Alternators

we will be out out of coil wire

Look for a picture in one of the service manuals, Chilton's, Haynes or the factory service manual.

You could also look up the part at an on line auto pars stores such as Autozone or Kragens, they usually have a picture.

It's located on the end if the main power wire coming off the alternator. This wire connects to the starter. The fusible link is located on the starter end of the wire.

Hook up a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the vehicle with nothing on. You should get a reading from 13.50 to 15.0 volts. Perfect setting is 14.2. A higher reading tends to overcharge the battery and a lower setting doesn't charge the battery fully. Turn a fair amount of stuff on (headlights and heater, etc.) speed the engine up and see if voltage remains between 13.5 and 15.0 volts. This shows that the alternator is keeping up with demand and alternator is working good.

15 millimeter and/or 13mm.

It depends on the engine...if its carbuerated it will last usually long enough to get you 3 or more miles using the power from the battery, fuel injected much less.because newer cars power fuel pump, injectors . also depends if alternator and water pump are using same belt. but usually car would overheat before it ran out of juice. not far. as soon as the battery goes dead, so will your car

I'm not a mechanic, but basically... A distributor sends electricity to the spark plugs so they can fire and push the pistons. An alternator takes the mechanical energy from the running motor and uses it to recharge the battery.

Yes. The vehicle they were installed in (and the options the vehicle had) would dictate the size/capacity of the alternator that was used.

Clean it out!! water will not hurt an alternator but Antifreeze will breakdown the varnish on the Stator windings! Oils is bad but Antifreeze is worse.

yes

There are several GM alts that can be converted. Later model units will each need A wiring diagramn. If you are using the '75 and up to the mid '80's alt. It has one large lug on the back that has A nut on it. This is for the charge to the battery, There are two spades side by side on the side near the back. You will need to connect A wire to the one farthest from the battery lug and connect the same wire to the battery lug. The spade that is left will need to go to the extra post on the starter, the one that is NOT for the solinoid wire. I know this sounds confusing, If you can't figure it out after reading it A couple times, Contact me in my message board.

Could be the starter.

no charging

I have a 1999 Lumina LTZ and the the power steering reservoir was impossible to find. Much like the other components in this monster 3800 engine like the battery hidden under the washer fluid....the power steering reservoir is located underneath the alternator. Be careful that when you remove the cap you don't get debris from the top into the reservoir.

Dealer?

Salvage Yard?

First you need to remove the radiator to get to it. Once you remove the radiator you have room to work. Second take the top bolt off the alternator and then the long bolt, do not forget to take the belt off the alternator before remove the it. I just changed on about two days ago on a 2004 Nissan quest for a friend.

The alternator output voltage in most modern 12 volt automotive systems ranges from 13.5V to 14.5V, with the nominally accepted value being 13.8V. The actual voltage depends on battery charge state and temperature.

FR would be, and I quote "Field signal to car-computer".

This signal consists of one (field) phase for timing reference...

By the way, L is your control-lamp on the dashboard, S is a reference current (Sense) and IG is indeed ignition...

I just did this job on my '95 Achieva about a week ago (“rear” is toward read of car; “front” is toward front of car): 1. Remove the negative cable from your battery (I usually remove the positive one, too) 2. You will need a long thin breaker bar with a 3/8-inch socket head. This is used to move the spring loaded serpentine belt tensioner. I had to make one but the better supplied auto stores have them. The square socket head goes into a square hole in the tensioner. Once you have the square head firmly seated in the tensioner, move your breaker bar toward the rear of the car. This will create enough slack to get the belt off the alternator pulley. Slide the belt out of the way and slowly allow the breaker bar to swing back toward the front of the car. (whew!) DON’T remove the breaker bar from the tensioner. 3. Remove the small plastic cap that covers the small screw post on the back side (away from the pulley) of the alternator. This will expose a 10 mm? nut that holds a small wire with an eyelet to the post. There are also a couple of lock washers. Don't lose these. (If you look at your new alternator, you will see the post is marked "BATT" or "BAT"). 4. Remove the bolt (15 mm head?) from the front alternator mount....this is the easy one! It threads into a “formed” shaft which is attached to a stud coming out of the engine case. Remove the nut on this stud and fully remove the formed steel shaft. 5. Take a deep breath….and maybe a drink of your favorite beverage. 6. The rear mount is the bear. A long bolt passes through the alternator mount, then though the alternator, then through a weird little bracket to which a bunch of wiring harnesses and a metal tube are all connected. There is a 13? mm nut on the back of this collection, and it is hard to reach because of the plastic bracket. I got to this nut via a long set of socket extensions and a u-joint extension; long enough to bypass the obstructions in the way. 7. There is also a formed (bent) metal bracket that this above assembly attaches to and is fastened at the back of the alternator. Remove the nut that attaches it to the alternator. Don’t drop any of these little fasteners! I usually stuff a rag beneath where I’m working to catch these little critters in case I drop one! (Whew!) 8. OK, the alternator should now be loose enough to carefully rotate it out of the mounting area and thus allow you to remove the electrical connections. 9. Lift it out of the way. Note that there are a couple of other unrelated electrical connections that may be in your way as you try and remove the fasteners from the back of the alternator. Disconnect them to give yourself some extra room….just remember to re-connect them! 10. Like they say in the books: “Installation is the reverse of removal” and essentially that’s true. Just take your time and work carefully. Remember the small wire to the alternator post labeled “BATT”. The nut the end of the rear mount bolt is a real pain to get started since it’s one of those self-locking nuts and is tight when started. 11. Once the alternator is installed, the breaker bar can be moved toward the rear of the car to allow enough belt slack to slip it over the alternator pulley. Now slowly release the breaker bar to allow the tensioner to create…..well, tension! Remove breaker bar. 12. Reconnect the battery. After I had the whole job done, I fired up the car and the alternator gauge still read low…..Guess who forgot to reconnect the main wiring harness plug to the alternator socket!?! Ok…one more time….. All said and done, the entire job (even with the re-connection just mentioned!) took about an hour and a half. Good luck!!

v4, it should be on top according to the manual. mine is a v6 and its on the bottom.

The problem could be in the steering column. Sometimes the pins holding the wiring harness come loose and this stops the connection. Take the cover, from around the column, off. Four phillip head screws hold it together. The screws are located on the bottom of the cover. Pull the top cover off and check the harness. If the pins are loose, take a hammer and tap the Phillips screwdriver on the top of the pins until they tighten up. Hope this works.

You can go to any AutoZone or other related store and pick up a Haynes repair book. it will give you step by step instructions on how to replace the alternator and more.

The alternator is located on the back of the engine near the firewall (and windshield) on the passenger side, down near the bottom.

yes if you can find a dealer who sells one

its located on the passenger side under the battery