltage regulator will not trigger power generation.

Auto Salvage yards.

I have a more significant question, why are you replacing perfectly good parts?

Throwing random parts at a problem does not tell you what's wrong. You need to check individual subsystems to find out why your car isn't running.

It's always down to the basics, ignition, fuel and compression. If you have all three, and in the right sequence and intensity, the engine MUST run; there are no other options. So to find out why it's NOT running, find out which of the three isn't right.

That's where a mechanic becomes a bit of a diagnostician.

If you want a car to run you don't just open the hood and start replacing random parts.

The unit will run but you may get shocked by touching it, now or sometime in the future.